or you could just go on ebay...
downpipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Downpipe-Do...sspagenameZWDVW

adapter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MR2-T3-T4-T...sspagenameZWDVW

just keep in mind that this is not the highest quality stuff.

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yea, ko can fabricate some GREAT stuff, and kris is a really cool guy, but it is NOT cheap.

i would go with the ATS adapter, and have a screamer pipe weled up, like you are talking about.

I've already got an ebay adaptor, but I think everything would be easier if I had an adaptor more like the street brawler kit's. the oil filter probably wouldn't even need to be relocated then. I've thought of blocking off/welding shut the oping on the side of the adaptor, and then boring a hole the same size in the front of it and then it'd be the same as ATS's. Or getting one of those cheap ssautochrome MR2 manifolds and cutting off the CT26 flange and having a T3 flange welded on instead + have a wastegate flange welded onto it somewhere, but there's no telling if the turbo would fit then and the filter might still need to be reloacted then.

dont use the ssautochrome crap.

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i can tell you for sure the turbo will hit the manifold.
joe (supershannon77's future brother in law) has the ssautocrap manifold, with the T3 flange, and the ebay special turbo, sitting in his room. the turbo hits the manifold, the gap between the manifold and turbo flange is prolly 3/4" or more.

no real updates yet. it's been 2 full weeks and Blaast still has not recieved my turbo yet. *sigh* I do have one thing for you though. I was at a hot-rod/muscle car type car show yesterday and found this battery tray for pretty cheap, so no more ghetto rigging of the battery hold-down

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yup, thats the same tray we used in shannons car, and joes car.
clean, and simple.
good stuff.

Blaast says they recieved my turbo on thursday and are working on it now. so, hopefully only 2 more weeks til I get that back. anyway, I've been thinking alot about how I'm gonna get this all to fit in here. It seems that getting an ATS adaptor and routing like the KO racing kit won't work if I'm following the same IC piping route that supershannon followed, which I was planning on doing, and since my housing has a 90 degree bend off it too there's not much else I could do without some crazy bends that would be terrible for flow. so I think I'm gonna stick with the adaptor I have, but I don't really see how the oil filter relocation is gonna work with the A/C still in there. today I was kinda thinking about selling the t3/t4 when I get it back and just getting a CT27, but I don't think that turbo will be big enough for what I want. I think I'll just give the garrett a shot anyway.

turbo is on it's way back. currently still in canada but should be in the states by tomorrow at least.

anyway, after reading bccentaur's thread, I'm wondering if my engine might have blown piston rings too... It would explain why I've blown 2 turbos and I have a feeling this one might be on it's way out. I get some smoke coming out the tail pipe which looks white to me, but it could be blue. a friend driving behind me a couple weeks ago told me he saw a bunch of blue smoke come out of my tailpipe. I'm definately gonna do a compression check before I put this new turbo on, and, if it's determined that my engine isn't looking good, I want to get a 3sgte for it. I figure most of my mods will transfer over to that engine including the FMIC, the 3" exhaust, the SAFCII, the MBC, the gauges, the walbro fuel pump, and the t3/t4. I figure that'd be good for quite a bit of power on a 3sgte! perhaps as much as 280WHP at 15 PSI? not bad for merely putting a new engine in and swapping all my aftermarket stuff over. of course, I'd almost rather buy an ST165, swap a 3rd gen engine in, and then put all the mods on and probably break 300AWHP. but I'm getting ahead of myself, gotta do a compression test first.

5sfe specifications for compression:

178 PSI

Minimum of 142 PSI

Maximum allowable difference of 14 PSI

here's the numbers I got:
Cyl 1: 140 PSI
Cyl 2: 131 PSI
Cyl 3: 135 PSI
Cyl 4: 150 PSI

x 1000000! I didn't think to do a wet compression test, but since I had a theory that the piston rings were worn, I would guess that I was right. I'm not really sure what to do now, I want to do a 3sgte, but I really can't see putting that much MORE money into this car... I would love to get an alltrac, but the ST185's are so expensive, and the ST165's I think wouldn't be "new enough" as I kind of want to get a newer car rather than an older one. *sigh*

If its not your daily driver I say hang in there. Just think of all the time and money you've put into the celi. I was in the same boat, but after thinking and my girlfriend wanting to beat me down. I decided I should just keep on track and think of the outcome.

the thing is, I know that if I "rebuild" this engine, I'm not gonna be satisfied to just use stock stuff. I'm gonna want forged, low compression pistons, forged rods, balanced crank, port and polished head, oversized valves, cams, etc etc. and then even if I pull all this turbo stuff off, I know I still won't pass smog!

