Or you could fit a rally style 38mm restrictor housing to the turbo inlet, which decreases BHP a little, but suprisingly increases the torque by quite alot
exhaust silencers - 6G Celicas Forums
>
This sounds alot like:
"no its not"
"yes it is"
"no its not"
Here is my reply:
Q: How many people are running ct-26's with full 3" exhausts with no creep issues?
A: Alot
QUOTE(Insanity-74 @ Jan 7, 2007 - 12:20 PM) [snapback]515863[/snapback]
>
The problem of the boost creep IS caused by the exhaust being too free flowing and the wastegate on the CT series Turbo not being big enough to cope with the extra exhaust gases produced by modified cars and wider exhaust systems.
The problem of the boost creep IS caused by the exhaust being too free flowing and the wastegate on the CT series Turbo not being big enough to cope with the extra exhaust gases produced by modified cars and wider exhaust systems.
This sounds alot like:
"no its not"
"yes it is"
"no its not"
Here is my reply:
Q: How many people are running ct-26's with full 3" exhausts with no creep issues?
A: Alot
QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
Fare enough...have it your way then......how about coming up with a solution and helping all the 3sgte people who do have boost creep issues.
There isn't just one solution. It depends on what the problem is.
Perhaps the wastegate actuator rod is bent
Perhaps the flapper door is not opening for some reason
Perhaps there is a leak in the pressure line going from the manifold to the boost controller
Perhaps the boost controller is faulty (a problem I had)
I am sure there are other potential causes that I am not thinking of.
Perhaps the wastegate actuator rod is bent
Perhaps the flapper door is not opening for some reason
Perhaps there is a leak in the pressure line going from the manifold to the boost controller
Perhaps the boost controller is faulty (a problem I had)
I am sure there are other potential causes that I am not thinking of.
QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
>
x2
QUOTE(netrata @ Dec 3, 2006 - 4:21 PM) [snapback]507481[/snapback]
>
I have that silencer but I took it off of my n1 style muffler. It rattles and gives the tone a hollow, buzzing sound (almost similar to a honda exhaust tone). I wouldn't recommend it.
I have that silencer but I took it off of my n1 style muffler. It rattles and gives the tone a hollow, buzzing sound (almost similar to a honda exhaust tone). I wouldn't recommend it.
x2
>
that is a great response.....
seriously i doubt the cause of creep is a full 3" exhaust because there are MANY 3sgte owners w/full 3" systems that get 0 creep....i mean look at mr2s....much shorter exhaust and creep doesn't seam to be a rampent problem?
find the real problem don't try to stuff your exhaust to band aid it
QUOTE(jgreening @ Jan 7, 2007 - 2:15 PM) [snapback]515885[/snapback]
>
There isn't just one solution. It depends on what the problem is.
Perhaps the wastegate actuator rod is bent
Perhaps the flapper door is not opening for some reason
Perhaps there is a leak in the pressure line going from the manifold to the boost controller
Perhaps the boost controller is faulty (a problem I had)
I am sure there are other potential causes that I am not thinking of.
There isn't just one solution. It depends on what the problem is.
Perhaps the wastegate actuator rod is bent
Perhaps the flapper door is not opening for some reason
Perhaps there is a leak in the pressure line going from the manifold to the boost controller
Perhaps the boost controller is faulty (a problem I had)
I am sure there are other potential causes that I am not thinking of.
that is a great response.....
seriously i doubt the cause of creep is a full 3" exhaust because there are MANY 3sgte owners w/full 3" systems that get 0 creep....i mean look at mr2s....much shorter exhaust and creep doesn't seam to be a rampent problem?
find the real problem don't try to stuff your exhaust to band aid it
>
Thats much better 11/10...things you can check and look into and investigate and all very valid possibilities, but after working on cars now for over 15 years I can most definately assure you that an overly large exhaust diameter can cause boost creep if you have an inadequate waste gate....remember the CT series of turbo was only ever designed to cope with the standard internals producing the pressure, and with 0.9 bar...its all about exhaust gas velocity and back preasures....there is alot of physics type stuff invloved which I dont fully understand but it does happen.
A bent actuator rod is possible..unlikely due its location being out of the way, but if your not carefull when putting the turbo back on etc.
The flapper (wastegate) not opening fully is a real problem and admittedly one the most likely causes of boost creep...especially if you have one of the XS power type of down pipes which has is under designed and dosnt always allow for the full opening of the wastegate.
Manifold to Boost controller pressure leak..........highly possible in an after market boost controller set up...more likely to be a leak between the turbo itself and the solenoid for the actuator.
Faulty boost controller....the only way to find this out that I know for that is to bypass the boost controller totally and run the boost pressure dierectly off the actuators pre set pressure, which should be around 0.5 bar.
I have noticed this alot in American forums that everyone seems to jump straight on the 3" exhasust band wagon (no offence to anyone)...but unless you want to produce 400+BHP it really isnt needed, but I`m sure that noone will listen to my advice...after all I`m from England...what the F@@k do I know.
QUOTE(jgreening @ Jan 7, 2007 - 7:15 PM) [snapback]515885[/snapback]
>
There isn't just one solution. It depends on what the problem is.
Perhaps the wastegate actuator rod is bent
Perhaps the flapper door is not opening for some reason
Perhaps there is a leak in the pressure line going from the manifold to the boost controller
Perhaps the boost controller is faulty (a problem I had)
I am sure there are other potential causes that I am not thinking of.
There isn't just one solution. It depends on what the problem is.
Perhaps the wastegate actuator rod is bent
Perhaps the flapper door is not opening for some reason
Perhaps there is a leak in the pressure line going from the manifold to the boost controller
Perhaps the boost controller is faulty (a problem I had)
I am sure there are other potential causes that I am not thinking of.
