Hi all,

Just got myself a new old celica. Really nice drive with plenty of power. However as with all used cars there are a number of little things that need sorting. The one i am struggling with at the mo is the oil level light on the dash, it lights up as soon as the car moves from starting. It rarely goes out. It is not the oil pressure, but the oil level. I think this must be a faulty sender or duff connector as the oil level is correctly topped up with 10/30W oil. Anyone had anything similar? Also does anyone know the location of the oil level sender so i can check the plug contacts for fouling as i gather it will be under the car somwere. The car in question is a 94 generation6 celica GT, UK spec totaly standard, no mods. Engine is a 3S-GE 170ish bhp , dash type 180MPH 9K RPM. Sunroof, Hatchback. Also how do you stop the ABS light coming on? Does it indicate worn pads? as i think they are low.

Cheers,
Leigh.P

you know a few years ago i had a pontiac sunfire with the blinking oil level issue it was the sender and 9 out of 10 times youll find the sender in the oil pan on one of the sides as far as the abs light pads being worn wont affect the light the way abs works is theres a relucter and a pickup sensor usually on the axle but could be on the hub check the teeth on the reluctor make sure theres no road grim stuck in there that will prevent the pickup from sensing the revolutions of the wheel also since its intermitant you might need to check the wires going to the sensor since they are subjected to vibration and motion constanly one other thing to consider is this abs works off of wheel speed it senses how fast each wheel is moving in relation to the others if .......... if there is a difference between one of the four wheels the abs modual will interoupt the brakeing pressure to compensate the difference in the wheels to try and correct the issue another thing to consider is this if there is a fualt within the 4 motor system that controls the abs it will also throw a code out and make the lamp come on theres a ton of variables to play with on abs the easiest thing to do is find someone with a diagnostic tool to connect to the diagnostic connector and read the codes that were saved in its fault history normaly codes will remain even after the lamp goes off most of the time up to 40 ign cycles

Thanx for that, i'll have a check of the sensors if i can find them. Does anyone know what form the fault codes come in? What i mean is is it serial data or just a case of counting pulses out of the fault code socket? I'm an electronic engineer so if i can find out what type of data it is and get a list of codes then i will be able to knock up a reader with ease. Anyone any info on this?

Leigh.P

What i mean is is it serial data or just a case of counting pulses out of the fault code socket? I'm an electronic engineer so if i can find out what type of data it is and get a list of codes then i will be able to knock up a reader with ease.

all you need is a paper-clip, find the `diagnostic port` located to the right rear of the fire-wall,
open-it, and there shoud be a diagram of the terminals inside the lid
get your paper-clip and bridge the terminals, `TC - E1` you will also need to remove the
`silver` connectin-pin to the front of the port,
now turn-on the ignition and the abs light will flash, count the `abs flashes` and you will get
the `code` for the problem` cant find the list at moment, but let us know what you get and i will
get back to you on the meaning of the code,

and as for the oil warning light, except for the obvious of the car haveing low oil,
its probably a sender problem, like mentioned above,
its an expensive fix thou, uk £170-£200, you could try to find the sender and try to `clean`
but they seem to be tempramental, so best way if you dont want to pay-out at the moment
is to check the oil level regularly `which should be done anyway` and if you cant live with the light-on
and remove the bulb from
the dash

This post has been edited by ray405: Jun 26, 2006 - 9:23 AM

Thanx again, i'll read out the code's tommowow after work and post them in here. Whilst i'm at it what does it mean when your engine starts to hunt for its base idle speed? My instinct is telling me the O2 sensors are at the end of their life but could there be other causes on these types of engines? Pref a cheaper cause to the problem LOL. Once last week the engine actually stalled when i pulled up and depressed the clutch, drive fine otherwise and holds idle speed once it finds it.... could there be a simple answer like choked air filter ect?

Cheers for any advice
Leigh.P

Hi, possible a o2 sensor, but first, has the car had a servis, fuel filter, oil filter, oil change,points and
plugs? if it hasnt had a `good servis` for a-while would be looking in that direction first,

Greetings all,

Today it stopped raining long enough for me to check a few bits under the bonnet. The pillars in my dizzy cap are eaten away, the rotor arm looks like a rusty iron nail and the air filter was full of crap. I've cleaned stuff up for now and shall renew at the weekend.

Anyway i also took the opertunity to check the fault codes as suggested by Ray405. The codes are as follows:- 3,2,3,5,4,1

The sequence repeats over and over after that so i guess that is all it wants to say. Can anyone interpret?

Thanks for your help.

Leigh.P


P.S where is the airflow sensor supposed to be? There is a hole in the top half of my filter housing upstream from the filter with nothing in it. It is just open to the outside world. Is there supposed to be a hole here or is this were the airflow sensor should be? If that is the case could a missing airflow sensor explain a low/slowly oscillating idle folowed by the ocasional stall? Car drives fine otherwise.

This post has been edited by nitrate: Jun 28, 2006 - 5:03 PM

If anybody has any pictures under the bonnet of a 3S-GE setup could they please post them as the years of dodgey mechanics working on my car has taken its toll i think. In perticular i'm interested in pictures showing the various sensors and wiring plugs/looms and were they go through supporting clips I know i'm asking a lot in here but i bet there are lots of people who want to know the same things. Afterall there is anougher thread on this forum with the exact same symtoms as i'm having. Unfortuatly the thread died out and the root of the problem was never really found or documented but it does say in that thread that the individual had an error code to say his airflow sensor was also duff. Hmmmm Anybody else had idle problems?

P.S I said earlier that the HT system was a bit neglected. After a clean there was no difference whatsoever and the engine has and never has had any signs of misfiring going on. Smooth as a baby bottem except for the idle.

