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SWAY BARS - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #19153 143 posts Started by edo17982
So All of you guys that have Suspension Techniques fron and rear anti-sway bars think its worth it for the money you paid for it. You guys say that it rubs alot against the frame why does the manufactures that make the anti-sway bars that way they don't test them out or something?? Would you guys consider getting front and rear strut bar towers instead??? Im really curious to know? THX

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
i think the rubbing model was a older model and ST upgraded it when the issue was reported to them....the new model shouldnt rub...someone correct me if im wrong
do none of you people run whiteline sway bars?

very very popular in aus and the uk (australian company).
they make fixed and adjustable units for all fwd/awd celicas, the fixed unit is the equivalent of the adjustable one on the medium setting.

Ive got mine adjustable one on meduim, but only because on hard it was ripping the mounts off the suspension strut on one side and im sick of re welding it on, no dramas on meduim.

sway bar first, then get the cusco underbody brace, makes a mc massive diff, stiffens the chassis **** loads.

consider getting the front and rear strut tower bars

price for the fixed rear is around $200 aus (so near $200 us with the exchange rate as it is atm) adjustable is around $220.

dont make a front one for the 6th gens as far as im aware (they do for 5th and 7th).
rears bring in a more neutral handling and even introduce a bit of oversteer, worth your while

ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
There's wanting something, and then there's finding it in your marketplace.

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QUOTE(Coomer @ Dec 8, 2004 - 4:28 PM) [snapback]218742[/snapback]
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They're very strong...You can flex the OEM ones just by putting weight on them...I couldn't do that with my Suspension Techniques sway bars.

I like them a lot. My body roll was greatly reduced. smile.gif The only problem is that they hit the frame a little bit in one spot.


Hey would you conisider this to be the cheapest mod in improving the body roll of the car by alot.
or should i get strut tower bars instead.

Is that true that they hit the frame a little are the suspension techniques front and rear sway bars the same size as the stock ones?

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
so I'm able to obtain a set of these for cheap, but i'm pretty sure they're the 1st gen ones as they are atleast 4 years old. How hard was it to "bend" them to stop the rubbing? Would doing this change any of the performance gained?
these help alot more than just strut tower bars.

2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
dont try to bend or reform the sway bars at all. just save the extra however much $ and get new ones. it is worth it, and your wouldnt be changing the structure of the bar. which would probably result in a reduction of performance. the bar was made that way especially for our cars, changing that would be bad.

the sus tec bars are much thicker than stock's. like it has been said before the recalled old generation sway bars did rub. all that is available now is the V2. so if you get them new you are safe

and i too agree that you see more of a difference when adding sway bars (particularly the front) rather than the strut mounts

1995 GT::::Diffusing the Situationエキサイティングカーレーシングチーム!march2010 COTM:6GCfeature2014:january2015-2016-2018 COTM
Any updates on this ?? I wanna see some pictures !! smile.gif

"To Protect And To Serve The Wealthy" -POLICE
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QUOTE (Tigawoods @ Jan 21, 2009 - 4:37 AM) *
>dont try to bend or reform the sway bars at all. just save the extra however much $ and get new ones. it is worth it, and your wouldnt be changing the structure of the bar. which would probably result in a reduction of performance. the bar was made that way especially for our cars, changing that would be bad.

the sus tec bars are much thicker than stock's. like it has been said before the recalled old generation sway bars did rub. all that is available now is the V2. so if you get them new you are safe

and i too agree that you see more of a difference when adding sway bars (particularly the front) rather than the strut mounts


Dont forget to buy Twosrus endlinks biggrin.gif

I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
thats a good price. I paid $314 total for mine from advancespeedshop.com That was with $20 shipping 5-7 business days and $22 of tax.

Thats the cheapest price you'll find online. Mine retailed at $271. So your getting a good price.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 3, 2009 - 8:11 PM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
ok, email sent to them to make sure that nothing is missing.

'99 Celica GT - Sold'11 Mazdaspeed3
update: they emailed back >
QUOTE
>Hello



It is their complete kit front and rear bar plus hardware kit. Price does not include shipping.



Regards
Now I just need to talk myself into getting them.

'99 Celica GT - Sold'11 Mazdaspeed3
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QUOTE (Cuts_the_Pilot @ Apr 25, 2008 - 5:49 PM) *
>do none of you people run whiteline sway bars?

very very popular in aus and the uk (australian company).
they make fixed and adjustable units for all fwd/awd celicas, the fixed unit is the equivalent of the adjustable one on the medium setting.

Ive got mine adjustable one on meduim, but only because on hard it was ripping the mounts off the suspension strut on one side and im sick of re welding it on, no dramas on meduim.

sway bar first, then get the cusco underbody brace, makes a mc massive diff, stiffens the chassis **** loads.

consider getting the front and rear strut tower bars

price for the fixed rear is around $200 aus (so near $200 us with the exchange rate as it is atm) adjustable is around $220.

dont make a front one for the 6th gens as far as im aware (they do for 5th and 7th).
rears bring in a more neutral handling and even introduce a bit of oversteer, worth your while


do you have a direct link to the info on the adjustable rear sway bar? and do they also make the front and rear tower bars your talking about?