MOVE TO IOWA! lol no smog test here

Move to MN too. Nothing, stupid people run open header all the time.

What about buying a newer 5sfe motor? Thats what I ended up doing...the only thing is if you wanna swap at all now is the time if you are planning on taking the motor out. It really comes down t goals and $$$

yeah, I want to keep the car and finish what I started, especially since i had such high hopes for it. tonight I was at a local import meet and as I had about 10 total strangers gathered around my car asking questions about it, I realized I would never get that kind of attention with any other car. however, I think in terms of the $ to horsepower ratio, a 3sgte swap would be a better idea, BUT, then I could never get my car smogged. So, say I want to build up a 5sfte, well, what I was planning on doing in 12 months when I need to smog again was just take all the turbo stuff off and throw the stock stuff on and then put it back on again after the smog, but if you change the internals, it's not that easy. I know I'd want forged, low compression pistons and forged 3sgte rods with ARP rod bolts and head bolts, and a metal headgasket at least. but possibly also a ported and polished head with a valve job and oversized valves. maybe port and polish the intake manifold too. and a set of cams of course... but that wouldn't be so easy to swap out.

do you think emissions will go up from using lower compression pistons? if I don't do anything to the head and just build the bottom end?

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Never thought of it that way - why do you think that [what are your suspicions]?

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it might not get complete combustion and then the CO would increase.

one things for sure, if I do use low compression pistons, then when I am ready to sell the car and I sell all the modifications seperate from the car like I plan to, somebody isn't gonna be happy about only getting like 115 flywheel HP when it's NA opposed to 135. lol.

anyway, if building the bottom end does not raise emissions any, then I could have 2 heads, one stock, and one fully built that I could put on and then swap out when smog comes around.

T-spoon [currently owned by Ngofcukingway] has slightly lowered compression with built bottom end and it's not significantly slower than other GTs by any means - in fact it's one of the quickest N/A 5s's I know.

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Fo shizzle.

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And I give it extra props cause it's the only quick 5S in town that I didn't make that way

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IIRC, T-Spoon's running a little rich, but it really shouldn't be a problem. previous owner of my car slapped on a new hi-flow cat on the car and it's good. It passed TX emissions, but the guy that did the test put it down as a 1.8l, so maybe that played a part in it.

I'm gonna do another compression test today. this time I'm gonna test each cylinder like 3 times just to be sure, then I'm gonna do a wet compression test. if it's bad, I still haven't decided between a new car or a rebuilt engine. if it's good, and the low compression is an "easy" fix with some valve seals or a head gasket, then I guess we'll still be seeing a T3/T4 powered 5s.

my friend has an uber-clean 89 supra turbo for sale that looks mighty appealing if this engine is f***ed

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Those cars are POS's [ask Ngofcukingway], especially with the stock 7M-GTE. Keep the Celica - please.
Just rebuild her - it's just a damn rebuild. Better yet drop a newer 5S in there like Pressure did - 98+ FTMFW

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I'm really not sure where to source a 98+ 5sfe from.

CAR-PART.com You can find a butt load of parts there.

yup I got mine from a junk yard and it was in real good shape by the looks of it.

well, I just went out and compression checked it. here's the results:

test 1, dry
cyl 1: 178
cyl 2: 150
cyl 3: 155
cyl 4: 180

test 2, dry (to recheck numbers)
cyl 1: 176
cyl 2: 155
cyl 3: 155
cyl 4: 176

test 3, wet
cyl 1: 200
cyl 2: 190
cyl 3: 185
cyl 4: 202

well, what do you all deduce from these numbers? cylinders 3 and 4 are lower, but I don't know if they're too far out of spec. and with the wet test, the numbers went up, but even the 2 cylinders with good compression went up about 20 PSI, and the bad 2 went up about 30. so, what do you think? good or bad?

erm... slight update... the car died today while I was driving it, pretty hard, now it doesn't start. and based on the sounds it makes while cranking, I'd be willing to put money on one or two cylinders not having compression. argh!

With the wet compression check going up like that, that means that your piston rings are worn.