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hm.. this is kinda both engine and FI question... but i think i'll just put it here:

I had a compression test done today just to see how my engine is doing...
1st-150
2nd-150
3rd-140
4th-150

brand new engine would be approx 180 or so psi... but my numbers are still acceptable right?

i think anything above 100 is fine for stock engine and anything above 130 is fine for turbo engine?

my engine has about 100000miles on it...

even though these numbers are acceptable... is it necessary to take a further look into it?

with these numbers would it be safe to go FI?

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BGB says:
Compression pressure: 178psi or more
Minimum pressure: 142psi
Difference between cylinder: 14psi or less

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i would do a leakdown test before going any further with those results.
did you do the test yourself?

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the BGB spec is for a NEW engine, keep that in mind. it should be 178 or better when rebuilt, not at 100K+ miles. 150 is a little low, but i wouldnt say its indicative of a bad engine, just a worn engine.

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o, ic. reason was i seen so many people post their numbers which were around 180 and their engines were all over 100k miles

>The wet compression check is a follow up check useful to determine the condition of the piston rings. Some perform it every time they perform a compression check, others do not. I perform it when I see lower than expected readings, especially if it is only one cylinder. The common instructions are, "pour one teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and test". Frankly, I always spill oil all over when I try to pour it from a tea spoon into a spark plug hole and, then to compound the problem, always get caught trying to sneak the wife's teaspoon back into the house. Then, I learned a better way. Get one of the pump type oil cans and find out how many strokes of the plunger it takes to fill one, level teaspoon full. Then, you can insert the spout of the oil can and depress the plunger the required number of times without making a mess. Insert the oil into number one spark plug hole and repeat the compression test on that cylinder, note your reading under the "wet" column and repeat for the other cylinders. The wet compression check will, in most cases, be higher than the dry compression check. This is because the oil creates a better seal against the top of the piston rings and the cylinder bore. The LOWER the difference in readings between the dry and wet checks, the better the condition of the bores and rings.

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er... i'm tryin to do a wet comp test myself but i can't pull the EFI fuse out and which ignition coil plug do i pull out? i just tried to pull the top one on the left side of it and it wouldn't come off...

am i just really weak or is there some kinda trick to get these off?

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use the puller on the inside of your fuse box cover in your engine bay.
pull the coil wire @ the coil (its the center plug)

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er... for the ignition coil.. there's like 4 plugs right? if u are standing at the front of your car, it's 2 on the right side (beside each other) and 2 on the left side right (on top of eacho ther)?... when you say pull the coil wire @ the coil (center plug)... which one is it?

in the bgb there is an ignition coil resistance test and there is a primary and secondary ignition resistance test... i've been trying to pull the primary one... is that the right one?

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the center wire on your distributor cap is the coil wire. you can unplug it there, or follow the wire back to the coil and unplug it there.

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all you need to do is...
pull the EFI fuse and take the spark plugs out.

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did he pull all the sparkplugs?

now im worried about #2. run several wet and dry tests back to back, you could have a leak between 2 and 3 in the gasket or something is warped.