95 Celica ST (currently in Motorsport Purgatory)
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QUOTE (94_CGT @ Mar 25, 2009 - 8:34 PM) *
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QUOTE (jimmykay @ Mar 3, 2009 - 6:18 PM) *
>I am looking at getting some swaybars and it seems like I found a good price, but is this a decent site to get them from?

http://www.modacar.com/products/Toyota/Cel...niques+Ant.html


what is the diffrence between jimmykay's link and mine?

http://www.weaksauceparts.com/store/produc...2511&page=1

well i n jimmykay's link it looks like they are selling the first version , and both front and rear sway bar.
on your link it looks likes the second version and only the rear sway bar.

http://www.japanparts.com
Hi Everybody. So ive had my st sway bars far almost a year now. and they are fantastic (life savers) So some people were mentioning how the adjustability of the rear swar bar works. The pic shows the sway bar link on the stiffest setting of the rear sway bar, which is the holes closest to the middle of the sway bar. (i have had this setting since i installed my suspension set up back in july).

So today i decided to change the setting to the holes on the end of the sway bar, to see if i would notice any difference in handling. The difference like from day to night. With the car at the softer setting, the car understeers and handling feels sloppy. Hmm who would of that it would have made that much of a difference. When swerving back and forth i feel as if i can not control the car as much. I took a right hand turn pretty quickly and i could hear the front left tire squealing from the understeer. this did not happen when i had the it at the stiffer setting.

I only test drove it for a little. also did a swerve from one lane to the other and i notice the understeer as well.

on the stiffer setting there is more of a nuetral feel to the car with out any understeer. i have yet to take an on ramp onto a freeway to see how it feels with the softer setting. so ill get back to you guys on that.



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 25, 2013 - 4:26 AM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
>
QUOTE
>The holes closer to the end of the bar can be used if you want more oversteer, but if you don't want as much oversteer, use the inside holes that are closer to the middle of the bar.


Thats the quote in the "How To" section which is right ?? lol

"To Protect And To Serve The Wealthy" -POLICE
haha woops i missed that. oh well im just adding more information of how the different setting react to the cars handling. I'm the first to elaborate in detail how it feels from the different rear sway bar settings. but ya thanks for pointing that out missed that. tongue.gif

btw update your pics on your profile pics. it says you have 96 + bumper with sideskirts and those pics you have are of your old set up.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 8, 2009 - 11:38 PM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514

>
QUOTE
>The holes closer to the end of the bar can be used if you want more oversteer, but if you don't want as much oversteer, use the inside holes that are closer to the middle of the bar.


isn't it the other way around? holes closer to the end should be the softest setting and provide more understeer, where as the holes further from the end provides a stiffer setting and give more oversteer.

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no, its a leverage thing. by decreasing the length of the sway bar, it can effectively transmit more torsional force. making it a stiffer ride. Since our cars love the understeer, it would make sense to go with the closest holes to attempt to counter this.

*Edited for correctness

This post has been edited by jimmykay: Jun 9, 2009 - 9:31 AM

'99 Celica GT - Sold'11 Mazdaspeed3
not necessarily, you don't want too much oversteer with a front wheel drive as it can't be that easy to control, and you don't want to be on an open road where dry lifting off creates oversteer, imagine that in the wet.
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QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 7, 2009 - 12:16 AM) *
>on the stiffer setting there is more of a nuetral feel to the car with out any understeer.

this is what I was getting at. not necessarily creating oversteer, just countering the existing understeer.

Also, after looking at Bonzai's post again, I think i'm completely backwards on this. I'll edit my above post to avoid confusion.

'99 Celica GT - Sold'11 Mazdaspeed3
ok guys i think your getting all confused. what azain advanced said was correct. And that was the same thing that i was saying. So to clerify things :
>>
>>-The picture that i posted that is the setting that you want to keep it on. The stiffer setting will create a nuetral feel to the cars handling with a slight bit of oversteer, you can bairly feel the oversteer.

>>-holes at the end of the sway bar (softer setting will create understeer) like i described in my post.>> >
>>
>

don't even bother with putting the sway bar links at the softer setting it will create understeer

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 9, 2009 - 12:58 PM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
>
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 8, 2009 - 11:36 PM) *
>haha woops i missed that. oh well im just adding more information of how the different setting react to the cars handling. I'm the first to elaborate in detail how it feels from the different rear sway bar settings. but ya thanks for pointing that out missed that. tongue.gif

btw update your pics on your profile pics. it says you have 96 + bumper with sideskirts and those pics you have are of your old set up.

I posted what I read in the "how to" section I have my sway bars off right now they're getting repainted I'll post up pics with my twosrus endlinks when its done. thumbsup.gif

"To Protect And To Serve The Wealthy" -POLICE
I measured the front sway bars at 24mm and the rear sway bar at 22mm is that the correct thickness for them???

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
^ as in stock? if you mean stock that would be wrong, but if its Suspension techniques i think your right.

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QUOTE (whatthe @ Sep 26, 2010 - 10:08 PM) *
>^ as in stock? if you mean stock that would be wrong, but if its Suspension techniques i think your right.


yes thats what I mean I measured my Suspension Technique Sway Bars last night and thats the measurement I got. I just wanted confirmation from another member

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
Someone was trying to tell me that I should get the rear sway bar, and it should at least be 28- 34 mm thick. You guys know these cars, what is optimal for autox'ing?

1994 Celica GT, coupe, 5 speed.Front strut brace, cherrybomb glasspack, intake.