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HKS GD Pro Twin Clutch Type K - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #12724 69 posts Started by Magic
Hi Magic....

Hey.. 500km is not that far... >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif>

Advan Neova is the top grade tyre for Yokohama. It is a soft compound tyre.
The grip will be great, but will also wear out faster. I think you can check the ratings on TireRack.

C-One front Lip.... Absolutely agreed with Spunky393. I love it too!!!



Hi Spunky393...

Light flywheel is not only for racing, it can be street used for a little more enjoyment as well. I don't do car racing, by the way. I just love to enjoy my everyday drive. >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif>

For you, who like to shift at high RPM, it would be a nice toy to experience.

A friend of mine installed a light weight flywheel to his 3S-GE and said it was useless and a waste of money... >frown.gif>
His gear shifting habbit is less than 4000 RPM !!! So, the need to fly RPM up is not there....

If you love riding on high RPM and fast shifting, then a good aftermarket clutch set + flywheel would provide great fun.

For me, my twin clutch is my everyday enjoyment. I would never go back to stock clutch and flywheel.




Lar- and spunky393

Guys i`m talking about this front clip,my car is black..........

user posted image

I`m checking now the TireRack but i have already order them >rolleyes.gif>

>biggrin.gif>

Hi Magic,

That front lip is great, i wouldn't mind it at all, around here we don't exactly have the best ground clearance. I like it, go for it Magic.

The most important lesson I learned from Karate-Dô Kyôshan–“You can not be what you do not believe you are”
Yeah... it's beautiful.

Can you believe it, I simply can't find anyone who can order C-One parts for me.
I really don't know why it is so difficult!!!

There are a few C-One parts that I would really like to get hold of.

spunky393

Thanks i think i`ll go for it:) It should be nice on Black GT4:)Havent seen it but i think it will be nice besides i dont have too many to choose:(

Lar-

Tell me and i can get the C-one parts and ship them for you:)
With the clutch i`m still waitin but i think maybe is something wrong with the installation can sometimes when i shift a little fast "sometimes" i smell the clutch smell...>frown.gif>......you think that it needs time???
NO!!! Your clutch doesn't need anymore time. Your clutch needs to be rechecked.
I think your clutch disk surface has already burnt a little.
For newly installed clutch... a little shaking is ok, but not smell.
Don't wait too long to have your mechanic recheck your clutch.

Burnt clutch = Slipped clutch.


Thank you so much for offering to help me order and ship the C-One parts. I really appreciate your kind gesture.
I think you can just inform me where can I order or who can I talk to about getting the C-One parts and I can take it from there.
I really don't want to bother you with all the ordering and shipping stuff.

Lar-

Thank you for your help.
What do you mean "Slipped clutch"???You mean my clutch disc left of the place??
The truth is that i smell it 1-2 times while i was driving it.
I will find another mechanic to check my clutch cuz this one its out of subject. >mad.gif>
About the C-one parts email me at magikos7@hotmail.com and i can give you details from a guy that i think he can help you.
Hi Magic...

Sorry to confuse you. I was meaning "slippery clutch".

You won't feel the slippery effect right now as your clutch disc is still new, but if you continue to drive with your clutch smelling like this, soon you will see that when you change a gear and rev up.... your car would not gain speed as fast as usual.

I will e-mail you. Thank you so much. >smile.gif> >smile.gif>

Hey Lar-

The truth is that i didnt ride my car more than 40kms since i replaced my clutch!!!
Hmmm I will drive it a little more and i let u know.
I asked a lot of guys about the clutch and they all have the same symptoms!!!!Hmmmm maybe its my idea:)
Feel free to email to me:)
Hi Magic...

Hmmm... Smell coming from clutch or brakes is always not a good thing.
Please keep me posted about your clutch...

>smile.gif> >smile.gif>
Lar-

I ll keep you inform about my clutch:)
I`v seen a post later about engine failures and i want to ask you something,i`m running my car 1.1 bar what do you think??its safe for stock internals??And with my upgrades?Any recommended upgrade for this kind of boost?

Thnx pal
Hi Magic...

I discussed your clutch situation with my mechanic. He said that it's ok for newly installed clutch to smell a couple of times or for a very short period of time. He also advise not to do any hard launching for the moment.
Be gentle to your clutch for a while ok.... >tongue.gif> >tongue.gif>

The max claimed boost for our engine(stock internals) is 1.16 bar. You can do 1.1bar, but don't hold it for too long.
Can your boost comtroller be set for Lo boost and Hi boost ??

For myself, I only set 0.8bar Lo boost and 1.0bar Hi boost. I really don't want to stress the engine too much.

By the way, what are your upgrades??
Also. can your TTE ECU be remapped or reprogramed again??

Just remember these basic elements for power;
Air <-> Fuel <-> Fire... They have to go along side one another. You can't just change any one of them and hope for more power.

Cheers.... >wink.gif> >wink.gif>

Lar-

Thank you for asking your mechanic about my clutch!!!so we are at normal levels!!!!:)GREAT!!!!
I`m running 1.1 bar but not for long!!!
Yes my boost control has lo and high boost but i`m confused about it,can you help(again??)..hehehehe I`m very happy with the boost levels but for the moment.
Ehmmmm my upgrades are just the basics(Intake,exhaust,downpipe,sparkplug,boost controller,ECU)....
I think it can be remmaped the TTE ECU but i`m not happy with it,i`m looking for something really good,any suggestions about ECU?I`m thinking about JUN cuz Mr.Koyama is coming very often in Cyprus. Koyama(JUN Tuner)


Thanks
You can try playing with the Lo Hi boost setting functions. It's quite simple.

Select Lo mode then set the amount of boost that you want, for me it's 0.8bar.
Select Hi mode then set the max boost that you want, you can input 1.1bar.

When you are in Lo mode, the max boost you will get is 0.8bar. You can use Lo while you're crusing or driving in the city. This helps the engine to relax a bit.

You can switch to Hi mode(1.1bar) when you are on an open road and want more kicks from the engine or when there a honda reving beside you... haa.. haaa..

There are a lot of Stand Alone ECUs that you can play with.
A few brands that I can think of right now.....
MoTec, HKS F-ConV Pro, Haltec, Autronic, Apexi Power FC.....

Apart from any good ECU is a good Tuner. If you can get hold of Koyama to tune your GT-4 for you, this would be superb!!!! I think will use the HKS F-ConV Pro on your GT-4.

One suggestion....
If you really want Koyama to tune your car, get ready to upgrade your engine internals. It wouldn't worth the money and time if Koyama would tune max boost your car to only 1.2bar. Your internals should at least be ready for a 1.5bar or 1.8bar even.

Cheers...
Lar-

Thank you for that time you spending on me!!!!
Thank you for the information about the Boost control,i will play with it later:)
If i am running without ECU just the boost controller what is safe to run??What boost?Cuz NOW i`m running with stock ECU.

I think Koyama will come again at the end of the year,far away but i think they can remapped my ECU with JUN Setup and send it to me and when Koyama come back he will make the "fine tuning".

The truth is that with 1.1 bar i`m VERY HAPPY!!!I like the boost and especially for daily driving i dont think that i need something more than that for the moment so i want to be safe on 1.1 bar.Do you know about the ERL Water System??

Thanks
Hello Magic....

How's the Lo Hi boost setting.... ??

You can do your 1.1bar boosting with the stock ECU... no problem with fuel cuts.
What happen to your TTE ECU ?? You sent it for remapping already ??

Do you mean ERL water injection system ?? Honestly, I not sure if you really need one. I am always against having water going into the combustion system.

Do you have any "Engine Knocking" problem??
I don't think your intake air temperature is that high(hot) to the point where you need to cool it.

What's the weather temperature in Cyprus ?? Is it hot over there ??
The average temperature in my country is 34 - 37 degree Cel or 93.2 - 98.6 Far.

Alternative choices to ERL water injection system...
1. Swap to FMIC.
2. Go for Nos. >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif>



Lar-!!

I put the low boost 0.8 and the hi boost 1.1 What do you think??Its safe on stock ECU and stock internals?
For the moment i`m running with stock ECU i will send TTE to HELL >thumbsdown.gif> i will tell you the reasons later but TTE its not in my car and i`m running for now on with stock ECU.I`m really thinking of MR.koyama(JUN ECU) but i dont want to upgrade my internals for the moment >mad.gif> (money) >biggrin.gif> but i`m thinking to get something that i can use later with the internals upgrade:)

Our temperature during the summer season is 38-42 Cel for the moment is 30!!!
I dont think about the intercooler for the moment cuz i`v seen GT4 with stock Chargecooler to run more than 400hp!!!
NOS its too far:) >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif>


Hi Magic...

Reduce the Hi boost to just 1.0bar, just be on the safe side.
1.1bar is quite marginal although Toyota claimed that the internals can hold up tp 1.16bar(max boost).

Hey.. It's like burning over there, man... 38 - 42 Cel !!!!

By the way, could tell me more about the Stock ChargeCooler??
I read about it quite sometime ago, but I'm still not fully sure how ChargeCooler works. Thanx... >wink.gif> >wink.gif>
Hello Lar-

Actually i`m driving most of the time on low-boost now but i will reduce the boost to 1.0 bar.

