So here's the deal...

When she starts up first thing in the morning she runs great. But as the engine warms up it has a rough idle(a bouncing effect) and when i hit the gas it'll sputter then catch but still not at full power. Cleaned the intake filter(aem cold air) changed plug wires and cap(no rotor tho), plugs are a month old and were pulled to have gaps checked. It started after we got a big snowstorm here a few weeks ago so i was thinking possibly a problem in the fuel system but looking for other ideas

Thanks

Eric

I feel your pain, i have the same problem.

Things i replaced:

Airfilter, TimingBelt complete kit, Ignition Wires, Spark Plugs, Coolant with flush, Thermostat, and PCV Valve.

Next to try will be Throttle Sensor, Fuel Filter, and O2 Sensors both of them.

Any Advice?

i just got that some prob fixed too...cost me 500 bucks. i needed a complete tune up- plugs, wires, filters, you name it i got it. that also includes a new head gasket and install of that so yeah.

still no good, swapped out distributors and no change, ran it for codes yesterday amd still no luck. gonna let my uncle take a look at it tomorrow seeing how he is a certified mechanic and has his own garage. hopefully we can figure somethin out

bumpage

IAC valve! Clean it and you will probably be happier. IAC = idle air control valve.

IAC Vavle ?

Idle air control valve, Little electric assembly at the bottom of the throttle body. Hose it with CRC air intake cleaner.

Does it do it ALL the time when it's warmed up, or just some of the time?

ALL THE TIME, mostly when it is warmed up though

It could be the ISC [Toyota calls it a ISC -Idle Speed Control] valve. It certainly won't hurt to clean it out. Spray it down and scrub with a toothbrush or such. Spray/scrub the part that has the single vacuum line. Get that movable piece good and clean. That's for the air to flow. The part with 2 lines is a heater for the TB. Coolant flows through it. Don't worry about that.
Also don't lose the rubber seal for it.

But, if it's a constant, all the time surge up and down, there is also the possibility of a vacuum leak.

However, in your particular case I'm not quite as sure. Being OBDII, the ECU should be more sensitive to these things, and as such set the CEL.
However, you also have the 1st year of it, so it's not what it is now.
Also, having a pressure instead of flow based system [your engine uses a MAP sensor instead of a MAF to determine fuel supply] that might also desensitize the ECU......

There is one thing you might be able to try.
For at least the 92 - 95 5S there is a secondary, more sensitive diagnostic mode that can be used to help detect elusive problems. It's mainly to detect bad connections, but MIGHT work in this case too.
Locate the DLC1 [Data Link Connector, AKA diag box], and open it.
Locate TE2 [not TE1, TE2] and E1.
Using a paper clip or similar "tool", jump the two. Use one the right size. DON'T force too large a "tool" in there.
Now, drive your car above 6 MPH [below that will set a speed sensor code] around the block or such. Drive it for a few miles or until the CEL comes on. Make sure the engine is warmed up BEFORE performing this test.

Once you get back, jump TE1 and E1.
See if you have any codes.

This might or might not work on a 96^. Most likely it still will, but I can't promise. I'll try to remember to check at work tomorrow and see if it's listed in the BGB.

Sapperk, I didn't see that you had changed your cap/rotor in your list.
If not, and they're not in good condition, it certainly won't hurt to change them too.
I highly recommend OEM for them, NOT aftermarket.

www.1sttoyotaparts.com and www.partznet.com are two good online dealers that sell cheaper than normal dealers.

This post has been edited by alltracman78: Mar 21, 2007 - 5:56 PM

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x2

So

This gets a little bit interesting, to me at least.

There IS a check mode, even with OBDII, which probably explains why you don't have a CEL. To get some of the codes the ECU still needs to be put in the check mode, it isn't in it all the time like the newer OBDII.

The problem is, the BGB only lists the procedure for the scan tool. It has no mention of jumping TE2 and E1.
However, as long as you still have a TE2 terminal in your DLC1, I'm pretty sure that will put the ECU in check mode.

But, I CANNOT guarantee doing this won't cause a problem.
Understand there is nothing in the BGB specifically for this year about it.
I'm going on what I know about previous stuff, and making an educated guess.......

well i swapped throttle bodies to see if it had any effect and it actually did have a big effect. now it seems to idle better(prolly due to a cleaner IAC valve). Still sputters sometimes but still running better

I cleaned my throttle body, it runs much better but still some issues too.

