2 days ago got a hold of this engine bay Had to install Ari intake (make ss Elbow for the Apexi filter), relocate HKS SSQW, and install Profec B specII boost controler. As i am almost total noob on 3SGTE engines, this was my first real experience working with them - and this first experience wasnt so damn good - got my all hands scratched trying to access to damn WG and had to rework some piping to place the airfilter...









Here hows everything looks now

Well, i have now few Questions what i would need to be answered:

1. On the WG there are 2 houses comming - one goes to the Compressor housing of turbo (this one i know ) Another one goes??? To VCV? Or wtf it is called, some sort of stock boost controller? Well, while installing ProfecB i disconected second house witch goes (to nowhere ) and sealed it shut, made the same thing on the second inlet on WG. Left only the house witch goes to compressor housing. Did i made this right?

2. What is the critical part of boost for the 3S stock? i read it in few places but most of the tell different amount. I set the Limiter on the boost controler to 1.2 bar. Is this right or not?

3. Does 3gen 3S engines comes with CT26 or CT20B on the Four? Cuz i got confused aint finding no writing on compressor housing witch would say what turbbo is this...

4. And the last Q - Kinda strange but this engine has the power till bout 6200 - 6400 rpm after this - its more or less just screams but you can not feel the "pull". Is this somthing wromng with the Engine it self or just normal thing for a 3SGTE

Thanks
Romas


P.S. Client asked about the IC - should we ditch this W/A setup and go with the Front mount, or should we leave this one sitting on top and go with the bigger heat exchange radiator?

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It is CT20b, ct26 had the "toyota ct26" on the housing while ct20b just have the "toyota" on it

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Mine 3gen pulls noticeably untill about 6800 - loose some exhaust restriction maybe it will help

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I will trade you my fmic+piping (welded stainless) for your w/a but seriously you should stay with W/A its plenty good for high hp numbers.

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I would like to know that too. Stock 3gen runs like 13.5 psi, and has 2.5 bar map so i guess there is some room up the boost... but how much?? anyone??

someone please write up 3gen power primer

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not always. check this thread http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=32646&hl=

a ct20b has 7 studs while a ct26 has 6

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Exhaust is full Mongoose straight throue, no cats + aussie downpipe

yes the second hose on the wastegate goes to the stock boost controller

and id take w2a over a front mount any day.

i have the same size boost controller (regular profec b not the spec II) and if you could post/pm me instructions on mounting it there and geting it to look as clean/flush as you did id appreciate it!

This post has been edited by brianforster: Apr 6, 2006 - 3:07 PM

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Romas I agree with all these answers except that the efficiency of the ST205 W/A intercooler falters somewhere north of 350whp. A good A/A will be better for real big numbers.

One other suggestion is to relocate that battery and run a strainght intake pipe. That should help you pick up 2-5 hp.

Stock ECU has fuel maps for 17.5 PSI. You'll hit fuel cut after that.

I find the turbo usually runs out of flow at about 6400-6500 and it's time to snatch another gear.

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does that hold true for both st205 and sw20 gen3 3sgte ? (mine came from jdm sw20)

thanks!

I agree with the moving of the battery, one of the first things I plan to do to free up some working space.

The max boost you will be able to run on the stock turbo will depend on whether you have the standard ceramic turbne or one of the homogulation (sp) steel turbines.

Mine pulls all the way to 7100 @ 1.06 bar (haven't ever taken it right to the limit) although from about 6900 on the engine starts screaming and being a noob I need to take someone who knows their noises for a blat to work out if it is the wastegate or induction.

GT4WRC on here should be able to give you some good answers, he had a good setup and really punished me on the strip before he pulled his engine out and rebuilt it.

I got the ceramic turbine, but please dont tell me that its no good coz its brittle.. there are many people on mr2oc pushing close to 20 psi over 2 years now without any "shattering wheel" myths... and i don't think that going over 20 psi on a small turbo like ct20b would be a good idea anyways...

I am planning on 3" dp and full 3" exhaust + aussie freeflow cat + a/f and ignition tunning (not via standalone thou)

whats max psi on this set up on pump gas anyone?

damn doggy sorry for an attempt to jack the thread