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overheating - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #45379 48 posts Started by 6strngs
definetely try to get a toyota one. they are worlds apart in quality then what normal parts stores sell.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
part # 90916-03046 for a 94 GT thermostat.

my st205 swapandour Beams swap
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QUOTE(Manny @ Feb 15, 2007 - 9:58 PM) [snapback]527292[/snapback]
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soo uhh yea........

Hows the car comin along Nathan??


Sorry guys. kindasad.gif

I just didn't want the misinformation up there confusing someone that didn't know.....

Yeah, I would recommend an OEM therm as well. For some reason that is a big issue with Toyotas [aftermarket ones that don't fit].
Don't forget the Oring that goes around it.
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QUOTE(alltracman78 @ Feb 16, 2007 - 1:13 PM) [snapback]527386[/snapback]
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QUOTE(Manny @ Feb 15, 2007 - 9:58 PM) [snapback]527292[/snapback]
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soo uhh yea........

Hows the car comin along Nathan??


Sorry guys. kindasad.gif

I just didn't want the misinformation up there confusing someone that didn't know.....

Yeah, I would recommend an OEM therm as well. For some reason that is a big issue with Toyotas [aftermarket ones that don't fit].
Don't forget the Oring that goes around it.



Completely understand...... and I also understand where hatchy was comin from.... 2 people just tryin to help.... Its like trying to get 2 engineers in a room to agree on how to do something.... not gonna happen....

But in this case.. I may not be an expert on toyotas... but I know a little on workin on cars.... and Id have to agree... Hatchy was a little misinformed.

-M-
headed to the parts store for a refund now. I'll keep you all informed.

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
alright! got my refund, headed to the closest toyo dealer and they had one in stock!!! sweet! I think the best part of the trip though was seeing a silver 96+ GT and an MKIV supra at the dealer. made my day. anyway, I'm gonna go install this thermostat now. I'll update afterwards.

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
Good news! thermostat was replaced. coolant filled to the top with brand new coolant. and everything re-assembled. and now it runs fine without overheating! thanks for all the help guys.

Oh, one other thing. when I was putting my engine covers back on under my car right after I had burped the system, I found a small dribble of coolant on the bottom of my radiator. I wiped it away and more came... did that a couple times. I don't know if it was just the coolant that I spilled leaking down or if it was a leak from the bottom of my radiator. I'm gonna keep an eye on it. I might have to take my radiator in to my welding class and ask my instructor to help me weld it where it's leaking.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Feb 16, 2007 - 5:28 PM

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
You can't really weld those rads. The flame will blow a hole in it.
You have to braze it. Your instructor might be able to do that.
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QUOTE(hatchy_gt-s @ Feb 15, 2007 - 7:16 PM) [snapback]527278[/snapback]
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it will not hurt the engine to have air in it
example:
if i where to run water threw a closed system (with clear tubes) their would thousands of air bubles going by and if i wher to stop the flow the bubles would colect to make large bubles (or air pockets) and if i where to try to remove the bubles and then pump the water it would create more air via H2O consist of oxygen and where to stop it again it would creat bubles so no matter what you do it creats bubles (air pockets) and i didnt include the factor of extreme heat from the engine and evaporation

engineers think of these things and think hmm we need a substance between the header and the block that inkase an engine overheats it will break befor the header has extensive damage im not saying the the header does not warp it does but the gasket blows for that reason


Since the topic is over. I agree with Altracman78. I am currently in school. Air in the coolant can severely damage your water pump. Quote from Corinthian Colleges INC AKA Wyotech ‘Cavitation is the formation of low-pressure bubbles by the water pump blades. A pressurized system makes it difficult for these bubbles to form. Cavitation is undesirable because the bubbles collapse with enough power to blast small cavities in any metal surface they are near. Unchecked, cavitation will erode the water pump blades and housing.’ Also if the engine has a large enough air pocket it can cause uneven heating of the engine which can cause any part of it to warp not just the head.
Glad you got it all figured out biggrin.gif
They sell a product spec. for small leaks in radiators... I want to say silver nitrate...PLEASE dont quote me on that. Either way, its about the size of a film canister and has silver (color) flakes that you put right into the coolant, and it collects and forms a powerful enough seal to take care of any small leaks, ie poor welds. Used it on my 96 camry after the rad started leaking a bit, cleared it all up and no issues since then (over a year and a half). Im gonna go see if I can't google ya up somethin..
http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_vehcare_mech.htm

Wasn't what I was looking for, but should do the trick just the same.


