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Like runriot said, you just have to make sure you have the correct load shown to the amplifier. You can (theoretically) run as many subs to the amp as you want, given that the overal impedance given by all the subs is safe for the amp to run.

Adding a sub later on is generally a hassle. Unless you plan on running your amp now at 4ohm, i.e. you run it now at 2 ohm, its tough to add another sub, to give you an overall impedance of 2 ohm to the amp again.

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q1 - there isn't really a point of putting an 8 inch sub up front unless you got the money and time to do it cause you would have either find a really really shallow 8 or do alittle fabrication to your door panel by cutting out the ciricle and then adding like a .75 inch ring or so so you can still roll down your windows and then dynamating your doors to keep for to much rattling

q2- the cheapest way to do it make still make to pretty damn good would be to get a kenwood excleon head unit problably one for around 250 or so for componets either boston acustics or alpine type s and rears try to stay with the same brand. note - if you are going to add a componet set then you will need to amp your high end i recommend the new alpine 4 channels not to expensive round 199 i think for one that will more then you could ever want. for amp i would reccomnd um... either an alpine for 199 or possibly a directed d800 for about 199 i would stay with the alpine. then either buy an alpine type s 10 or i would reccomend a jl 10w1 for $120 or a 10w3 either the v2 or v3 they run for i think 199 or so then a custom box that cost like 100 - 125

q3 - get well known brands don't go cheap and try to stay away from rockford poducts cheap products pioneer, dual, lightening audio, and cheap sony.

q4 - like i said try to get a well known brand on amps you get what you pay for if you pay 100 for an amp that does 1400w won't work for a ten you won't need more power then atleast 400w max so i would use just a decent amp remember if you pay like $300 for a 500 watt amp its should be pretty good

q5 - dynamat dynamat dynamat tighten spoiler, dynamat whole car, and can i say dynamat type products

hope this helped if you have ne other questions email me audio_earthquake@yahoo.com peace

kindof late but thanks anyway

this is the system I'm getting:

CD Player:
Alpine CDA-9856
Price: $200
RMS Watts: 18 Watts, Peak Power 50 x 4 channels

Component Speakers:
Alpine Type-X SPX-177R
Price: $450
RMS Watts: 75, Peak Power: 300

Speakers:
Alpine Type-R SPR-17LP
Price: $150
RMS Watts: 50, Peak Power: 250

Sub:
Alpine SWR-1242D
Price: $200
RMS Watts: 500, Peak Power: 1500

1st Amp:
Alpine MRV-F545
Price: $650
100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms), 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

2nd Amp:
Alpine MRD-M1005
Price: $550
RMS Watts: 700 x 1 at 4 ohms/1000 x 1 at 2 ohms

I've already bought the 2nd Amp (mono amp), Head Unit and the 12" SubWoofer.

i have 2 type r alpines (1500 watt max)and 2 power acoustik (980 wat) amps one to each of them i got my car alongwith the system last august ive had the amps up the whole way as long as ive owned the car and never had any problems. i think as long as u dont go over peak watts u will be fine

mines standard except the lil sub in the rear seat lol that is barely noticable