okay, so i just changed my rotors...
I did the pads as well, everything was done correctly. I live by the law of doing it once, and doing it right. However, with the new rotors, on the front driver side, there is a tocking noise when i stop (tick-TOCK) tock noise. I can feel it in my break pedal as well, and i had another member (an ace of trades) over this night to help me trouble shoot the problem...
At first i thought it to be a loose clip (between the caliper and the pad) but i have readjusted it 3 times, and with my buddy over we did it again. This time we bent the flex of the clip to ensure proper connectivity. However it still tocked...
It is a noise that you can not only hear, but feel as well in the pedal. It's driving me nuts. This was not an issue on the old rotors. Plus, i know for a fact that the rotors are not warped, it only does this on breaking.
could i get any ideas? help? something? WTF? theese are nice rotors and i dont wanna revert back due to this...
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
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QUOTE(D-Man @ Feb 26, 2008 - 9:26 PM) [snapback]646258[/snapback]
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okay, so i just changed my rotors...
I did the pads as well, everything was done correctly. I live by the law of doing it once, and doing it right. However, with the new rotors, on the front driver side, there is a tocking noise when i stop (tick-TOCK) tock noise. I can feel it in my break pedal as well, and i had another member (an ace of trades) over this night to help me trouble shoot the problem...
At first i thought it to be a loose clip (between the caliper and the pad) but i have readjusted it 3 times, and with my buddy over we did it again. This time we bent the flex of the clip to ensure proper connectivity. However it still tocked...
It is a noise that you can not only hear, but feel as well in the pedal. It's driving me nuts. This was not an issue on the old rotors. Plus, i know for a fact that the rotors are not warped, it only does this on breaking.
could i get any ideas? help? something? WTF? theese are nice rotors and i dont wanna revert back due to this...
I had a similar problem with the back (tick tocking) and it was the brake pad moving around, the mechanic welded a little piece onto the brake pad to make it fit better, no knocking scince. Just my 2c
hmmm failing brake hydraulics???
hope not O__o
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
I like the moving pad idea - only problem is how to diagnose. Could simply be a problem with the pads or your caliper clips not holding them in place right. You did have four of those clips situated on each end of all four pads up front right?
BTW- Patience - someone on here will have the right answer [I think we may already have heard it] - I no longer think this is a life threatening situation [but def be carefull - we'll get it figured out]. Did you happen to keep your old pads? If so and if there is some life left in them, try switching them back on that wheel. If that fixes the problem then you can add one new pad back at a time until the problem comes back - then you'll know where it is. All of this should be done with slow 5-10mph driving/braking in an area where you know you won't get into traffic or problems.
There may be a better idea or a problem with mine but we are willing to listen to suggestions/critisisms
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
my turn to take a crack at this:
1) did you put the 2 anti-rattle springs on the front pads?
2) did you use any anti-queel goop on the back of the pads t?
3) did you tighten your caliper bolt and make sure its tight and not just spinning freely because of that one annoying nut that you need to put a wrench on
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QUOTE(DEATH @ Feb 27, 2008 - 10:55 AM) [snapback]646415[/snapback]
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I like the moving pad idea - only problem is how to diagnose. Could simply be a problem with the pads or your caliper clips not holding them in place right. You did have four of those clips situated on each end of all four pads up front right?
BTW- Patience - someone on here will have the right answer [I think we may already have heard it] - I no longer think this is a life threatening situation [but def be carefull - we'll get it figured out]. Did you happen to keep your old pads? If so and if there is some life left in them, try switching them back on that wheel. If that fixes the problem then you can add one new pad back at a time until the problem comes back - then you'll know where it is. All of this should be done with slow 5-10mph driving/braking in an area where you know you won't get into traffic or problems.
There may be a better idea or a problem with mine but we are willing to listen to suggestions/critisisms
Yeah, i know it was dark last night, and hard to see under a black car, lol. But yeah, all 4 clips are on. And this morning, i felt that clip, and it was still holding (after i got to work)
Patience... I have as much patience as you (or the rest of us) have money... NO WHERE NEAR ENOUGH!! lol.
But for-sure, i'm going to swap out those pads tonight,and see how that treats me, if it still acts up, i think on friday, i'll flip that rotor and flip the pads back to see if it helps... Hopefuly it's something on those pads, bc i got the others (they were still good, i just wanted to install all the GT/hardcore stuff at once.)
