Hi guys, well its probably been covered 1000 times previously i tried to do search but couldnt find much probably didnt seach it properley. Anyway im looking to install a FMIC on my St205 , ive noticed there is a whole load of stuff where the FMIC would sit. I have got an FMIC and piping im just looking for some install tips and maybe some pics.
Your help would be appreciated.

cant help you too much, but just curious what did you buy for pipes and core? a kit or seperate components?

well the intercooler piping i have is 2.5" in diameter( Aluminium ). The intercooler sizes i cant really remember the dimensions i have had it for over a year from a previous project. I know that it is 3" in width anything less is just restrictive i think in height it is 14".

I did want to get the job done this weekend but i noticed behind the bumper there is a whole load of A/C stuff inc pipes etc. Can i retain a/c and go front mount?
i would appreciate any pics and help
thanks

Time to start hacking the bumper beam... There should be enough room to run the pipes and mount the core if you remove a good portion of the bumper beam on your car.

-Charlie

An FMIC of size 600mm (24”) x 300mm(12”) x 76mm(3”) with an End to End" Length of 800mm (32”) will go straight in easily after you remove the Charge cooler rad set-up. You may need to relocate the gearbox cooler tho, power steering cooler should fit fine between the FMIC & Rad.

Install tips would be:

Find a smooth piping route with as least bends as possible.
Clock the turbo.
Try to use hosing (Silicon hose) as pipe joiners as opposed to actual piping runs.
Make sure when using hoses that you have big enough rolled pipe ends so the clamps can hold the hoses tightly on the pipes.

No modification to front bumper needed, all that’s been done here is to remove the lower grill & down lines so the bumper can be filled with mesh & a few custom bling modifications

Engine pic, note turbo is still in the normal position & hasn’t been clocked yet.




Front bumper & FMIC measure up, note the vertical runs are being removed, not needed to fit the FMIC it’s being done for aesthetic reasons.



Good overview of the piping runs.


Pics are courtesy of Adam G.

Thanks just what i needed i have the correct size IC and piping bends thanks, so i wont need to remove anything but the gearbox cooler? where could i relocate that too?

As you look at the last pic it can go on the bottom right hand corner by the FMIC outlet so it can get an air feed from the hole in the bumper under the signal light or I know a few who have installed it by removing the middle under engine tray & connect it to the bottom of the X-member

Try & see if you get get it to fit between the FMIC & the rad first it might go back in, if not I would extend the oil lines a bit & go for the bottom right of the FMIC outlet

Doooooooooooh sorry, yeah there are a few bits you might have to remove to make the job easier.

Crash bar.
Air box.
Battery.
Turbo heat shield.

The FMIC should fit in snug behind the crash bar but as i say it may be easier to remove the bar to install the FMIC & rip the C/C set-up out.

The crash bar i am on about is the long black bar that runs from between the high & low beam lights on both sides across the front of the car, you cant miss it when you remove the front bumper (Thinking about it the front bumber has push clips to hold it to the bar by the number plate mounting point, power steering cooler & gearbox cooler)... anyway you wont miss it when you get the nose off

i prefer to keep the C/C can i not get a way around it?

Whats "clock the turbo" mean?

Whats the advantages/ disadvantages of clocking the turbo?

This post has been edited by beno: Oct 26, 2006 - 8:29 PM

Why would you not want to remove the C/C (Chargecooler) set-up??

If it is so you wont get the code 54 error then I can provide you with a fix for that (2 resistors need to be spliced into the loom)
If it is so that you can run the FMIC cooled air into the C/C blackbox to get extra cooling you could end up with the C/C blackbox warming the air as opposed to cooling it further

If you just want to keep the C/C blackbox for aesthetic reasons if you look at the piping in the first pic you can see that the piping takes up ¼ of the space the C/C box needs to be mounted.


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If you look at the first pic you can see the trubo inlet housing points to the throttle body, if you keep this pointing this way to get the air to the FMIC you will need to pipe in a U bend (2 x 90deg bends) & go down via the alternator, not good for optimal air flow & too close to the down pipe IMHO.

Clocking the turbo means to clock (rotate) the inlet housing 180deg so it points down towards the road/rad, this then provides a much smoother & straighter path for the air flow.

Basically it is the same reason most ppl ditch the stock air filter to turbo inlet pipe & install a straight intake pipe, a much smoother & straighter path for the air.

hehehe damn i thought you meant Climate control by C/C. nah i will remove the charge cooler obviuosly

Nah the Air Con can be kept, the rad for that will fit between the water rad & FMIC

Is there much gain from having a fmic?
Because it looks like there will be alot of heat soak and lag from all the piping

This post has been edited by beno: Oct 28, 2006 - 8:21 PM

this is a very useful thread. I myself am going down this same path very shortly. I have a 1998 Celica GT-Four ST205. I wanna install a FMIC for bling purposes, also ass the stock one seems to soak a lot of heat.

So you can install a FMIC with the aircon stuff all inplace and functioning? sweet. whats the best routes for piping from the turbo to the i/c to the inlet manafold, more pics of how others have done it would be nice thx

i.e pics of where you went through to get from the turbo to the fmic and then how you got the piping back from the ic to the inlet manafold.

also how do you remove all the factory stuff to do with the intercooler.

i.e. what is everything you need to/can remove once you install your own custom FMIC?

Thanks

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have you got anymore intall pics? just ordered a frontmount and was wondering how you re-plumbed the topmount and relocated the battery?