Yes its really hot here during the summer >mad.gif> >mad.gif>

About the Chargecooler Toyota decide to use the chargecooler cuz of the high temperature at many countries that they using hosting the WRC.The chargercooler is an air-to-water intercooler that is using cold water pumping it from a separate unit and charge the engine with cold air.From that its easy to understand the choice of Toyota to stay with chargecooler cuz if they want to having all the time cold air for the engine they only have to replace the hot water from the water supply unit(like radiator) or with some liquids that they can stand to hot climates.
The chargercooler has many advantages like install it anywhere you want in the engine(not like Intercoolers that they must be in front of the car to have direct air from the outside).
That’s a reason that i’m not thinking for the Intercooler cuz i`v seen many GT4s running on stock chargercooler for more than 400hp!!!!

If you need more information about how the chargecooler works i have many good articles if you want to have a look on them, just let me know:)
Hey Mike,

Good info. All this time i was hearing people telling me that the chargecooler of the Celi is useless and i should put a fmic. Now that i know i will just disregard them as i understand they are ricers and like the fmic because it looks good.

btw, if we remove the insulation and things are a bit cooler in the engine bay, does this mean that the chargecooler will also be cooler and will this improve power?
what do you think?
Neoklis:)

Of course the FMIC looks great on every racing car >tongue.gif> but you dont need it for the moment,you have to go for BIG Upgrades(Bigger Turbines) to get FMIC.
We have few GT4 from the club that they removed the insulation and i think its better to remove it during the summer season but i think our hood and the bumper help a lot about the incoming air,you think we should try it??? >tongue.gif>
i cannot imagine hot !!! air escaping throught my gt four s opened bonnet vent to be trapped under bonnet. specially its bigger proplem when running in city with low speed.
and... with removed insulation turbo & and bov sounds much nicer >wink.gif>

This post has been edited by tufy: Jun 11, 2004 - 5:57 AM
-tufy+Jun 11, 2004 - 10:41 AM
Neoklis,

Try it and let me know ok? >biggrin.gif>
Neoklis,

>biggrin.gif> I dont care about the sound really i want to know what is going with the performance:)
Hi Magic, Neoklis and Tufy...

I had my insulation removed a long time ago and the engine ventilation really improved a lot....
Our hood grill is directly above the turbo and exhaust header, hot air always rises.
Without the insulation; the very hot air, heated by the exhaust header and turbo, would directly escape upwards through the top grill.
This is actually great for driving in the city with slow traffic. Your engine compartment would be a lot less heat soaked.

Magic... It would be a great info if I can take a look at the ChargedCooler articles..
Thanx... >biggrin.gif> >biggrin.gif>
Lar-!!!

My car is in the Paint Shop,for painting the side skirts again and i will ask from the guy to remove the insulation and i`ll tell you about it,how it feels.
Neoklis did you remove it??
I`ll check for the articles about the chargecooler on my pc at work and send them to you with email.
Lar- any new upgrades for your car?What are you thinking next??
Did you had a Dyno?
>
QUOTE(Lar- @ May 22, 2004 - 11:44 AM) [snapback]139425[/snapback]
>


Feeling at downshift??? ==> Very smooth(can be seamsless if you are able to sync the clutch paddle with the gas paddle) and solid.



Hi Lar-,


could you please explain me how is your downshifting on short gears ?

I have the same clutch you have, upshifting is quite ok...
but I'm getting very harsh disengagement and loud clunking on downshifting on low gears....

Thank you, bye.



Wolf_Tm(Parma;Italy) [Silat-Kali]Celica Gt-Four ST205Snowy White [full TTE/WRC/custom hw home built 3SGTE - 2.34kg/hp DynoDynamics]http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tmhttp://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250PS:You have to know that your Dynojet Whp are false,and closer to other dynos FW hp. Please specify what dyno are your Whp from.
>
QUOTE(Wolf_tm @ Nov 17, 2005 - 8:45 PM) [snapback]356701[/snapback]
>

but I'm getting very harsh disengagement and loud clunking on downshifting on low gears....




>>Hi Wolf_tm....

I used to have the same problem as you... harsh disengagement and krrrrrr... krrrrrr....
2 things that you have to look....

1. Worn-out gear synchromeshes. Mine were worn-out pretty bad.
2. Gear lines. There are 2 gear lines, one for upshifting and one for downshifting. Please check both lines if they are still in good long-term working condition.

Please don't trust my answer just yet as I am not sitting right next to you while your gear problem occured.
I can be wrong. Try to get a 2nd or a 3rd opinion for confirmation ok.


Cheers,
+: Lar' :+>
>