Ok i need for people that have shaved doors or just door poppers to help me out with some info and pics


1st - what poppers are you using, where did you get them, and how much

2nd - where did you mount them

3rd - how far do the pop out

4th - did you use a back up button

5th - i need pics of the mounting position

and is there anything i should know

thanks

1. SPAL 50lb. 7 channel door kit. $100 off ebay.

2. Mine r mounted to pull the door "latch" down. thats all i know cause i took mine to a shop.

3. W/O the "poppers" mine pop out fine using the spring loaded button looking thing that makes the door chime.

4. No. i forgot it at home.

5. no pics

1 Autolok 5 channel - 75lbs - ebay - 90 i think

2. towards the bottom of the inside of the doors straight under the latch

3. with no poppers they pop out enough to fit your fingers in and pull it all the way open.

4. did not use back up button cuz i dont know how to install it lol

5. i will try to take pics this week some time

aim me (SpudPR7) or email me (prpnum1@gmail.com) if you want any help.

Autoloc is good, my pops got them

I wouldn't install the back up button if i had them. In the rare case that my battery would be dead, I'd open the hatch, open the hood and jump the battery.

wat if you don't have a hatch key hole?! >>

exactly, because i don't. and i want to place a backup button on the inside too if i can beacuse i have no door handles

Sorry I took so long to reply i got your PM.

I have the autoloc kit with poppers and they push out my door about 1.5" when car is leaning toward the opposit side of the door opened,
if the car is parked in the othe direction it will open the door basically all the way.
you can mout the popper in the lower rear part of the door where the factory has the rubber bushing- BUT BE CAREFUL on the passenger side because that it where the washer fluid and wires for your rear wiper run through.

As for the placement of the actuaors in the door the pull towards the front of the car, and are mounted behind the door panel where you armrest is.Also- I disabled the lock function so that the door will not get locked and therefore open when you try to pop it rather than having to unlock the door and then pop it open. I have the 10lb. actuators and in order for them to be able to pull the handle enough to open the door I had to cut the spring in the door(interior) handle itself If not every once and a while it had trouble opening on the first try, now I don't have any more problems.

One other thing that I did was after the actuator cables were properly adjusted to the right length I put some epoxy where the cable ties are so they wouldn't slide, because if not every 7-8 months you might have to re-adjust them.

I also have the keyhole on the hatch shaved
what I did was take off the rear panel to mount fit a box back there so I re-routed the cable that was on the keyhole to the bottom of the trunk under the spare and used a autoloc 10lb. actuator to pop hatch with my alarm, than i used another cable like the one for the hatch that ran to under the car(through factory grommet in hatch) so that I can just climb under car and pull to open hatch if battery dies(since mine is in the trunk) you can do the same with your hood latche cable
I prefer the cable because if you don't have power in the first place a "backup button" isn't going to help anything.

I'll post pics as soon as I can, but I hope that this helps out

This post has been edited by dans_st: Oct 18, 2005 - 2:21 PM

1st - Kit of ebay (swapped out the poppers for door lock actuators from car toys for about $15)

2nd - in the far bottum corner of the door

3rd - not very >> enough to open, about 6 inches but it swings back in and stops about 1 inch from closing

4th - yeah in the trunk because I can open it with a key.

5th - I'll see what i can do.

This post has been edited by creis: Oct 18, 2005 - 2:26 PM

i also have a vid of how far my door opens with no popper.