Hey guys,

Just wanted to get some advice on what tools should be on the must have if you plan on doing all your own work on your celica? I haven't really read through all that much of the BGB, just skimmed parts. I have never really undertaken all that much of my own work on my own vehicles, but would like to start doing all my own work so I don't keep paying the big bucks for simply jobs.

So basically, what are the list of tools that should be purchased. Below is what I was thinking of purchasing, but please let me know your thoughts and opinions. I don't really need to know about brands, since everyone has their own opinion and I have read quite a few of yours about Craftsman, Snapon, Stanley, Mac, etc., I will form my own opinion from my own research (plus I have my own opinions already!)

3/8" torque wrench (~25-250 in.lb. torque)
1/2" torque wrench (~30-250 ft.lb. torque)
3/8" and 1/2" Metric Hex Bit Socket Set (#10,12,14,17,19) <-- I believe most of the bolt on our car are metric. Any others?
3/8" and 1/2" ratchet + breaker bar
Spark Plug socket
Extensions

Please add to the list what other tools you would recommend or delete from my list.

get a craftsman 150 piece tool set. its like 100bucks and does pretty much everything on the car.

you only really need one torque wrench. i have the 1/2in one that can do 20-180lb (i think).

the whole car is pretty much, 10m, 12m, 14,17m, 19m, 24m, and 30m.

also get your self a set of craftsman bolt outs. its like 30-40buck and they will save you ass if you work on the car a lot.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 10, 2006 - 3:12 PM

I was thinking that the spark plugs would need a lower torque wrench, isn't is like 12-14 lb's or something like that? Anything else that would be say lower than 20-30 range?

I was thinking of this Craftsman set. The only concern I have is that the 1/2" drive sockets are 12 point, is it not advised to get 6 point so you don't strip the bolts?

This post has been edited by WALKER: Aug 10, 2006 - 3:17 PM

yeah... 12point sockets are evil. try to avoid them if you can. my 150set also came with 12point 1/2in ... kind of makes me wonder what craftsman was thinking when they made that decision.

as far as the spark plugs... i normally just do them by feel. tight but not too tight.

thats a good price on that 200piece set.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 10, 2006 - 3:25 PM

i'd say save up for a good air compressor and go all air tools
and use your standard socket set for all small jobs.

If you're just starting off don't mess with air tools just yet.
Get a feel for how stuff comes apart and goes together.

I agree 6 point is much better, but 12 point has it's uses.
When you need one, you NEED one.

Most wrench sets only come in 12 point.

Spark plugs are supposed to be 13 ft/lbs. I do the feel method also. Make sure you use antiseize on the threads.

Lagos is right on with the sizes.
I wouldn't worry too much about 30mm right now though.
Once you need one [for axles and valve cover nuts for the 5SFE] you can pick one up.
24 isn't very common either. And for the record, there are some 21s also. PS and AC lines.

Once you are used to how bolts go in, and how they feel when they are tight, you won't need the torque wrench much at all. I only use it on heads, my aluminum wheels, manifolds sometimes. Mainly aluminum stuff.

A hammer is nice to have.
As is a tap and die set. You will want to start small with that one.
Craftsman is ok, but MAC/SnapOn is MUCH better quality for those. They cut alot better.
Cheater pipe.
Wrenches. Line wrenches are VERY handy to have when you need one.
Test light, or if you're feeling frisky, a multimeter.
Down the road a timing light is good.
You will need an 8mm for certain things.
If you ever mess with any airbag stuff, some of it takes Torx bits.
You shouldn't need much in the way of Allen wrenches. I can't think of anything other than the diff plugs in some Toyotas that need them.
A jewlers screwdriver [flat tip]. Good for helping to disconnect electrical connectors.
#2? phillips. Long and short.
Also a rounded off cheap flat tip is good to help get interior pieces up.
Needle nose pliers.
Wire cutters and crimpers.
Large and small Vice Grips.

I'm trying to keep the list small for you to start, so I'll stop there.

Crap.
Almost forgot.

For brakes, a C clamp is good to push the piston back in, and bungee cords [short] are good to hang the caliper on.

