Where is the cheapest place to get the rear end links for the sway bar?
cheapest sway bar end links? - 6G Celicas Forums
I bought mine for $47 each at www.partsamerica.com, check also www.rockauto.com also.
Other than that check your local Murrays, Autozone, etc.
I'm pretty sure they're going to cost you about the same amount. Maybe a tad more??
Other than that check your local Murrays, Autozone, etc.
I'm pretty sure they're going to cost you about the same amount. Maybe a tad more??
toyota dealership sells them for around 50 each.
DEF
DEF
I will return one day.
Am I the only person who hates our end links and the weird bolt dealy on em?
NASA/SCCA RX-7....currently under the knife92 Civic hatch B16 - Sold10th anniv RX-7 - RIPThe Slow Celica - Sold...and then crushed crushed due to street racing.Quote from Seinfeild: George's Boss reading a magazine: "People magazine's most beautiful people. Oh and a Celica...nothin wrong with that!"
they suck!! you have to get a wire brush on a drill bit and get all the rust off the threads before you start loosening them. Just work the nut back and forth and keep spraying rust eater or something. They will come off if you use this method and can be reused.
-bufferdan+Jul 2, 2004 - 2:51 PM
cut them off and get new ones or get a vice grip and clamp down on the bushings. That should lock up the bolt and help get the nut off.
Oh..i know exactly how to get them off everytime now without destroying them, rusty or not. Like i said... Wire brush on a drill to get the rust off the end threads and spray it good with lub. Using the wrench and allen wrench work the nut back and forth till it comes all the way off. I put some grease on the threads when i put it back so it wont rust as badly if i have to take them off again./
No,no,no.. TORQUE WRENCH!
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I did a search on sway bar end links and this is the only torque wrench response, which is tempting to try. I have a torque wrench, but am convinced that Bufferdan's and Presure2s method works best. What are the cons of trying a torque wrench? You gotta hold that allen key bolt in place, right? I am going to do my own spring installation, by the way. This will only be my second time jacking the car up to do work on it. Thanks.
QUOTE(97Celica @ Jul 18, 2004 - 4:21 AM) [snapback]160004[/snapback]
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No,no,no.. TORQUE WRENCH!
No,no,no.. TORQUE WRENCH!
I did a search on sway bar end links and this is the only torque wrench response, which is tempting to try. I have a torque wrench, but am convinced that Bufferdan's and Presure2s method works best. What are the cons of trying a torque wrench? You gotta hold that allen key bolt in place, right? I am going to do my own spring installation, by the way. This will only be my second time jacking the car up to do work on it. Thanks.
WHOA HOLD ON. This will take time but it will work. Shoot PB Blaster on the nuts every morning for a week before you drive the car. The stuff will work it's way in as your drive and work the nuts loose.
94 GT Liftback86 GTS Coupe (Racecar) #99 Crew Chief
heres what to do.
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:

hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket
take your time, and follow the directions, its works every time.
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:

hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket
take your time, and follow the directions, its works every time.
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
>
Manny, thanks so much. I trust you as a resource. I just bought the 5mm allen socket at Sears today, the PB Blaster, and the longest 14mm boxed end wrench I could find, and I should be ready to roll soon, once I order the Teins.
QUOTE(presure2 @ Jan 28, 2006 - 3:04 PM) [snapback]385788[/snapback]
>
heres what to do.
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:

hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket
take your time, and follow the directions, its works every time.
heres what to do.
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:

hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket
take your time, and follow the directions, its works every time.
Manny, thanks so much. I trust you as a resource. I just bought the 5mm allen socket at Sears today, the PB Blaster, and the longest 14mm boxed end wrench I could find, and I should be ready to roll soon, once I order the Teins.
Done this job today, the 5mm allan socket idea, which I thought would work well, just rounded off the inside of the allen key bit...the nut was well and truely stuck, despite being covered in WD40....heated etc. So that was that idea ****ed, had to resort to a bfo drill and drill the drop link off the shock....the other side went tits up too so I`m gonna have to buy 2 of the damn things.....My car is really starting to piss me off, and now will be off the road for ANOTHER 2 days or so, that`ll be almost a month its been sat in the garage for
>
sounds like you didnt hammer the bit in far enough
also you need to turn the bolt FIRST, to break it loose from the tab
i cannot stress how important it is to seat that bit ALL the way in. it WILL strip out the whole if you dont seat it properly. also, you should NOT be trying to turn the allen socket.
the 14mm bolt is what you should actually be turning, the allen socket just holds the stud.
QUOTE
>just rounded off the inside of the allen key bit...the nut was well and truely stuck
sounds like you didnt hammer the bit in far enough
also you need to turn the bolt FIRST, to break it loose from the tab
i cannot stress how important it is to seat that bit ALL the way in. it WILL strip out the whole if you dont seat it properly. also, you should NOT be trying to turn the allen socket.
the 14mm bolt is what you should actually be turning, the allen socket just holds the stud.
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
Manny, thanks so much. I trust you as a resource. ......
didn't I say the exact same thing?
94 GT Liftback86 GTS Coupe (Racecar) #99 Crew Chief
>
www.Fensport.co.uk
$30 each
QUOTE(bufferdan @ Jun 30, 2004 - 12:03 PM) [snapback]153968[/snapback]
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Where is the cheapest place to get the rear end links for the sway bar?
Where is the cheapest place to get the rear end links for the sway bar?
www.Fensport.co.uk
$30 each
Am I the only person here who has never had an issue with the nuts siezing on the swaybar links? Even when I replaced mine (no idea how long the originals had been on for) they came undomne easily enough.
As for replacements, I went to my local suspension shop and bought some 'universal' ones. Half the cost of Toyota and just as good
Gary
As for replacements, I went to my local suspension shop and bought some 'universal' ones. Half the cost of Toyota and just as good
Gary
1994 ST205 Celica GT-FOUR Group A WRC - running in new engine1993 Rover 220 GTi tarmac rally car (under construction) 3SGE power here we come....GT-Four spec list
if u get new sway bars, is it bad if you don't replace the endlinks?
98 Celica GT -- 5S-FTE: 230WHP 237FT-LBS06 Civic EXMy For Sale Thread
it depends on how old the end links are..and most of the time the kits come with new ones..like the tanabe front sway bar comes with new end links and bushings.
Yea, for any Canucks on the site, retail for TRW endlinks from Crappy T, $83.56 w/o tax. Toyota's are about $3 more (or so one of the dealers around here tells me), and are covered under toyota warrenty.
Yea, for any Canucks on the site, retail for TRW endlinks from Crappy T, $83.56 w/o tax. Toyota's are about $3 more (or so one of the dealers around here tells me), and are covered under toyota warrenty.