ok. got one of my tax returns already

I just bought:
PWR water to air intercooler $430.56
PWR aluminum inline filler neck $114.90
Devil's Own Base alcohol injection $232.85

All that left now:
spark plugs
intake and exhaust piping, couplers, clamps
figure out oil filter relocation mounting and get 2 fittings to accommodate
send my wideband out and wait for it to get back so I can reinstall it
go over everything three times a day until I'm sure I have everything I could possibly need
install turbo setup

Did you try to hook up your wideband to a laptop and calibrate it?

I did the free air calibration at least 10 times. I hooked it up to the laptop and calibrated it that way at least 15 times. With the laptop the calibration numbers change slightly every time I set it. I almost would rather try connecting it back up again rather than sending it out but I need another bung welded into my exhaust first, I'm not confident enough in it to run it as my primary again.

Oh i see... so you had the output of the wideband going into your factory ecu, but it was freaking out and reading too lean or rich? I had the same problem with mine, until i realized that i had to change a setting on my wideband from a wide 0-5v to a narrow 0-1v output. Might be something thats worth looking into.

yes, that was my first problem. I had both the gauge and the narrowband signals hooked up to the same output. My gauge wouldn't read properly and when I finally got the gauge to read right the car wouldn't run right.

there are two output channels for my wideband. one channel is for the digital gauge and interprets the wideband signal, the other channel is hooked up to the narrowband wire from the ECU and you have to calibrate it using the computer to convert the wideband signal to a narrowband signal for the ECU to read.

the problem I couldn't fix was that it was working fine for a few days then all of a sudden it would lose all the programming I did. I was out (without my computer) and everytime I turned the car on it would make the car lean out. I had to cut the narrowband signal just to get the car home.

The more I'm reading about it, I may just have a ground problem. The Innovate widebands are very sensitive and grounding them to the interior chassis is not good enough.

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damnit dustin!

you should just hook the ground up to the ECU ground.

if you hook a voltmeter between battery negative and the ground wire/the area you're grounded to, and you see higher than .1V per connection, so maybe .2V or .3V MAX, you have a bad ground. ideally though, a really good ground is like a .001V volt drop between a good ground and the place you grounded

ok so stock spark plug is a BKR5E, making one step colder the BKR6E. Yes?

correct

so what is the reason for using the BKR7E?

because i think stock on a 3s is a step 6. and when you run higher boost you run 7.
so you have an NA that was stock 5, you wanna run boost so you go to toyota 3s stock 6, maybe if you wanted to really push it you would run 7. i just woke up so...

i just got NGK V-power BKR5EYA... think this should be good or should I try to return them and get the 3s stock ones? thanks
BTW Im running the 7afte too

5 is the stock heat rating. when you turbo you need to have colder plugs since the combustion chambers will be hotter and so the stock heat rated BKR5E plug will get hotter and there is more of a chance for it to cause premature spark. if you go too cold the plugs won't burn off the carbon enough and cause misfires.

my question is, how much colder is too cold? Manny said to get the BKR7E, if I am not mistaken the 5S stock plugs have a heat rating of 5 just like the 7A. Has anyone had problems with going only one step colder, i.e. was it not cold enough? Should I go for the BKR7E or try the 6 first?

eh ive always run 7s and never had a problem even on the ole 5sfte. plugs were never fouled out its also tuning that effects carbon buildup ie: running to rich.

I'm pretty sure stock rating for the 5s is 6, and I've got 7's in my car with no problem. but that's only one step colder, if the 7a has 5's stock, maybe it'd be better to just go to 6's.

I bought the BKR6E-11 NGK V-Power plugs.

Next, I may not need to relocate my oil filter. Now I am debating on doing the relocation or not. I may just not do it and see how hard it is to change the filter, if it's bad I can relocate it later since I do have all the parts anyway.

I think I fixed my ground situation. Now the ground goes from the battery to a chassis ground in the trunk, a second cable goes directly from the battery to the transmission ground point, and there is a third cable from the transmission ground to the stock chassis ground in the front by the headlight. There is also a small 16ga wire spliced into the 2ga ground cable that runs to the interior so I can ground my wideband directly to that.

I wanted to wait for Manny to weld a second bung into my exhaust but he's away and I might get anxious and re-install my wideband again on Sun. If this doesn't work then it will definitely need to be sent out.

Once all the parts I just ordered come in I will order piping, couplers, and clamps. That will be the last of it.

on a side note, I should see her roll over 200,000 in the next day or two. That makes 4k on the engine and due for the 3rd oil change.

This post has been edited by hurley97: Mar 6, 2008 - 7:19 PM

i'll check my notes i had for my 7afte and also get the type of plug im using on my 7agte for yea

Greddy catch can: is it really worth $100? and should I get one?

a catch can is just that a CAN, with a Greddy catch can you're basically paying for the Greddy lettering on the side of it, get a non-brand catch can and it'll do the same exact job.



found a diagram do you think that cost US$100.00 ? I don't think so.



This post has been edited by Culpable04: Mar 6, 2008 - 9:39 PM

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You can get a no name brand catch can for about 30bucks on ebay. Just make sure it comes with proper 1/2in fittings. Mine said it did, but when i got it it had a tiny fitting with some ghetto thread on adapter. I had to drill the old threads out and make my own fittings. Still way cheaper then the greddy.

I currently have a Gatorade bottle spray painted black as a catch can...
maybe ill upgrade to a metal container when i find one with an nice shape.

Function
---------
Form

its awesome your going water injection.

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the list got bigger. but there's more green

is there an update??

not much. I still have not bought any piping, trying to decide between aluminum or stainless intake piping. Once I get the piping I'll want to get it all done soon after so I want to wait for a few other things first.

I still need Manny to weld my exhaust flange to my manifold and ceramic coat it. Then I'll be waiting for Randy (97lestyousay) to make and send my downpipe flange so I can test fit it.

I'm also trying to decide if I want/need to relocate my oil filter and if I do how to route it.

and I need to do something about my wideband, I rewired and reinstalled it (all spliced directly to the ground cable I ran from the negative battery terminal in the trunk right to the trans ground specifically for the wideband)... it almost lasted a week before losing it's programming again, I need to send it out but I almost don't even want to deal with the hassle of sending it out and crap so I might just buy another controller straight from Innovate for $150. I know that sounds stupid but there has to be something wrong with my controller and I'm very tired of dealing with it at this point.

Getting there, it is going to be tough to get a good fit on the tapered part without
having the turbo to fit it to. I should finish it sunday. You are a little high
on your price though.

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X100

EEEEXXXXCCCEEEELLLLEEEENNNNTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

that looks amazing so far randy!

well if you have the budget, aluminium pipping would be my choice

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its not about price.
its about have the aluminum properly beaded, and or welded.