Leigh.P

Hi mate, glad you were able to read the abs codes, ok, first thing first, like i said
in the above post and confirmed by your discreption, the car dose need a `full servis`
air filter, fuel filter, oil filter ht leads, and plugs and also a change of good quality oil, sounds
like the person before you hasnt bothered with the servises as things dont usually get that bad,

try and do `all` these at the same time as you may still have problems if you try and just
replace a few things!

as for the abs codes, they dont read in singles if you know what i mean, there is a slight pause
between each number to make-up a two digit number, ie your codes sound like: 32, 35, 41,
(will post up the meaning to these tommorow)

also the best place for cheap genuine toyota parts in the uk is: TBC, toyota, breakers, cornwall
dont know if youve heard of them, but they do new genuine toyoyta parts a fair bit cheaper than toyota
also the best place to go for good second hand parts, and exellent servis
(will give you address, if required)

also while your at it, may aswell check for any `error codes`
similar as the abs codes, but go to the `diagnostic port` and with the paper-clip, bridge the TE1-E1
`no need` to remove the `silver clip` to the front of the port as you did with the abs codes,
switch-on the ignition and count the ` engine light` if the light comes on at a steady rate of about 1
flash a second, it means everything is ok `fingers crossed` if not like the abs, you will get single
numbers that will make-up a two digit number,

hope this helps

This post has been edited by ray405: Jun 28, 2006 - 6:40 PM

alright mate, checked your `abs codes`

32, problem in front left, wheel speed sensor (WSS)
35, open in front left or rear right wheel speed sensor (WSS)
41, battery voltage too-low or too-high (under 9.5volts)
or over (16.2volts), check battery and charging system,

as far as the first two go, have you had any work done on the front left
of the car?
as they are quite easy to damage (and expensive) can try TCB

and for the last, from what youve said the car doesnt seem to have been
looked after as maybe as well has it should have been?
sounds like a cheap fix tho, as its probable just a duff battery,

greetings,


Cheers for the info... i'll post the engine faults if any tommorow when i get chance to check them. As for the ABS i know the light has been on for the last year, and about the same time the clutch was replaced. I'm thinking the sensors were disturbed when the clutch was done as somebody else on anougther forum has also had this happen. Hopefully it will just be either the sensors are disconnected or the plugs/sockets have been stressed causing failure. Both should be easy to sort out, otherwise i'll have to find a scrappy near me whome has a celica to pull the sensors off. I'm still a bit miffed about the hole in my filterbox...... can you shed any light on that? Would it help if i post piccys of my car and engine bay?

Thanks
Leigh.P

Together i'm sure we can beat this illusive problem...........

Hi,

I checked the engine codes and none are present. The check engine light just came on and stayed on. I'm still unsure about this hole in the airfilter box top cover. Should i block it up with a cork or somthing?

Leigh.P

Hi mate, yes, if the car has had work done on it, like you say
especally the clutch, then 9/10 the abs sensor will get damaged
and as for a good breakers for `new` and used parts TCB (toyota cornwall breakers)
will be the only number you will need! theyer the cheapest for new parts and they
are all `genuine toyota` great servis and you can get all the hard to find bits there
usually, and as for your `air-box` without a pic, im pretty sure that its not suposed to have
any holes at all, its a possibility that some one has made the hole or holes, to get the induction
`noise` that you get with a `cone type` filter,
ive seen it done before but usually ther are a few hole drilled into the airbox
possible solution is replace the box, which should be quite cheap at TCB
or remove the box and replace with a `cone or mushroom filter` a word of warning
thou, if you do get a `cone filter` they a quite loud, so if you drive the car regularly
you may want to bare that in-mind,
so give TCB a ring for the part your looking for thyer servis is A1
tel: 01579 383879

also will try and get a link for theyer site for you

This post has been edited by ray405: Jul 2, 2006 - 10:34 AM

Hi,


Thanks for the number, the website address will be handy too. This hole is not a home made one. It is properly moulded into the box as if it is to hold somthing and it has raised sides both inside and out. If i can remember i'll take a piccy tommorow when i get home from work. Do you know were i can tech info on the car then i can properly diagnose and find the sensors?

Have fun,
Leigh.P

any luck with pics mate?

At last the battries in my digicam finnaly held out long enough to get some pics. The first pic is a general view of the engine so you know which one i have.




And this is the strange hole in my air box.




I think i should just block it up. The bad idle on my engine is getting worse now and it is also starting to sound exhausty. I am starting to get power loss as well. I've been into a garage to have the exhaust checked but no leaks even though it sounds like it. The guy at the garage said the cat may have collapsed but he does not have any way of checking it. What do you guys think? Also my spark plugs are fine as i've had a look. Platinum plugs with pin-type electrodes, a fine coating of grey residue, no oil ect. Please Help!!


Regards
Leigh.P

Anyone any ideas how to sort my idle out? Seems if the engine is idleing correctly at traffic lights and i give it a quick blip on the throtttle the revs fall, slowing down where it should be idleing, then miss the target and go way too low, somtimes into stalling territory. The idle then slowly rises back up to were it should be. I can't figure it out...

Leigh.P

i dont know about your main problem but i think the starnge hole in your air box is for your O2 sensor....

then again i could be wrong...i have a 7A

as in the above post, the hole is for a sensor, i also think its for a EFM sensor
there should be a electrical connector attached with a `cone shaped plug` which goes
into the filter inside the box, cant see why yours doesnt have one, also could be the
reason your haveing problems with the idle, as when you give it some throttle, the car
is not registering the air-flow properly,

This post has been edited by ray405: Jul 9, 2006 - 11:33 AM

The "strange" hole is where your Air Temperature sensor should be. Also about the oil light.