After reading your last post, pittfirefighter, I started picking apart your arguements, but I'm not going to bother. You really should do some reading before you so animately spread misinformation.



Here - this site is commonly kicked around, and I even found a page for you. Read the second paragraph slowly and absorb it.

>



Good idea. Let's get you some bass.



I don't know if you mind used equipment, but if you don't you can save a good penny or two. This kind of stuff pops up rather frequently in the for sale section of ICIX, which is the eD forum.

This post has been edited by applejax: Mar 19, 2007 - 8:55 AM

>

WATTS/VOLTS = AMPS

let's see 10000/12 = 833 amps
and 160000/12 = 1333 amps Yikes!!!

If you reverse the formula AMPS X VOLTS = WATTS
100x12 = 1200 watts

In a perfect world amps are 100% efficient and waste no power. In our world they do waste power (thats where the heat comes from). Somewhere between 50 and 70% is what you can expect. So that 1200 watts on paper is gonna be somewhere between 600 and 840 watts in the real world.

Now as far as what subs to get and what amp. Any really good shop should let you demo a bunch of different subs first in the showroom till you pick out a few you really like and then throw them in your car to see how they will sound in your celi.

Everybody's ears are different and what sound's good to one person sounds horrible to another. You need to find what sounds right too YOU.

Also what kind of enclosure you use effects the sound. Ported boxes are louder but not as tight as a sealed. Bandpass gives you the volume and punch but only in a small freq range. It's a game of give and take. Again a good shop will be able to show you the options and work with you to find what you are looking for.

KB - you will get all the thump you need, you will probably have to turn the bass boost down

Ok now I hope your well on your way to adding some bass to your system.

As for the other arguments going on in this thread I would love to jump in. First off I should hope no one believes everything they read on the internet because that diagram shown before about the charging system is wrong, although it is right in a way.
As you use more electrical accessories, such as lights, heater etc., the electro-motive force decreases and more amperage flows into the battery to compensate for the added load. It is extremely important that when alternator efficiency is checked, both voltage and amperage outputs are checked. Each alternator has a rated amperage output depending on the electrical requirements of the vehicle.
So where the power leads off to other components in that diagram is wrong, all power flows through the battery. Yes you may be able to remove the battery after the system has started and still get current from the alternator but I wouldn't recommend trying that with all your stuff on and your sound as loud as it'll go, lol. Unless of course you have an alternator that can handle all that, but the idea is that you should have to shell out for that kind of alternator.
Deep cycle batteries and capacitors should be a valuable part of any heavy bass setup. If you want more info on those then I will be more than happy to supply those as well.

Edit: Because they aren't always needed, capacitors and deep cycle batteries should always be purchased to fix any dimming issues should they occur.

This post has been edited by GTS13: Mar 20, 2007 - 4:47 PM

You've said the point exactly:



>



If you experience electrical problems after you put your stereo in and you attempt to resolve it with a bigger battery or a cap, chances are you are merely treating the symptom and not the actual problem. If your charging system isn't up to the task in the first place, adding a larger battery or cap will only add strain on your already overtaxed charging system.



Sing with me. C'mon, everyone all together.



Alternators are>> used in automobiles >>>>to charge the battery >>>>and to power all the car's electric systems when its engine >>>>is running.>> [Wikipedia]



the vehicle's engine-driven alternator powers the vehicle's electrical systems and restores charge used from the battery during engine cranking. [Wikipedia]



A car's battery is designed to provide a very large amount of current for a short period of time. [HowStuffWorks]



The addition of a secondary battery will increase the amount of time you can listen to the audio system with the engine not running. When the engine is running, the secondary battery is an additional load to the alternator. [Rockford Fosgate]



Remember that the function of a battery is to start the vehicle and to provide power when the vehicle is not running...After the vehilce is started the second battery becomes another load on an already overworked alternator...[Car Audio Help]

okay....so now i jsut need to decide waht type of box...

it would be made by ED and they have them on their site, and it would be for the 11ov2 subs...10'

so i cnat decide if i want a sealed box, or a ported box....
i know poreted is louder, and sealed is "tighter" but waht do you guys think will sound better w/ these subs???

and size dimensions, either one will fit in the coupe...but the sealed box is ALOT smaller. 7' deep as apposed to 17' !!! so i do sorta need trunk space for junk that i haul around...so rihgt now im thinking sealed....but i also want it to be loud, and if sealed is gonan get rid of my thump...then ill reconsider

This post has been edited by KB-2: Mar 21, 2007 - 10:25 AM

What type of music do you listen to?

Rap/hip-hop/whatever its called and rock/alternative

its a even mix of both...

>



>



Problem is, these statements are rather contradictory. Oftentimes, what people say and what people mean are two different things (which may or may not be the case here).



I normally don't associate "pound" or "thump" with "tight clean punchy bass". So when you say

>, that statement makes me think you'd be happier with a ported box. The eD vented boxes I saw are tuned at 30Hz, which may be an interesting compromise for you. It should be a flexible tradeoff where you could adjust the bass either on your radio (depending on it's curve and central frequency) or by a small eq to give you more "thump" if desired.



You could also try facing the box in different directions. Facing the sub and the vent towards the back of the car will create all kinds of harmonics and stuff that may suit you. You would definitely "feel it" more with it rearward facing, but at the loss of some tightness. The interesting thing is that the sub / box aren't any less accurate, but the sound will be more boomy. You are hearing less of the direct pressure and air movement and more of the vibrations and reflections through the car. The effect will intensify the closer the box is towards the rear of the car.



Oops - I am starting to get into a bit of tuning. Let's hold off on that.



I looked at the sealed boxes, too. While the eD sealed boxes don't show any frequency response, they are on the small side, so chances are they are going to need a bit of power - but once they get it, the response should be nice and tight with a relatively steep rolloff. This looks like a real nice box for music such as rock and jazz.



Hope that helps your decision.



*Disclaimer: The poster is not bound by any accuracy, stated or implied, of the previous post. Any similarities to actual people, fictional or real, may or may not be a coincidence.

Wow dude, very nice. High five on the disclaimer, I need to start adding that to mine until I finally get my MECP. lol.
Things are pretty much handled here. I agree that the ported box is probably gonna be more of what you're looking for KB-2.