Also found something called Moroso Ceramic Seal, which is more expensive (about $20 for a 16oz bottle i believe). Apparently from what I've been reading is the best thing you can use. It seals any leaks, leaving behind a smooth ceramic finish that transfers heat better than say aluminum. Its 18.95 from http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobrav...ladditives.html .
"The ultimate would have to be Moroso's Ceramic Seal, for racing. Real friendly
to the cooling system and seals up gaps up to 1/4"! Safe for heater cores and
the such, but a bit pricey ($20). It works, and works well. Most of the racers
put it in the block BEFORE the big race, so it will automatically seal any leaks
if they happen during the race. I've used it several times, and found nothing
better for a nearly permanent repair. just dump it in the radiator, run it 24hrs
and dump the coolant. Refill, and all done. "
-Randall J.Thomas
President - A.A.T. Advanced Automotive Technologies Corporation
Owner - Performance Unlimited 4-Wheel & Off-Road Center



Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by laff09: Feb 17, 2007 - 4:43 PM
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QUOTE(laff09 @ Feb 17, 2007 - 9:38 PM) [snapback]527798[/snapback]
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http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_vehcare_mech.htm

Wasn't what I was looking for, but should do the trick just the same.


Also found something called Moroso Ceramic Seal, which is more expensive (about $20 for a 16oz bottle i believe). Apparently from what I've been reading is the best thing you can use. It seals any leaks, leaving behind a smooth ceramic finish that transfers heat better than say aluminum. Its 18.95 from http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobrav...ladditives.html .
"The ultimate would have to be Moroso's Ceramic Seal, for racing. Real friendly
to the cooling system and seals up gaps up to 1/4"! Safe for heater cores and
the such, but a bit pricey ($20). It works, and works well. Most of the racers
put it in the block BEFORE the big race, so it will automatically seal any leaks
if they happen during the race. I've used it several times, and found nothing
better for a nearly permanent repair. just dump it in the radiator, run it 24hrs
and dump the coolant. Refill, and all done. "
-Randall J.Thomas
President - A.A.T. Advanced Automotive Technologies Corporation
Owner - Performance Unlimited 4-Wheel & Off-Road Center



Hope this helps.



Good info!! Thanks for the research....

-M-
yeah, when my oem radiator started leaking I tried using JB weld. but it didn't work very well and looked like $#!T. I'll check and make sure I'm still full with coolant tomorrow, and if not then I know I have a leak and I'll start looking into what I can do to repair it. they sell alot of radiator leak stopping stuff at any parts store. both stuff to dump into the radiator and stuff you use on the outside. I'll look into it if I determine it is in fact a leak. thanks!

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
Hold on.

Do NOT use any kind of pellet/dust radiator sealer as ANY more than a short term fix.
It can and will clog other parts of your cooling system.
Therm, heater core, heater valve, pump, any eddy point are ALL places this crap will want to sit.
Which is bad.
It should work fine for a short term fix, but it NEEDS to come out. And when it does, get a coolant flush.
That ceramic stuff I don't know about. Honestly, I wouldn't be inclined to try that either. What works on race engines isn't always good on regular ones. But I don't know anything about that stuff, so...

What you should do if it's leaking is replace it. Or see if it can be repaired.
hehe, never had a problem with the flakes.
I have used them once before for a short term solution. It's great for that.
But if you leave it in the system is when it can cause problems.
IMO not a good permanent fix at all....

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QUOTE(alltracman78 @ Feb 18, 2007 - 4:26 AM) [snapback]527953[/snapback]
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Hold on.

Do NOT use any kind of pellet/dust radiator sealer as ANY more than a short term fix.
It can and will clog other parts of your cooling system.
Therm, heater core, heater valve, pump, any eddy point are ALL places this crap will want to sit.
Which is bad.
It should work fine for a short term fix, but it NEEDS to come out. And when it does, get a coolant flush.
That ceramic stuff I don't know about. Honestly, I wouldn't be inclined to try that either. What works on race engines isn't always good on regular ones. But I don't know anything about that stuff, so...

What you should do if it's leaking is replace it. Or see if it can be repaired.

I agree. I was kinda iffy about adding anything to the coolant. if anything, I would probably weld/braze it back together or contact Koyo and probably get a replacement (no reason why it should be leaking after only like 2000-3000 miles of use.)

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive