I posted in a thread that was locked before it was answered. But I want to know the answer to this. What would I need to remove or move my rev limiter? I have a feeling I'm going to need some major reworking to do this, but I thought there might be a chance it was simple. I would like to remove it and install a safc2 and shift light. I know it's probably not worth it, but I'm curious. Thanks.

1) install a on/off switch between speed sensor and ECU

2) FCD from HKS or Blitz

3) reprogram the ECU

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Wouldn't that be a bad thing to do? The ECU needs to know the RPMs for all kinds of different stuff, right?

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I could do the switch, and the Fuel Cut-off Dissabler from HKS is $125. But were would I ever get the ECU reprogrammed? I was under the impression that there wasn't any guides for reprogramming the 5sfe ECU. There might be some for the 7afe. This is only what I was told from a shop I went to once.

Buy an ecu without a rev limiter, Or speed limiter....

Can I ask why you would want to remove it ? Sure you might go 3 to 5 MPH faster. Why would you want to do that? The engine will be over the redline, which might cause some parts to fail. Not to mention you be going 125 MPH when they might fail.

Not trying to argue with you, just wondering why ? I gave my why not reasons.

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Because sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, I bump the limiter and it effects my times a little. That's what got me started. I don't think it pratical to do. I didn't really think it was pratical when I started. I just want a couple more rpm when shifting. I would be happy with another 100rpm. It's mostly just for future referance, just in case I decide to get cams. I don't think I'll modify the 5sfe any more, unless I get desperate or really board. But if I get a 3sgte, which are the plans now, I'd just like to know the basics.

I would like to know because I am using the 7afe ECU with my 4age Silver Top and the Rev is WAY higher than it will allow for. Is the only way to do this consist of buying an actuall HKS or Blits unit? There isn't a quick trick or something? I thought I herd something about this a while ago, did a search but could find anything on it. Anyway, if someone knows let us know!!

When racing or normal driving you dont need to hold it all the way to redline. Engine have powerbands, you know the lines you see on a dyno slip. The peak power the 5sfe makes is way before the redline, if you shift just after the peak power point. Your ET times will improve. Once you go passed the peak power point you start to lose HP and lose momentum. So the next gear has to work alittle harder to make up, this is slowing you down. The limiter is there for a reason, 100rpm more wont do anything but possibly hurt your engine.

As an example
I'm gonna guess the peak power is at 5,800 RPM's you should be out of that gear before 6,000 RPM's.


Again just trying to help
DEF

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The trick is buying the right ECU for the engine

I just figured a little more rpm from 1st to 2nd couldn't hurt. The power is maxed too low on this motor. I know about drag times. I know about drag racing, and I have specific points I shift from gear to gear, and they're a little different depending on the gear. I really believe if I could get just a little bit more rpm, I could have a better 60 foot time. It probably wouldn't even show up on a 1/4mile. If it was a simple wire cut, I would do this. I know, if I got a safc2, I would definately want that extra rpm. That will most likely be the next mod I'll put on if I ever do anything else. I don't understand how the internals could be so week they couldn't handle more than 6200rpm. If they really can't, this motor is even bigger crap than I thought.

Think about heat. The amount of heat generated at 6,200 RPM. The engine wont fail right away, but in time this will cause valves and seals to fail. Also there is a HP and TQ lose even in those gears, you dont notice it because they go by so fast. Try shifting the way I said, I promise it will help your times.

Not to mention if you are not careful, you can take it way past the point you wanted to originally shift at.I wouldnt want to pin the tach needle.

If you want to increase 60ft times, there are other methods that would give you better results.

lower your tire pressure
practice launching at different RPM's
stiffen the rear suspension
remove heavy items from your car
drive around the water box, spin the tires alittle to knock the dirt and rocks off
practice your reaction time, the lower that is the lower ur 60ft will be


I'll try to think of more things.

what happend to the guy with the white celi that had is setup for AutoX. He had a diagram on his website that told you how to remove it. Anyone have that link??

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I've done all of those, now I'm looking for something else. I just don't want you to consider me a newbi when it comes to racing. I've done my fair share. I've never taken the Celica to the track, but I did my old cars. But your right about the suspension. That would probably help me about as much as what I'm wanting to do.
Launch = 3400rpm
1-2 = 6200 rpm
2-3 = 6100 rpm
3-4 = 6000-6100 rpm
No gear change into 5
Shifting like that keeps me in the power band most of the time. But, when I shift out of 1st, it's definately soon out the power band. But with the header I have, and if I decided to put safc on it, I would have a better top end, and need a little bit more. I'm just explaining myself because I don't want to look like a newbi. Fact is, I probably am in the big picture of things. But I think I've been to the tracks more than most people here. But I haven't had the Celica out yet to really compare times. I'll probably have to do that instead of just going on feeling.

I don't think I would want to remove the limiter, just add a shift light.