those headers look just like mine, lol i guess imma have to drill them!! i talk to the guy that sale them to me on ebay.. and he said i can return them but im pretty sure is goin to be the same problem if i buy aother set of headers

,

This post has been edited by Komail: Feb 10, 2010 - 12:29 AM

its gonna be short. u have to bore out the holes in the header to make em fit as well.

hey those are the same headers i bought!! GOOD luck buddy!! lol
yeah u have to bore them out!!

oh yeah!! what u might want to do, when u head to the muffler shop..tell the dudes to cut the pice of pipe where the 2nd o2 sensor is.. so they can weld it to the new pipe..

same as what i got as well, but you got an extra gasket that i didnt! mine just came with the head and section gaskets, not the 3rd one for the cat flange. lucky ****er.

i got the same gaskets and everything!

Yea, um also I have a 1997 ST, I think my upper o2 sensor thingy is diffrent too....i talked to an exhaust guy, he said he can weld an o2 sensor bung into the upper o2 sensor place...gonna cost like 80 dollars

it looks fine in the picture..all u do is use a 12mm deep socket rachet n loosen up the o2 sensor on your existing headers n then use the same nuts for fitting it to the new header. the only things you would have to weld are the extra piping to the cat n the 2nd o2 sensor bung.

is it the second o2 sensor (on the downpipe) that you are talking about?

http://youtube.com/watch?v=0WQkjy86Ruk

theres a vid clip of my exhaust with the headers installed

i revvd to 4500rpm

Like my upper o2 sensor is diffrent, i have a 97, I think that 94-95 had 2 nuts, and 96-97 had just a screw in o2 sensor...

I already know about the lower o2 sensor...

is the increase in power and soudn worth the trouble of doing this? i mean my cast iron exahust manifold is cracked im guessing from server hea to cold which i dont understand sincei live in the valley here in cali i bought the celli that way but im not sure if its worth all the work to do this so i can have a set of headers on my 97 st a lil xtra power would be awsome but the hassel im not sure if its worth it and this is coming from the guy whos goign to be doing all his own bodywork and paint the car once i get the paint in stupid special colors take forever to have come in. esp if your getting a backdoor hook up outta a paint store hehehe. but still what should i look forward to paying for a fully finished header for the celi after all the xtra o2 ports r put on and the pipeing and such is done? just a rough estimate woudl be awsome thx

sounds much like mine, click my sig to hear it. i JUST have the stock cat, resonator, and stock pipe to the back.

Hey guys. I also got myself one of those Ebay headers. But I got one for my 97 ST. So I see that these headers are about 3 inches too short...

Anyways, so I was looking around for a resonator pipe on Ebay (to deal with the noise afterwards) and saw two different listings...one for a 94-95 ST and one for a 96-97 ST (price was different too, by like $20, same seller).
So now I'm thinking if there's a difference between these years (in terms of their exhaust system).

So here's the question. Are there differences between the exhaust systems of the 94-95 and the 96-97? Because that seems to be the case.

I haven't actually taken out my exhaust header yet to see if my Ebay one fits, but in the mean time if any of you guys know the answer to this, it'll save some of us with 96-97s some hassle and time.

type of O2 sensor hookup, earlier models have a flange, latter are screw in.

I have the 97 ST, can i change the 02 sensor hookup from a screw to the flange? what do I need and where do I get it?

u can change it, as long as the muffler shop is willin to do some adaptations to the pipes etc

No, I mean convert the upper o2 sensor from a screw to flange....how would you do that...

why not just return it and buy the right one?

>

I got the header from ebay for 65 shipped...if I return it and buy the right one, thats like going to be more money and time LOL better to convert lol..

ey komail u want it to be a screw in not a flange? u can have a muffler shop weld on a a flat piece over the existing flange on the downpipe n then get a hexnut the appropriate size, drill a hole in the flat piece, then weld that hexnut ontop. then, just screw in the o2 sensor.


also, is to every1 in general, is it bad that my CEL has not yet gone on despite the fact i dont have a 2nd o2 sensor in at all? i just unplugged it from the harness..

I think its called an O2 bung, i can have that welded in to make it work out...

O

This post has been edited by Komail: Feb 10, 2010 - 12:31 AM

>

yea, when i tried to put my header on (directly onto the head bolts) it would not line up all the way. i had to bore it out a lil bit in each one so that the bolts would all get through. it was still a snug fit, i just used the nuts for the header to tighten it onto the head.

>

theres the original support that held the downpipe in place (made of rubber, held in a couple of bolts) just get rid of the rubber and weld a small bar there (on the metal part of the rubber support) and onto the downpipe. should be snug.

>

just have the muffler shop (or whatever shop) find a scrap piece from somewhere that is rather thick and able to weld on. have them weld it into place n then drill the hole so that u can place the o2 sensor inside.

About the 2 types of O2 sensors. I'm pretty sure that you can buy an open flange type sensor from autozone that should plug and play into your header flange.

gonee

This post has been edited by Komail: Sep 29, 2015 - 11:50 PM

bump...

gone

This post has been edited by Komail: Sep 29, 2015 - 11:49 PM

i remember using copper hi temp sillicone in between the header and downpipe to seal it better than that gasket

the gasket that came with mine was just fine and i've had it apart and back together a couple times. just have to snug it down good so it seals well.


my leaky issue is the flex section, its raspy as hell

okay.

since installing the header, i've been hearing this sorta ringing sound.

at first, i thought it must be some loose nuts/bolts in the downpipe.

tightened them, started driving n the sound is mainly when im accelerating from 20-40mph.

i then thought it was hitting my crossmember (maybe crappy install by myself or the muffler shop didnt weld the downpipe support well enough)

took it back to the shop and there is a decent amount of clearance between the downpipe n crossmember. (around a centimeter) and unless my motor mounts are complete crap, it shouldnt be hitting there.

then i thought about the rusty bolts that i loosened on the cat. i tightened em n added some hi temp adhesive to 'em.

when gettin out from under the car, i saw the DP support that is welded on the new DP. it is fairly long, about 1-2 inches and an inch and a half wide with 2 holes in it. i was wondering, would that be causing the ringing? considering that there is alot of force on the DP there, would it vibrate that piece enough to create resonance?

im gonna remove it but i duno when because its a tite fit and i dont have any portable cutting tools besides a craphacksaw.

any suggestions, ideas?

thanks guys!

-xavier