>>Note: This how-to and its associated photos are now located at this url:

http://www.6gc.net/howto/install_rear_sway_bar

-Christian Coomer, Administrator>>

looking thru this site there was nothing for ->
things to watch out for when installing rear sway bar.


oem vs suspension technique


oem vs suspension technique


oem vs suspension technique


o man do i need a disc conversion lol either that or sand/paint the drum.<p>




sway bar hits exhaust pipe -> must be removed.
U-Clips removed from bushings.


watch for the flange as it has one nut welded to it. the other is bolt/nut combo


used wd-40 for lubricant & just removed rubber-hanger support from rear of exhaust 1 of 3 rubber hangers.


2 small screws should take care of that


my pea shooter.


fuel tank straps were removed. fuel tank dropped about 1.5" - held up by jack & wood block.


watch for these as they might get caught but shouldn't be a threat.


tilt your head for this one. much more space after removing the muffler


POOF! no more oem sway bar! it was a sinch to remove.


voila! suspension technique sway bar in place ready for install.


be liberal with the grease


these bushings are huge compared to stock


had a weird time putting this bushing U-clip on because the bolt came too close to the hump





feels great to drive
gL on your install

Great! This had better get made into a "how to." There's a few things I thought should have made it into the "how to's," but I see no reason at all this shouldn't.

nice write up

good job, man, ill add this to the stickys!

You may not have to remove the muffler if you have an aftermarket unit. I did not with my HKS setup that goes under the suspension. Just FYI if this becomes a how-to.

How does it feel, before and after the install. Im looking for some difference to make a supension upgrade on my car.

muuummm yummy

Great How-to Nice and clear photos....
How does it feels??
It is good to see owners to improve the car handling

wise man once said: If it feels like you're riding on rails, you're not driving fast enough.

noticeable change in oversteer @ high speed 60+mph highways exits

when i got my alignment done, the tech changed the settings on the rear sway bar [to outer oversteer setting]. i tried something i did usually in my car on a high speed exit (+60mph) and the front end became unstable [as opposed to back end "swinging/slipping/pivot" out].

This post has been edited by purplegt4: May 25, 2006 - 6:30 PM

what's better? oversteer or understeer. i dont care about fwd/rwd, i want to know about which one's better on the celica. im kinda lazy to search and am really just looking for a very brief definition of both and why one is better than the other for daily driving. thanks.

p.s. im planning on putting on both front and rear sways, if that helps.

This post has been edited by JoKeRkId613: May 21, 2006 - 8:41 PM

hmm...this could be a problem for me. My exhaust doesnt unbolt..its pretty much welded as one peice from my headers back. theres probably a way to manover it around the exhaust pipe

What about the horisontal brace between the swaybar and damper?

Is shis the OEM part? Is seems so weak...
I have just put on D2Racing coilovers, and this will be my next uppgrade.

>

all depends on how you drive. cars were made with more understeer/push to make for safer driving.

>

took me a while to figure out that it's almost impossible...gL on that one.


>

the swaybar endlink? it should be fine. never had one totally bend/break on me and i drive damn hard.

>

Yes, that was the name for it, endlink.

So you use the stock endlink, there is no upgrade for this part?

>

not that i know of. shouldn't really need it as the sway bar/strut is absorbing most of the action.

how u do the fronts????....any pics of that too???.....how u managed to manuever it in front?

wow, thanks for all the pictures!

If you want upgraded endlinks you can either chose for the Whiteline universal 90-115 mm endlinks (about 130 USD) or these

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=54200

Are meant for a Mazda Miata/MX5 but have the same (10,5 or 10,8 cm) length as the stock Toyota Endlinks.

>

but will they swap over???

Would not post them if I thought they weren't suitable for our cars now would I
ST185 owners use them when they get a stiffer rear sway bar. The "Miata" endlink is between 10,5-10,8 cm from "eye to eye" I measured my own Endlink and its the same. Dont think US has a different size endlink.

And the Miata endlink is adjustable +/- 2/3mm The Whiteline Universal endlinks from 90-115mm so enough room to get them precisly as long as our stock ones.

i didnt remove any strut bolts, unhook the gas lines and somehow it fit thru. i also have an aftermarket exhaust so removing it wasnt an option. Also DONT use the allan screws they give you for the fronts, worst thing ever, the area is tight enough and then dealing with the allan wrench is retarded, use the old stock one and save yourself a good hour.

This post has been edited by LewFX: Aug 14, 2006 - 6:20 PM