Hey man looks really really good well done, and a good route for the ic piping. what boost are you running? noticed that youve got some hoses with no clamps on, why is that? ive already blown off some hoses on a high boost run, best to clamp everything, even if it seems like it doesnt need it. Have you had a chance to measure your intake temps yet? any improvement? oh yeah are you gonna mesh the intercooler? ive already had loadsa insects and stones hit mine already, definitely worth giving it some extra protection.

once again well done oin the work man

these are the clamps im on about

If Darth Vader had a car , that would be it

awesome

Now that this has taken you 2 months..Ya think you could do one in a week??

thanks for all the kind comments guys.

right now im using regular home depo cheap clamps, but im planing to upgrade them to the heavy duty ones soon. the parts of silicone that you see without a clamp and just there to prevent any rattle that may come from the piping and motor moving around.

the boost is set at stock and im getting around 8-10psi depending on what gear im in. the odd thing is that i dont seem to create much boost in 1st gear...i guess thats normal tho.

with the new motor the car no longer feels like such a dog. daily driving is much better then before. i wouldnt say that the car is the fastest thing in the world, but its definetly quick and can take any honda out there.

when i started this project, i was worried about traction issues and things like that. now that its done, traction is not a problem at all. i guess its just my driving style, but i dont brake loose in any gear or anything crazy like ive seen on the swap videos people have posted. i guess this is also because im at stock boost and have heavy 17s on. you do notice some torque steer tho, but nothing too hard to handle.


my future plans are to take a brake from mods and just enjoy what i built, but im planning to get an oil pressure gauge very soon.
my overall goals for the car are:

12-14psi
SAFC and dyno tuning
17x8 rims with 225-45 tires
GT4 spoiler posts
"Celica GT-4" badges for the rear
some type of rear lip for the back bumper
gt4 tails
gt4 projectors (maby)
paint interrior panels sliver
upgrade the sound system

and thats about it.

can i get a what what. loookin sexy i bet it runs nice.

-Manta5x+Aug 9, 2004 - 10:48 PM

-uzthedentist+Aug 10, 2004 - 6:23 AM

looks amazing man i've been moving for the past couple weeks and i can't believe your cars finally done.

once again congrats.

wow awesome! man, theres gotta be a better way for you swap guys to setup that turbo so the piping isnt everywhichway... very hot man!

if you disconnect the TVSV you will run "low boost mode" consistantly, so you will loose the performance of the higher gears, unless you get a MBC, then you can disconnect the TVSV and run "low boost mode" all the time, but you can turn it up to whatever you want. heres the info:


The T/VSV (Turbocharger Vacuum Switching Valve) is a "factory-installed boost controller". It is simply a solenoid-operated valve that, when energized (open) allows air to escape from the actuator, lowering the pressure in the actuator, and allowing the wastegate to modulate closed. This vented air actually flows back into the intake airstream between the airflow meter and the turbo intake so it does not distort the ECU's air/fuel ratio calculations.

The T/VSV is a normally closed-energized open valve. The ECU will energize (open) it whenever you boost IF 1) engine coolant temps are up to normal , and 2) ambient (intake) air temps are above ~ 32 deg F. (There may be some variation with that number).

NOTE: Unless you have an aftermarket boost controller, disabling the T/VSV will lock you into low-boost mode!! It WILL NOT increase boost.

The normal range of max boost ranges from 7.1 to 11.8 psi, according to the Factory Repair Manual (BGB). Low boost problems are almost always a result of some problem in the boost control system and rarely with the turbo itself.

but where is the t-vsv located ? what does it look like?

if you go under the car (in a MR2 atleast) thats the easiest way to get a look at it. its the part that the hose coming off the wastegate actuator (hose on the right) attaches to.

Man that's nice. I'm not one for the exterior looks however because I'm not a *huge* fan of the GT-FOUR stuff.

The easy way of disconnecting the effect of the TVSV is to cut and plug the hose from the actuator to the TVSV. Make sure you plug the hose from the actuator well, or you will be over boosting, its what happened to me.

yep put in an m8 bolt and secure well

Lagos are you going to make a how-to or summary of the swap wiring?

DG_Performance and I talked about doing something like this in the future, but 1st we want to figure out what every single wire is doing on the harness plugs.

-boosted_K2+Aug 10, 2004 - 11:04 AM