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Swapped wiring problem - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #42373 24 posts Started by 6gsillyca
6gsillyca
#1
I have a thread in the electrical sub-forum, but figured my problem is swap-wiring related.

Im trying to pull some codes from the ECU and I cant get the CEL to come on. The bulb is not burnt and the cluster itself is good so Ive narrowed it down to a problem in the cars wiring, somewhere. There are 2 other lights that dont come on (cruise and oil) but am not worried about these. I was told the cruise works but havent actually tried it yet, and there is an oil pressure gauge hooked up. No big deal. The one I need is the CEL...


Can anyone tell me if there is another way to pull codes w/o using the CEL

or

Is there another way to get the CEL to come on


Sorry for all the confusion
lagos
#2
who did your harness?
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
WannabeGT4
#4
Jamasco did the wiring.
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
WannabeGT4
#5
To do this without the CEL of the combonation meter just put a test light between +B and W of the dignostic box and then bridge TE1 and E1. Count the flashes on the test light.
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
6gsillyca
#6
>
QUOTE
> To do this without the CEL of the combonation meter just put a test light between +B and W of the dignostic box and then bridge TE1 and E1. Count the flashes on the test light.


Thanks, this is what I was looking for
jgreening
#7
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QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Oct 20, 2006 - 2:50 AM) [snapback]494035[/snapback]
>
I have a thread in the electrical sub-forum, but figured my problem is swap-wiring related.

Im trying to pull some codes from the ECU and I cant get the CEL to come on. The bulb is not burnt and the cluster itself is good so Ive narrowed it down to a problem in the cars wiring, somewhere. There are 2 other lights that dont come on (cruise and oil) but am not worried about these. I was told the cruise works but havent actually tried it yet, and there is an oil pressure gauge hooked up. No big deal. The one I need is the CEL...


Can anyone tell me if there is another way to pull codes w/o using the CEL

or

Is there another way to get the CEL to come on


Sorry for all the confusion


The cruise works and the light does come on. Sometimes the cruise controller arm seperates at the end and needs to be pushed back together. I always meant to superglue that part but just never got around to it since you can just snap it back in place.

I don't know about the oil light.

QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
6gsillyca
#8
Where on the end neds to be puched back in?

jgreening
#9
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QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Oct 25, 2006 - 1:12 AM) [snapback]495827[/snapback]
>
Where on the end neds to be puched back in?


Take a look at it....you will see what I mean.
QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
6gsillyca
#10
Ok, when I pick her up from the shop ill do that. Would it not being connected cause it to not "click"? the on/off button did not "click" last time I checked it
jgreening
#11
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QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Oct 26, 2006 - 12:42 AM) [snapback]496219[/snapback]
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Ok, when I pick her up from the shop ill do that. Would it not being connected cause it to not "click"? the on/off button did not "click" last time I checked it


by "click" do you mean make a sound? It doesn't make a sound when it is engaged. The controller arm for the cruise pops open sometimes and then the cruise wont work. You can just snap it back in place and then its fine. Its no big deal but you could easily fix it forever by just using two drops of superglue.
QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
6gsillyca
#12
>
QUOTE(jgreening @ Oct 26, 2006 - 10:12 AM) [snapback]496323[/snapback]
>
by "click" do you mean make a sound? It doesn't make a sound when it is engaged. The controller arm for the cruise pops open sometimes and then the cruise wont work. You can just snap it back in place and then its fine. Its no big deal but you could easily fix it forever by just using two drops of superglue.


No, the button at the base (end) of the arm. On my GT-S, when I push it in, it "clicks" in and sits in a bit. Almsot like the climate buttons, when you push it "on" it clicks in and when you turn it off, it clicks out.
6gsillyca
#13
Back to original topic:

I tried what Wannabe said to do, bridge test light between B+ and W and a paperclip between e1 & te1, but the test light does not blink like the CEL should. It is just a solid light (no blinking).

Is there a way I can check the wiring harness to see if the CEL is hooked up properly?
WannabeGT4
#14
Have you asked Jay about how to check codes? I'm sure he could tell you... If all else fails you can do it right at the ECU. Just like I said to do at the diagnostic box. Bridge TE1 and E1 while putting a test light between +B and W.
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
6gsillyca
#15
I am asking him, but figured I would post here, just incase some of you know the answer also. Im going to assume all else did fail. The light in the dash doesnt come on (even when you turn the key to ON, all the other light light up but that one). Like I have posted before, I did try going straight to the ECU. I bridged B+ and W with the test light, and e1 and te1 with a paperclip. All that happened was the test light came on solid, no blinking.

A couple other things I noticed about the diag box is; there is some sort of grease smeared inside. Is this good? And the second is the terminals themselves. Some look like (uu) while other looks like their missing the terminal or only have half of it (u).