Thats much better 11/10...things you can check and look into and investigate and all very valid possibilities, but after working on cars now for over 15 years I can most definately assure you that an overly large exhaust diameter can cause boost creep if you have an inadequate waste gate....remember the CT series of turbo was only ever designed to cope with the standard internals producing the pressure, and with 0.9 bar...its all about exhaust gas velocity and back preasures....there is alot of physics type stuff invloved which I dont fully understand but it does happen.
A bent actuator rod is possible..unlikely due its location being out of the way, but if your not carefull when putting the turbo back on etc.
The flapper (wastegate) not opening fully is a real problem and admittedly one the most likely causes of boost creep...especially if you have one of the XS power type of down pipes which has is under designed and dosnt always allow for the full opening of the wastegate.
Manifold to Boost controller pressure leak..........highly possible in an after market boost controller set up...more likely to be a leak between the turbo itself and the solenoid for the actuator.
Faulty boost controller....the only way to find this out that I know for that is to bypass the boost controller totally and run the boost pressure dierectly off the actuators pre set pressure, which should be around 0.5 bar.
I have noticed this alot in American forums that everyone seems to jump straight on the 3" exhasust band wagon (no offence to anyone)...but unless you want to produce 400+BHP it really isnt needed, but I`m sure that noone will listen to my advice...after all I`m from England...what the F@@k do I know.
>
I think you raise a good point here. But there is dyno testing to prove that a 3" exhaust will result in modest performance gains at levels under that. Also, some folks initially build BPU 3sgte's with the intent of possibility upgrading later on. If thats the case, you don't want to pay for two exhausts.
BTW, I consider this a polite difference of opinion and apologize if my comments offended you. I am curious as to your opinion why some people experience absolutely no creep issues with a ct-26 (or ct20b) and a full 3" exhaust.
QUOTE(Insanity-74 @ Jan 7, 2007 - 3:28 PM) [snapback]515917[/snapback]
>
I have noticed this alot in American forums that everyone seems to jump straight on the 3" exhasust band wagon (no offence to anyone)...but unless you want to produce 400+BHP it really isnt needed.
I have noticed this alot in American forums that everyone seems to jump straight on the 3" exhasust band wagon (no offence to anyone)...but unless you want to produce 400+BHP it really isnt needed.
I think you raise a good point here. But there is dyno testing to prove that a 3" exhaust will result in modest performance gains at levels under that. Also, some folks initially build BPU 3sgte's with the intent of possibility upgrading later on. If thats the case, you don't want to pay for two exhausts.
BTW, I consider this a polite difference of opinion and apologize if my comments offended you. I am curious as to your opinion why some people experience absolutely no creep issues with a ct-26 (or ct20b) and a full 3" exhaust.
QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback]i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this.
Likewise...most definately no offense taken at all.........its good to get a bit of "chat" between opinions and to talk them through....it can only help out people who read this as eventually we will reach a conclusion as to whats going wrong and help people in the future
I say just keep ur exhaust stock and add an electric cutout! Wanna make some noise and add about 30 +hp/tq... just flip the switch! 
No noise when you dont need it. Performance only when you need it.
Thats what I call sleeper!
No noise when you dont need it. Performance only when you need it.Thats what I call sleeper!
lol...calm down guys. i am in no way thinking about stuffing up my exhaust !
first of all, im going to verify that my WG isint rubbing my downpipe. there is a big chance that it is, and that is whats causing the creep issue. i have already verified that my boost controller, actuator rod, and turbo hoses are in good shape with no issues.
besides that, i am currently installing water/meth injection on the car. this will allow me to run more boost and be safer, and not have to worry about creeping a few psi past where i wanted to be.
however, i think the idea of a small restrictor that you can bolt in and out, is a great one. you could fine tune the diameter if your exhaust, untill you find the best balance of creep and performance. i mean, lets face it, i know 600hp supra guys that run 3in exhaust. i don't think a 2.75in one would hurt performance at all on a 3s.
first of all, im going to verify that my WG isint rubbing my downpipe. there is a big chance that it is, and that is whats causing the creep issue. i have already verified that my boost controller, actuator rod, and turbo hoses are in good shape with no issues.
besides that, i am currently installing water/meth injection on the car. this will allow me to run more boost and be safer, and not have to worry about creeping a few psi past where i wanted to be.
however, i think the idea of a small restrictor that you can bolt in and out, is a great one. you could fine tune the diameter if your exhaust, untill you find the best balance of creep and performance. i mean, lets face it, i know 600hp supra guys that run 3in exhaust. i don't think a 2.75in one would hurt performance at all on a 3s.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
You'll be fine. In my Supra all I had was a 3" downpipe from the original CT26 turbine housing (ported out) going to the 3.5" HKS GT-Spec and I got 533 RWHP out of it. 2.75" wouldn't do anything to the 3S. I even assume it would help it out somewhere in the powerband. When I had an NA A'PEXi N1 on my Celica (less than 2.5" ID), it was quieter and I felt that the turbo spooled faster and the car pulled in a very linear manner compared with the 2.5" Focuz, which made the car fall on its face in the low RPMs and then the turbo would spool up suddenly. I know it wasn't a placebo effect, because my friend noticed it also. It was a huge difference.
Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
i found a good solution to my boost creep problem. i set the ebc to 16psi. it seems to hold that perfectly with no creep. 
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
It's probably because it takes most of your exhaust gas to hit 16psi on that ct26
87 4runner DLX 22re, 5spd, 4.30gr, 4" lift, 30" tires, HID w/ Projectors, 6spkr + sub, custom exhaust, 94 celica leather seats, SR5 gauge cluster and clinometer. Future engine swap... possibly a 2jzge.