Has anyone sealed their doors completely to improve midbass response from your speakers?

I'm trying to find a good way to seal the big hole in mine. If anyone has sealed theirs completely, I'd love to hear some advice or see some pics. >>

U mean the piece where the plastic sheet is and where your door handle wire goes through.

Some guys over here just tag a metal plate to cover big holes and then use dynamat over that because if a hole is larger then 10x10 or 15x15 (cm not inches) dynamat is not sufficient enough and you will have to use metal plate to cover it. I havent seen it on any celica tho.

I want to do it as well when the time comes.

Well the easy way is to just get speaker baffles from Crutchfield or elsewhere, which protects the motor from dust and dirt and gives slightly better mid bass response. I dont believe that sealing the doors entirely would make a whole lot of difference. Keep in mind that midrange/full range speakers are designed to be used in free air applications. One thing that will make a difference though is using dynamat or (insert much cheaper competitor) on the metal panels. That will help the rattling, which will make the speaker sound better overall.

http://www.showyoursound.nl/Public/ShowCas...p?Id=967&Page=1

Check that link. Its in dutch but the picture will make up for it. This guy used fiberglass to fill up the big holes and then used dynamat over the entire doorpanel.

You can get those baffles that 1900 was talking about, then resin them to make them solid and airtight. If you leave them how they are, they flex, and the hole that the speaker wire runs through could possibly make noise with air moving in and out. If you do resin them, fit them first in case they are too deep.

Well, the only problem with those speaker baffles covered in fiberglass is that it's such a tiny enclosure for a speaker. After speaker displacement, I'd probably be looking at .04-.08 ft^3, which is very little airspace. I could see how it sounds, but I doubt that it'd help my midbass having a speaker in such a tiny sealed enclosure.

From what I read, properly sealing the doors makes a huge difference. My main problem is that it's so hard to seal the area around the door lock and door handle levers and the area around my aftermarket power windows, which you can see below.



I may try to seal them a bit tonight though.

Are you sure about your measurements? The 8 inch would fit fine since thats what size hole is there and they 5 inches deep. That gives you about 250 cubic inches, or .14 cubic feet. Maybe you could make it deeper by using some fiberglass? That plastic peice that the speaker sits on comes out pretty far, you would have a decent amount of space behind it if you took it to the door skin.

My doors do not have an 8" opening. I have manual doors(no factory power options.) >>

Maybe I did make a mistake...here's my math:

Speaker diameter = 6.5 inches
6.5/2 = 3.25 inches (radius)
3.14 (pi) * 3.25^2 = 33.16625 sqare inches (surface area)

33.16625 * 3.25(depth of XTC's biggest 6.5" speaker baffle) = 107.79 cubic inches (volume)

107.79/12^3 = .06 cubic feet

I would indeed cut out the back and lengthen the enclosure to, say, 5" or so(and this was accounted for in my original measurements.) So I'd have a bit more airspace. But then you factor in driver displacement(which I don't know exactly for my speakers) and it reduces this airspace. So yeah, I think my math is pretty close.

The manual-door plastic piece does come out fairly far, but can come out a lot further(like 2" or so) with the use of power door panels. I'm not using it though because my speaker doesn't fit into it and would need spacers anyway since the speaker magnet would hit the window when it's down. I'm using custom MDF plates and rings to space the speaker out.

Cliff notes: Unless I take my dear friend Mr. Sawzall to my door, there's little chance of me being able to fit a large-enough(for my tastes) sealed enclosure for my speaker into my door. So I'm going to attempt to go infinite-baffle and seal the door completely. >>

mine are seal with dyno mat one layer on the door skin and another on the outer part diffently improves sound

Foam insulation and use the AC >>

I threw some plastic-coated fiber insulation behind the speaker and around the big opening. It flexed well (to accomodate the aftermarket power locks) and I don't think a perfect seal is that important as long as you muffle the bulk of the sound.

The waves that resonate though the air between metal pieces is what you have to worry about (and absorb).

You dont have to completly cover each segment of the door. As long as you cover enough. U will find out soon.

i thought you wanted to seal the doors like the dukes of hazard days!

-LewFX+Jul 29, 2005 - 4:48 PM
Thats what I thought..... But I need to put something in there to help this too