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1st plug wire keeps popin off? - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #41221 26 posts Started by 95celgt
Hey guys, i just installed brand new oem ingnition coil, cap, rotor, and oem plug wires.

For some reason, the No.1 wire keeps popin out, i didnt have this problem with the nology's?
i hear the "click", i pull it, it doesnt come out. I rev it a bit it doesnt pop out. I take it around the block, and it pops out!......im mad.gif



Old topic:
Hey guys, the car for some reason doesnt turn off when i pull out the key!

The motor just keeps running even though everything else turns off like its supposed to, what went wrong?
Is it the EFI relay?

This post has been edited by 95celgt: Sep 22, 2006 - 9:42 AM
nah bro since your car is turboed....the 3s is in a cool down period. Then eventually it would cut off. Most turboed cars do this such as the eclipse GST

I'am Reinventing the SLow Lane.....
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QUOTE(celica47 @ Sep 17, 2006 - 2:20 AM) [snapback]480620[/snapback]
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nah bro since your car is turboed....the 3s is in a cool down period. Then eventually it would cut off. Most turboed cars do this such as the eclipse GST



they only do that if u have an after market turbo timer installed. some alarm systems have them too .

if u dont have any of those and it still wont turn off, then u have a wiring problem

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
Not to hijack....but isnt that a must for any turboed car?

I'am Reinventing the SLow Lane.....
it's not a must, but it's just recommended. After a hard run, you want to let the turbo cool down before shutting off your car. If it was a must, then the car would've come with a turbo timer (speaking of the alltrac). But even on the sunvisor of the Alltrac it is recommended to let the turbo cool down (pretty much telling you to get a turbo timer).
look, i have the hks turbo timer, but even that doesnt sense the cut-off, like i turned it off and it still does it, and i know the alarm doesnt do it.

I even took off both battery cables and it keeps running!
tell us when it shuts off......

KawiLove
see, this happened when i pulled the little 15A "EFI" fuse to turn it off, because i closed the locked door while it was running and i dont have spare keys, luckily the hood wasnt on, but I dont know whats goin on. The mechanic tried pulling out the EFI relay, and couldnt, do you think he messed it up?
the problem is with your turbo timer. either your not using it correctly or its broken.

your car will run off the altinator if u disconnect the battery.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
lagos, i know how to use the turbo timer, i COMPLETLY shut it off and it stays running.

I notice that there is always current running through where the EFI 15A fuse is, so im guessing the mechanic broke the relay?
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QUOTE(95celgt @ Sep 17, 2006 - 2:52 AM) [snapback]480636[/snapback]
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lagos, i know how to use the turbo timer, i COMPLETLY shut it off and it stays running.

I notice that there is always current running through where the EFI 15A fuse is, so im guessing the mechanic broke the relay?


i think if the relay was damaged then the car would have problems turning on as well as turning off. i would recomend uninstalling the turbo timer, just to rule that out as a possible cause.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
try stalling on purpose.

ss-iii splitters and 404 skirts areon. which means i need to update my sig.
everything works normal now:)

I just disconnected the battery overnight.
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QUOTE(celica47 @ Sep 17, 2006 - 2:24 AM) [snapback]480624[/snapback]
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Not to hijack....but isnt that a must for any turboed car?


a turbo timer is only needed if you have an OIL ONLY cooled turbo....the reason is that it keeps the motor running to drop oil temps so that it doesn't bake and coke inside the turbo...

most OEM cars are both oil and water cooled, there is no need for a turbo timer here as the water cooling option prevents any oil from damage...thus no turbo timer is needed
(you can also get oil/water cooled turbos aftermarket)

This post has been edited by playr158: Sep 18, 2006 - 11:47 AM
new question, refer to 1st post.
pull the plug, i'll bet that the ceramic has seperated from the metal and the plug is allowing gases past and blowing the plug boot off.

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Next time start a new thread. This topic has nothing to do with the original.

Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
yea, im just trying to save some space considering i have quite a few threads....
I have the same problem every now and then, I think the seal between my valve cover and my spark plug hole is bad, because I get a little bit of oil in the hole as well.
well, this happens EVERY time i move the car, and it doesnt happen with my old nology hotwires, only the oem, and it cant be the seal because it was just replaced along with the whole re-build.
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QUOTE(95celgt @ Sep 22, 2006 - 2:02 PM) [snapback]482657[/snapback]
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well, this happens EVERY time i move the car, and it doesnt happen with my old nology hotwires, only the oem, and it cant be the seal because it was just replaced along with the whole re-build.



if you just bought the oem wires, take them back and have them exchange them for you.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
they dont return ignition components at toyota
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QUOTE(95celgt @ Sep 22, 2006 - 3:07 PM) [snapback]482675[/snapback]
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they dont return ignition components at toyota



if you just bought it....and it dosnt grip the plug correctly, then they should exhange it for you.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
did you ever pull the plug to make sure it wasnt a broken plug?

2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
eh my no3 pop'd off enough before that i had to pull over... and no2 gets loose once in a while. make sure the plugs are tq to the right amount. use some dielectric grease too.
it wasnt the plug, i tried that same cable in the no2 and it would pop of too easy, so im getting another set.