Hey All, I also have a 95 'First year GT' and my car also has these same really annoying symptoms. I've had them for around 6 months now and can't get to the bottem of things. The car does approx 100 miles per day on the M-way, and currently has 113K miles on the clock. I've tried to cure the symptoms for ages but nobody seems to be able to help!! My symptoms are... Starts fine all the time, as soon as i set off the car seems jumpy, if i put the clutch in the idle seems to hunt for the correct idle, somtimes gets it so wrong it stalls. This can happen any time, wether hot or cold. I rekon i have about half the power i used to, and the car seems to be becoming sensitive to cold weather. Fuel consumption is up too. No obvious oil burning or leaks of any kind, no engine wear noises either, it just runs crap for a laugh i think. The only thing i can think of that i havnt tried yet is o2 sensors. Engine is a G3-SE, no fault codes either... CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP US???

Cheers :-)
Leigh.P

P.S should there be a temp sensor in a hole in the side of my air box? Cos there has never been one there and when i got the car i just blocked up the hole???

This post has been edited by nitrate: Mar 29, 2007 - 5:00 PM

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Technically the GT has been around for a very long time, and 95 is not the first year GT for the 6th Gen. 94 is. Secondly your engine is not G3-SE, it is 3S-GE.

Now that that is all cleared up, have you tried resetting the ECU? I was having the same problem a year or so ago and it was from when I disconnected the battery and did not give the ECU time to relearn.

Basically try unhooking your battery. Let it sit for a while, then come back and reconnect it. Start the car and let it sit. Take it for a drive after sitting for a while. Does it behave better?

O.K, I'll try resetting the ECU in the morning and let you know if it makes a difference. If it doesn't i really dont know what to do, The MOT is up in a few months so i don't know whether or not it will be worth taking it through if these problems persist. Still don't know if i should have a temp sensor in the air filter box... anyone know??

Cheers
Leigh.P

Hm.
I believe you have a MAP based system.
In which case yes, it's very possible. Especially if there is a small round hole in the side of the box.

Your first step is to confirm you're supposed to have one there [a pic of the hole and surrounding area would help].
Your second step, assuming there is supposed to be one there, is to locate it, and reinstall it.

Also, a GOOD fuel injection flush/cleaning will probably help some.
How do the plugs/cap/rotor look?

Reset the ECU... left power off for over an hour. This had no effect at all, the car just idled high for a while while it re-learnt its settings. My plugs are in excellent condition considering i've never changed them, funny pointy needle tips... cap and rotor are good, leads i'm assuming are also fine. Just cannot seem to get to the bottem of this one. I have a crack in the exhaust right at the back at the back box manifold, i dont suppose a leak so far back can be causing these problems?

Leigh.P

O.K... The problem is getting worse now I've been off work for a week due to the old Shingles, Very painful lol. My car hasnt moved for a week as a result. When i used it to go to the docs today it started fine, but it wont let me accelerate until i get the revs up fairly high. Also when crusing along the road at 30MPH it started to get really jumpy like it was missing, proper kangarooin down the road, but as soon as i lift the throttle it goes smooth again, or if i floor it after a bit of a splutter it eventually takes off. Does anyone know what this could be or am i doomed to just wait for it to completly die befor i find out what is causing this erratic behaviour?? Please help me, Waa!!! i love this car but its treating me badly lol

Regards
Leigh.P

I thought the Gt was introduced in 94!There is supposed to be a sensor in the airbox by the way.

Anyway I have a 94 M plate 2.0 GT and I think I have the 3S GE engine.
I have a problem with the idle which is higher than I would like at about 1500 when cold and the car runs rough till about 2000 RPM.

If the car is left to idle it warms up and the temp guage shows the needle at halfway the revs will drop down to around 800 rpm. if I go for a blast down the motorway the temp guage drops right down and the revs come back up to about 1200 RPM. it all gets worse in cold weather and the car takes an age to warm up if the outside temp is less than about 8 degrees


I thought I'd change the thermostat but when I took the bit of metal off where the top hose meets the block there was no stat??? which is a shame because I bought one of EBAY

I thought I had a dodgy sensor but they have all been swapped and tested and supposedly they are OK.

So I'm stuck as well. The car goes well normally i.e. when your on an open road and the revs are above 2000rpm.