I was going to try to keep this a trade secret, but after thinking it over I decided that while I will still probably produce these for anyone who wants one, I would just give the design to the community. So you guys can copy this if you want, if you want me to make you one, then I will.

This is the wastegate bracket that I designed so that I can clock the turbo on 3SGTE engines.


What we have here is the bracket, two longer bolts which replace the ones that go on either side of the started (from the transmission side), two spacer nuts, two small bolts for the wastegate actuator, and two nuts for the bracket itself.



Here we see the modification that must be made to the actuator rod. This shape has worked well in all of the tests that I've done. The finished length is exactly 7 3/8".



Here we can see the longer bolts installed through the tranny, and then the large spacer nuts, followed by the bracket, and nuts that holds it tight. The bracket seems thin in this picture, but when it's all installed it's very strong.



Then the actuator is installed between the bracket and the tranny, and the bolts are installed through the bracket and they bolt into the stock locations on the actuator.



Here is another view. You can see that you have to wait until this is all installed before you can reinstall the compressor housing of the turbo. Also in this view, you can see that the part of the water line housing that used to bolt to the compressor has been cut off. I have always removed it and it functions fine without the extra support.



And now two pics of the finished product with the housing installed. You can rotate the outlet on the housing so that it faces where you need it to very easily.





Comments?

nice job.

another amazing post =) keep them coming

How much do you charge for the bracket?

good job tweek.
can you install this with the compressor housing on?

>
>

>

no, use needle nose pliers to remove the snap ring. inside the compressor housing you will see a tiny roll pin,(remove it to be able to clock the turbo, with it still in the housing will not completely seat back on the unit/ snap ring will not fit all the way, wheel will hit housing aswell) and on the (dont know the tech term here) but the plate backing that the wheel is with, theres a hole or notch if you will, so the turbo is faceing the corret direction for the TMIC in stock forms.

>
teehee im not the sharpest pencil in the box..
>
good info man, thanks.
i've always been a little scared of opening up my turbo since i got it back from ATS. lol shoulda opened it up before.

so wait... this bracket bolts to the tranny?

ive also seen it done where people make a different style of bracket thats ticker and bolts to the compressor housing.

>

That's how I did the first one that I made, but the problem with that is it's much harder to fit, and often times the stock bracket has to be cut, modified, welded, etc. This way it pretty much bolts right up.

I would probably have a batch of these made up by a machine shop, and I will most likely use slightly thicker metal for the retail version. I doubt that I will charge any more than $30 shipped for them including all the nuts and bolts, unless they turn out to be a lot more expensive to make then I expected.

-Doc

wow... great info
How come this is not a sticky yet?

dr tweak... can u make me one?? if so how much would you want

What's the purpose of being able to clock a turbo?

>

easier intercooler plumbing

Interesting positioning.
Good thinking.

>

I'll make the whole kit for you including shipping for $150. That's a few hours of my time and pretty much free materials. If there were a lot of people out there who wanted these, then I might have a machine shop build me 100 of them and sell them cheap, but most people don't want to mess with it.

If you want to see some sick intercooler piping, wait until I finish the Celica that's in my shop right now. I'll have pics in a week or two.

-Doc

ok sweet.. ill wait for a lil bit to see what im going to do (whether im keeping the ct26 or gettin some bigger) thanks

Please excuse my ignorance on this subject but will removing the compressor housing effect the balance of the Turbo? Meaning is it a safe mod for people who don't know how to balance their own turbos but are mechanically inclined.

>
I havent got mine torn down yet, But I believe removing the housing and turning it wont affect anything that is spinning. So balance isn't an issue.

That's correct, as you can see in those pics, removing the compressor housing does not do anything with the compressor WHEEL, which is the part that is balanced.

-Doc

>


just to add on this. each component of a turbo is balanced seperatly, so even if you take it apart to service it, you can put everything back together without balancing.

usually places that claim "balancing" are full of it because all of the components are pre-balanced. even if they do have blancing equipment, most balancing occurs under 70,000 rpm which most turbos operate at well over 100,000 rpm at any significant boost level.

usually balancing is needed on really expensive turbos with custom parts. if there is anything wrong with your run of the mill t3/t4 or mid fram mitusbishi, its cheaper to buy the component that is damaged, instead of balancing a damaged unit.

Would you happen to have any brackets still 10 years later?