EDIT: I just recieved a PM from him regarding the matter, and he doesnt seem to know the answer. He has never had to pull any codes.
WannabeGT4
#16
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QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Oct 27, 2006 - 11:24 AM) [snapback]496783[/snapback]
>
I am asking him, but figured I would post here, just incase some of you know the answer also. Im going to assume all else did fail. The light in the dash doesnt come on (even when you turn the key to ON, all the other light light up but that one). Like I have posted before, I did try going straight to the ECU. I bridged B+ and W with the test light, and e1 and te1 with a paperclip. All that happened was the test light came on solid, no blinking.

A couple other things I noticed about the diag box is; there is some sort of grease smeared inside. Is this good? And the second is the terminals themselves. Some look like (uu) while other looks like their missing the terminal or only have half of it (u).


EDIT: I just recieved a PM from him regarding the matter, and he doesnt seem to know the answer. He has never had to pull any codes.


The grease in the diagnostic box is normal. Get a picture of the terminals. I can't figure out what you mean by they are missing or only have half of it.

I don't know if it matters but I'm pretty sure you have an MR2 ECU. Some of the pin locations at the ECU may be different. I'll check when I get home tonight and I'll show you EXACTLY what you need to do.
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
6gsillyca
#17
Yes, thank you. I do have a 93 mr2 ecu. if it matter the engine and tranny are from the same mr2 i believe.

EDIT: it is also the JDM ECU if that makes a difference

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Oct 27, 2006 - 8:08 PM
Dr_Tweak
#18
WOAH hold up. The W in the diagnostic block has power coming to it, it needs to be GROUNDED, not jumped to +B which is positive power. The ECU ground the W circuit when it needs to turn the CEL on, power comes down from the 15amp guage fuse (usually) and then to the light, then to the ECU and the diagnostic terminal.

-Doc
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
6gsillyca
#19
So to pull a code, Id need to bridge e1 and te1 w/ a paperclip. Put a wire into W and ground the other end somewhere, and then what?

Could my CEL not be coming on because the W circut in the ECU isnt grounded properly?

If I ground W and bridge e1/te1 will the CEL in the dash come on and flash?
WannabeGT4
#20
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QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Oct 27, 2006 - 8:01 PM) [snapback]496921[/snapback]
>
WOAH hold up. The W in the diagnostic block has power coming to it, it needs to be GROUNDED, not jumped to +B which is positive power. The ECU ground the W circuit when it needs to turn the CEL on, power comes down from the 15amp guage fuse (usually) and then to the light, then to the ECU and the diagnostic terminal.

-Doc


His CEL isn't working... so W won't have any power coming to it, that is why he is simulating the CEL with a test light between +B and W just like the original circuit... +12V to bulb then on to ECU pin W which is ground for the circuit when the CEL is on. If he just put a test light between W and chassis ground the light would stay lit constantly even if the ECU was trying to display codes.
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
WannabeGT4
#21
OK. Bridge TE1 and E1 (labeled in red) and then put a test light between W and +B (labeled in blue)
This will simulate bridging the TE1/E1 connection in the diagnostic box and will replicate the CEL circuit.
EDIT: Thought it'd be a good idea to mention that you should do this by back probing your harness plugs while they are still plugged into the ECU.
IPB Image

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Oct 28, 2006 - 12:42 AM
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WannabeGT4
#22
...

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Oct 28, 2006 - 12:42 AM
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
Dr_Tweak
#23
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QUOTE(WannabeGT4 @ Oct 28, 2006 - 4:32 AM) [snapback]496960[/snapback]
>
>
QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Oct 27, 2006 - 8:01 PM) [snapback]496921[/snapback]
>
WOAH hold up. The W in the diagnostic block has power coming to it, it needs to be GROUNDED, not jumped to +B which is positive power. The ECU ground the W circuit when it needs to turn the CEL on, power comes down from the 15amp guage fuse (usually) and then to the light, then to the ECU and the diagnostic terminal.

-Doc


His CEL isn't working... so W won't have any power coming to it, that is why he is simulating the CEL with a test light between +B and W just like the original circuit... +12V to bulb then on to ECU pin W which is ground for the circuit when the CEL is on. If he just put a test light between W and chassis ground the light would stay lit constantly even if the ECU was trying to display codes.


He tried that and it didn't work. Is the CEL not working because the ECU isn't turning it on, or because the light isn't working?

Does the CEL come on when you ground the W pin?

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Oct 28, 2006 - 12:18 AM
-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com
WannabeGT4
#24
Like he said, the bulb is fine and the cluster has power. It's not working because Jamasco didn't wire the CEL right. Doing it my way at the ECU will work just fine. If not, the transistor in the ECU that switches W to ground is probably toast and stuck on constantly or the wire that should be going to the check engine light is grounded... possibly the reason that Jamasco didn't wire up the CEL.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Oct 28, 2006 - 5:53 PM
Project ST204.5 99.88946% complete...
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