How can you compare the 2 photos? I'm just curious, not trying to start anything. The first picture is a motor with 150k miles and the second picture is of an engine with 1/3 as many miles, am i correct so far? Couldn't that red staining, atleast to some degree be blamed on the age of the motor rather than the brand of oil used?

Lagos, I agree with you. If you have a fairly low mileage engine and it seals are still good, run syn. But if you run syn on a high mileage engine, its so thin, it'll leak like crazy. My beater is a Honda Accord w/ 176,xxx miles and i've never thought of putting syn in it.

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your right, milage has a lot to do with it. but that photo is a good example of how a properly cared for motor should look. that same motor will look just like that at 150k.

my moms car has had nothing but cheap oil in it. it has about 40k on the clock, and its slowly starting to look like mannys 150k motor.

i switched my 7afe from conventional to synthetic blend without any second thoughts, any leaks, or any abnormal burning what so ever. i've ran full syn in it during the winter as well as i found that on the most bitterly cold days it cranked over easier with mobil1 than it did with the penzoil that had been in it. never sprang any leaks, never had any problems. infact i seemed to burn LESS oil at startup after switching than i did before due to leaky valve seals! i'm running it with a purolator pureone filter which accrding to some tests and my personal experiences works very very well, at 3k miles my oil looks like i poured it out of the bottle. i've gone to a 4-6 month change interval since i dont put on alot of miles and for me changing more often would be changing at 2000 miles which is absurd for the kind of driving i do.

My beliefs are pretty simple with oil.

Synthetic oils are much more resistant to thermal breakdown, and its definately more viscous and more protective than standard oil. Conventional oil will do the job as well, but lacks the same physical properties of synthetic oil to offer the same long-term protection.
Most important thing with either oil is that you keep the level where it should be, change it regularly or as soon as it gets dirty, and use a high quality filter. If you neglect those three things then it doesn't matter what type of oil you use, you will end up with wear and tear on your engine over time.

On a high-performance motor that sees alot of high-RPM's and hot temps, I would only ever run full synthetic with an OEM filter or better, simply because it won't break down as quickly as standard oil under heat and it will protect critical areas like the main bearings and moving parts in the head much better. On your mothers minivan with 100k+, regularly changed conventional motor oil will certainly get the job done.

I wish I took a picture of my 3rd gen 3SGTE when I had the valve cover off, it was scary how clean it was..... even with 80k miles everything is SHINY silver with a thin coat of fresh oil, not a bit of burnt oil around the valves, not the slightest bit of wear on the camshaft lobes or the shims. Definately a motor that saw nothing but synthetic oil and OEM filters from the factory, toyota red coolant, and OEM scheduled maintainence.



Ok now that I'm done typing all that, I think i need to check my oil.

Nice writeup, Silver94CelicaOwner

I'm getting Motul 300v chronos full synth 10w40 oil for the 3rd gen 3S-GTE engine. Had also ordered a TRD oil filter, but I know now that stock Toyota is just as good for 1/3 of the money, so don't bother with the TRD.

So what type of oil and filter would yall recommend me for my 5sfe with 119,000 miles on it. Thanks

so my question is: I've had the celi for 5 years and i've always used Castrol GTX now i use GTX High Mileage would there be a benefit at this point to switch to Royal Purple or Mobil One? I was also trying to figure out which tranny fluid to go with when i swap. If it's worth it I'll switch all the fluid out of my car

btw: Oil Filters



Edit:
PS. I'm at 192K now

This post has been edited by ILuvMyCelica95: Jul 5, 2007 - 11:28 AM

M1 is where its @...
a redline fluid mix for the tranny yields great results as well


but MOTUL ftmfw if you can afford it

tina. there is not reason to change to anything. if your car has close to 200k on it, then you have already been doing what you need to be to make it last this long.

as far as tranny oil, try synchromesh.

well i have to stick with GTX for now because i bought a 5 quart a month ago. Yesterday i saw that Mobil 1 makes a high mileage oil. Does anyone use that?

For the record, all Mobil 1 is NOT synthetic.
Unless it actually says synthetic on the bottle it's regular dino oil.

Good stuff, but not synth.

I've never used the high mileage, just the synth in my Alltracs and the regular in my truck.

IMO Mobil1>Castrol, but Castrol isn't junk oil, it's pretty good too.

Up to you. :shrug:

I have heard great things about royal purple, and aside all this, you can go either 5k or 15k with sythetic, as of the normal 3k with a regular oil, spring it up, its better last longer and costs about 3-4$ more...
but what about transmition fluid/oil... what would be a good brand for all of that?

I bought my car at 350,000km, and the owner had been using Quaker State 10w30 conventional for at least 8 years. The motor is strong, smooth, quiet and clean. He kept everything up to date, and the oil is nothing special.

Now, I have switched to Castrol Syntec 5w30. It's a thinner base oil, sure, but I actually have less oil loss between changes, and it stays cleaner. I'm also using Fram Synthetic filters. They seem to do a great job.

The first time I changed to the Syntec, I flushed the engine first. When I pulled out of my shop, I could feel the difference in performance. On a 350,000km motor!

I'm due for a transmission fluid change, and I'm unsure of what to use. I want something with top-tier friction protection to help the old parts last, but also good for the -40/+40C temperate range of Canada.

To the poster who suggested Syncromesh, is that for the autos? Isn't that the GM manual fluid for Cavaliers, etc? How does that compare to 80w90?

fram filters are crap...they are cardboard basically. trash it and get a better filter.

Syncromesh, or a Redline Mix are going to be the 2 best tranny fluids imo.

and its a myth about 3k on dino you can actually go longer...but thats a whole different discussion

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What is in the TRD filters, then? Gold mesh? The Fram synthetic filters cost about twice as much as anything on the shelf, and 5x as much as the regular fram filters. Can you tell me what is wrong with them in more technical terms?

im on the royal purple bandwagon now go RP!

syncrhomesh is for manual trans only. it helps give you much smoother shifting. if you look it up on a lot of car forums, youll see lots of people raving about it.

you can buy it under GM or Pensoil synchromesh brands.

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fram uses smaller holes, less holes, and their drain back seal is not rubber and they do fail. i use only purolator pureone filters which filter very well, have bigger holes than fram, a better gasket than fram, silicone drain back valve vs frams cardboard ones, and since switching (car came with a bag of free frams) my oil is cleaner at 3k than it was at 1500 miles!

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Street-...r/dp/B000BNYMX2

good price?
BUY UP!!!
Ive seen like 1 for $11
for this is like 12 for 78 bucks.. good deal no?