>

Hey don't worry about keeping the list small, list away! That is a great list, thanks for the input. Quite a few of the items that you listed I do already have. I do have some tools, just want to get more!

As for air tools, I don't feel like getting into that at all...at least not right now. I much rather feel it myself and do it myself.

As for a tap and die set, are they quite easy to use? I guess I am wondering if I would be able to tap the exhaust manifold for an EGT myself?

Once again, keep the list coming if people have other things they think of.

>

i got some ski-masks, we should get a 6gc crew together and rob the SnapOn truck


just make sure that whatever it is you get is made with:
chrome vanadium steel sockets

that stuff is hard as nails, and generally wont break or strip from the general abuse you can give it

This post has been edited by puretone: Aug 11, 2006 - 12:20 AM

An electric impact gun with a heap of available torque is a nice thing from time to time. Good investment for the price and it makes life so much easier.
As far as tools, either Craftsman (lifetime warranty and replacement) or Snap-on. Both are great brands.

Heres some biggies-

Mechanics gloves
Eye protection (rust in your eye feels bad.)
Solid floor jack/jack stands
Several cheater bars to get nice torque (I have a sewer lid puller and a galvanized pipe thats about 6 feet long .)
Sturdy breaker bars and adapters
Soldering iron
Zip ties, Duct tape
Needle-Nose


The list goes on....however safety is key, and the better equiped for the job you are the easier it will be on yourself physically and mentally.

everyone say it with me:

"airtools"

enough said.


yeah a 150 piece craftsman set will do u fine.

This post has been edited by devilsden97: Aug 11, 2006 - 12:29 AM

>

CORDLESS soldering iron
good grinder with lots of cut-off wheels
fix-all hammer

my necesary tools hehehehe

you gents forgot



And your set

air tools are bad news when you are first starting out. youll end up striping all your bolts and you cant always use them for everything. they should be something you look into down the road, once you start working on the car a lot.

>

get a basic metric tap and die set. i got one at a local hardware store for 30bucks. why do you need one? its a great tool to use to fix striped threads. you can just go over an existing bolt that dosnt want to smoothly go in, and clean the threads off. should be able to fix most stuff this way, for the really damaged ones you can get a heilcoil kit. just remember that tap and die sets are measured by the thread size and not the bolts head. so you need something like a 4m-10m 1.25 for most of the bolts.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 11, 2006 - 12:45 AM

one of my best buys was a GOOD jack, a set of jackstands, and wheel chocks.





>
yes, however, if your not experienced with doing it, i wouldnt try the exhaust manifold.
the metal is quite brittle, and suprizingly thin in the area in probe needs to be placed, and if your not really carefull, you can easily ruin the threads.

Honestly, buy what you need when you need it. Start out with a 150 piece or so tool set like a Craftsman, a jack and jackstands, a creeper (TRUST ME on this one), and a 1/2" torque wrench with a reversible 1/2" to 3/8" adapter (AWESOME little tool). This should be enough to get you through most of what you're going to come up against.

Then, purchase what you need as you find that you need it. Like me personally, I've accumulated standard and metric allen head sockets, a torx bit set, reversible ratcheting wrenches, various pliers set, exhaust pipe expansion tool set, larger wrenches and sockets (think like 7/8", 1 1/4" wrenches and a 1 1/4" socket), 1/2" socket extensions, ect.

And don't skimp on the tool or box either. But good stuff to start with and buy it once. Craftsman, Snap-On, Mac, Matco, and I've heard that Husky (Lowes brand) is made by Craftsman also.

Well thanks guys for all the help. This information will be good to fill in my tool set. I do have quite a few big wrenches already, like the 1 1/4", used that one last night to change my hot water heater anode rod!

I guess what I am hearing is that you should only need one torque wrench (1/2"), since the only thing that really requires lower torque is the spark plugs, which most people do by feel anyways.

I do also have jack stands and blocks, they are very useful. One other piece of advice, do you guys know of a good low profile jack that will get under a lowered car? Right now I have to either drive up on 2x4's or jack up one side in order to get a jack under the front.

This post has been edited by WALKER: Aug 11, 2006 - 8:43 AM

a good thing to do if you dont have a low profile jack is to get a couple "patio blocks" from home depot or lowes...just like the 2x4, just a little more secure.

>

Craftsman Aluminum......it's about $150 or so when it's on sale. I just got one from my gang of friends for my birthday last month, and it even makes it under my Vette. No problems getting under the Celica with the 18's and S-Tech's on it either. WELL worth the money in my opinion. And it's only about 40 lbs too, which is a tremendous plus.

>

and no one thinks thats funny...oh well

I know this is a little bit old, but I wanted to add a bit to it.
Mainly just for FYI.

First off, regarding tool brands.
There is more to a tool than a lifetime garauntee, or even weather or not it breaks, regardless of said garauntee. Also, how long it lasts [not so much breaking, but stuff like sockets wearing out inside, wrenches doing the same thing, ect], how well it fits the part it's removing [accuracy of machining], the actual design of it [Not all wrenches are the same angle or length, even comparing exact size/type wrenches. Some are easier to break nuts/bolts loose than others] and how ergonomic it is.
This stuff matters alot to me because I'm a tech. I make a living using tools. To you in your driveway, it might not matter as much. It still did to me. I hated using crappy tools.
If you are going to get Craftsman, get the professional stuff. It is made better than the regular tools.
However, though Craftsman tools are pretty good, they are not as good as Mac, Snap On/BluePoint, Cornwell, and to some extent, Matco. And probably some other more expensive brands I don't know about. Weather or not you want to pay the premium price for these better tools is up to you. I just want you to know the difference.
And I wouldn't suggest Huskey. They're better than some tools, but definitly a step down from Craftsman.

As far as tap/dies.
Once again, quality matters. I have had Craftsman sets [due to lack of $$$ most of mine still are], but the Mac, SnapOn, and ones I get from by buddies machine shop are DEFINITLY a step up. They cut MUCH faster/cleaner/smoother. It's a noticeable difference. But you will pay the $$$.
Regarding sizes.
The vast majority of Toyota sizes are
6 x 1.0
8 x 1.25
10 x 1.25

So no need to go out and buy a large set just yet.
This will cover most of the repairs you will do for now.
One exception.
The dist cap bolts are 4 x x.xx I don't remember off the top of my head.
But they can come in useful if you need them.
Also, 12 x 1.25/1.50 is nice to have.

If all you are working on is your Celica [or any foreign car], you need NO standard sizes.
Stick with metric. They will fit better, so you're less apt to strip a nut/bolt head.

Of all the tools in my garage and room, this tool kiked a55!



YES! It's your Trust-Worthy PiPe used for levrage, hitting, smashing wasps, transfering liquids, hammer and even a weapon. Def, a must have in your car!

That Dan guy is pretty much a tool.

8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 18mm, 22mm sockets
grease
rags
patience
and of course a



This post has been edited by LewFX: Aug 18, 2006 - 6:48 PM

Dont buy cheap tools...they are a complete waste of money and you`ll just end up loosing skin off your knuckles when they slip or break.

dont forget a 36mm socket for the crank pully
a crank puller
wire brush
timing gun
compression tester
lithium grease
brake bleeding kit
volt tester
inspection mirror
trolley jack (the most expensive you can afford)
axel stands x4
2x10" extension bars for 1/2" drive socket set
rubber mallet
lots of WD40
circlip pliers.

>

Good Lord.
What engine is that for?
A 700 CI desiel?

S series crank pulleys should be 21mm. Or possibly 19. But I believe it's 21.

Doh...dont know what I was thinking when I typed that, I meant to say 36mm socket for the wheel hub nuts

Hubs should be 30mm.......

12 point are very good to have & to pull head blots (4age) the most un common tool is the axle size socket ...

mighty vac.
for ANY type of brake or clutch or whatever bleeding, its THE tool to have.
also good for vacume tests.

I'm going to retract a previous statement. I mentioned about getting a 1/2" torque wrench and a reversible 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. Scratch the adapter. I snapped my second one in as many months yesterday. First time I tried to use it too. Just get a set of 1/2" extensions and be happy, and pick up the 1/2" sockets while you're at it.