So in between waiting for parts to come in, i decided to see what wiring would be necessary to make the swap work 100%. So far (to my extreme pleasure) it looks like 99% will be plug and play. It looks like the only parts i need to wire in are the intercooler pump and fuel resistor/relay, can anyone confirm I didnt miss
any obscure wiring? I plan to unloom and unpin the relay box/pump wires that go to connector EA1 from the clip and simply pin them in the the EA1 on my original harness, sound like a good idea?

Also i plan to wire in the cruise control, seems like all i need to do is run a wire from the CC ecu to the IDL pin on the ecu, everything else should be plug and play, has anyone done this?

I haven't done the ST205 swap yet, but from what I've seen and heard it should be mostly plug and play. The only two things I would be concerned about would the the wiring of the C/OPN relay, and the length of the harness.

-Doc

I think i got the circuit open relay wiring covered by adding in the relay box from the clip that goes right to connector EA1. the intercooler pump wiring also runs with that relay box and must be added since the IC pump and relay connect to the ECU through the engine room harness connector EA1.

As for the harness length, think it would be easier to lengthen the harness with cut and solder (quick solder connectors) for the whole length or cut a hole in the firewall by the ECU and only cut and solder extend the connector(IM1) to the a/c subharness. I have access to wire harness grommets from my job for plan B, but i want to have the most profesional looking job. i dont know how it would look to extend and rerun the harness from the left side of the firewall back over to the right.

good gob man. keep us updated on how things go!

If you truly want to do it 100% correct, you'll want to un-loom the harness and move the wires individually to match the routing of the harness for your LHD car. You will have to extend a number of wires, but you can borrow wires from your original harness. Make sure that you use shielded wires when necessary (you'll only have to worry about the cam/crank position signals all the others are long enough).

It will take you a bunch more time to do it this way, but it will look and act 100% stock if you do it that way. If you get a clip, you'll be able to figure this stuff out by just looking at the clip. Take lots of pictures of it in the clip before disassembly!

Oh, watch out for the one light-green/black wire that goes to the fan relay. That's probably the only hard-to run wire you'll have to add (you already know about the water pump and fuel pump relay stuff). I'm not sure if its necessary, but I wired it up on my swap just in case.

-Charlie

PS. Make sure you use real solder and heat shrink tubing. Quick connectors or crimp connectors can fail and make ugly fat spots in the wire harness.

Thanks for the feedback, i see the wire your talking about, LG-B goes to the ECU via EA1 pin 9 on the 5sfe. shouldent have to wire that up since it doesnt run to the ECU on the 3s. but now im curious as to what pin 9 in EA1 runs to in the 3s harness...

pin 9 normally goes to the water temp sensor loacated on the GT radiator. if you have an ST, then you would have to add that in on your own, i believe.

keep us updated on your progress. id really love to know exactly what needs to be rewired in a 3rd gen swap. it seems like a really easy wire job.

i see the LG-B wire runs from the ECU to the fan relays and ac / water temp switch on the GT.
http://www.celicatech.com/vfewdsou/1995/95...ectric/rfcf.pdf

however on the 3sgte diagram
http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb.../EWD/EWD-32.jpg
the splice doesnt exist, the LG-B wire doesnt run to the ECU. BUT when i looked at connector EA1 pin 9 on the clip i have, there is a LG-B wire that runs to one of the body connectors in the engine harness section, and the other end runs into the engine room harness toward the right side of the vehicle. i guess ill look further down the harness tomorrow to see where it runs. definately just spent like 3 hours looking at the 3sgte diagrams trying to find EA1 9 heh.

the 2nd diagram is really hard to read. did you happen to find one that was a higher resolution?

can you take a pic of what you mean when you say that it runs to one of the body connectors? as well as a photo of the fuse box, ecu and interrior plugs?

one thing to remember (not sure you know this or not), but you are looking at EA1 pin 9 MALE. the male end goes through the wiring thats part of the chasis of the car and ends up in that passengers side relay box. so all that wiring is already done for you. then it looks like it goes through the female end to the ecu's "CF" fucntion. if you have a pinout of the 3rd gen ecu, should should be just able to find that function on the new ecu and wire it into the right pin, if its not already done.

EDIT: also, if you look at the diagram youll noticed "1*" that states that the wiring is only like that for the 5sfe. is your car/shell an ST or GT?

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 30, 2006 - 11:37 PM

Ok well i solved the problem, that i created myself heh. i had unloomed the wiring for the swap motor and the connector that LG-B from pin 9 went to was indeed the ECU connector B (looked like one of the body harness connectors while unlooomed!!), and it does Pin up to CF on the ECU pinout. so in fact it does wire up exactly like the 5sfe and i wont have to touch it anyway, the 94 st205 wire diagram from celicatech simply omitted that wire. oh well, thanks anyways for the help!

PS I drive a GT (see title!)

>
I have the ST205 diagrams for the Euro ST205 from eBay... It has that wire in it. I though it might be so the ECU can control the cooling fans if it so desires, so I hooked it up. (thus the "CF" designation - I think it means cooling fans). Or is it so the ECU knows when the cooling fans are on? I don't know.

-Charlie

I just did the st205 wiring to st. My fans stay on constant (Something in the ea1 9 pin to water temp) ?I thought that it might help cool down the engine bay...LOL. and Ac does not work..but to get the engine to run and gages to work all that needs to be repined is the II-1 or II-2 plug under the dash clutch start wire black on the 3s harness to blk on the body side. All engine functions will work, very easy and saved lots of money just took lots of help from 6 gc. wire in the resistor or jump fp form COR. I think there is also a post on this site about how to get the ac working correctly too. It sounds sooo mean when the turbo spools!!! Lance

the reason why you fans stay on all the time is because you have an ST. the ST radiator dosnt have a temp sensor inside of it, so you would need to get a GT radiator with a temp sensor to fix the problem.