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QUOTE(LewFX @ Feb 27, 2008 - 11:03 AM) [snapback]646418[/snapback]
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my turn to take a crack at this:
1) did you put the 2 anti-rattle springs on the front pads?
2) did you use any anti-queel goop on the back of the pads t?
3) did you tighten your caliper bolt and make sure its tight and not just spinning freely because of that one annoying nut that you need to put a wrench on
1) there are 2per pad, total of 4 per caliper. Yes they are installed, and was thought to be the problem. But nope, they're not.
2) Pads came with it, and yup it was put on.
3) ask that member DEATH (above your post) he watched me secure it before he drove my car. it's tighter than my first girlfri.... nevermind. it's tight.
This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:03 PM
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
Yeah but he may have something there - you didn't use a backup wrench on the nut "underneath" the one you tightened did you?
Lew - you think this would cause that noise? I was sort of under the impression that if you didn' use a backup wrench but still got it tight itwould just bind up the caliper - but IDK cause I've always used one.
This post has been edited by DEATH: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:09 PM
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
it might be since the pad is still moving
take the long caliper bolt out...see if you can wrench that 17mm nut or whatever size it is...tighten that then try the caliper bolt with wrench on the nut
This post has been edited by LewFX: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:15 PM
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QUOTE(DEATH @ Feb 27, 2008 - 12:05 PM) [snapback]646438[/snapback]
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Yeah but he may have something there - you didn't use a backup wrench on the nut "underneath" the one you tightened did you?
Lew - you think this would cause that noise? I was sort of under the impression that if you didn' use a backup wrench but still got it tight itwould just bind up the caliper - but IDK cause I've always used one.
not to sound like a 'tard, but what do you mean "backup" wrench?
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QUOTE(LewFX @ Feb 27, 2008 - 12:13 PM) [snapback]646442[/snapback]
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it might be since the pad is still moving
take the long caliper bolt out...see if you can wrench that 17mm nut or whatever size it is...tighten that then try the caliper bolt with wrench on the nut
Yeah, i've been using regular sockets...
So take off the caliper and the caliper-bracket? secure the caliper onto the bracket and replace as one assembly? Because the long bolt is on the bracket. (17mm or 18mm i believe)
How would that help? Or have i misunderstood completely?
This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:23 PM
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
right on - any other thoughts? I'm gonna try to get him to my garage where the tools light and heat will allow us to work better and longer. Unfortunately he's the proud father of a new born so getting time for this is tough. then again brakes are important to her daddy's safety too.
I'm free Sat morning for an in depth investigation. Or any night for an emergency situation or an hour or two w/e.
DON'T TAKE THIS TO A SO CALLED "PROFESSIONAL" yet
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
no need to take caliper off..someone host a pic of the caliper so i can highlight the area
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QUOTE(D-Man @ Feb 27, 2008 - 12:23 PM) [snapback]646447[/snapback]
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Or have i misunderstood completely?
Bingo - I'm getting what he's saying tho.
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
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QUOTE(DEATH @ Feb 27, 2008 - 12:26 PM) [snapback]646451[/snapback]
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right on - any other thoughts? I'm gonna try to get him to my garage where the tools light and heat will allow us to work better and longer. Unfortunately he's the proud father of a new born so getting time for this is tough. then again brakes are important to her daddy's safety too.
I'm free Sat morning for an in depth investigation. Or any night for an emergency situation or an hour or two w/e.
DON'T TAKE THIS TO A SO CALLED "PROFESSIONAL" yet
yeah, thats deffienetly a plan for sat. morning. gotta figure out this break problem...
Not to mention
So I'm going to swap pads, and see whats up with this bolt too... See if i cant see anything... (in my cold & dark working/parking lot...) tonight, Because i'm scared it going to break something, Especialy if i'm crusin down eldrige pushing 60-65 (90-95 when i'm late for work) or one of our MANY freeways and have to crunch on em...
I know that i'll stop, the others are holding in perfect condition. But that one, it could really do some damage to the rotor, or maby to the calipers or worse.... And i dont wanna be shredding those beautiful new calipers; Death, you seen em.
So any 2cents would earn my thanks....anyone~
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
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QUOTE(LewFX @ Feb 27, 2008 - 12:30 PM) [snapback]646455[/snapback]
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no need to take caliper off..someone host a pic of the caliper so i can highlight the area
here's a few
i dont have any of the calp pulled all the way off....
This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:46 PM
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
You don't need it. Top right picture would be perfect if it was light enough to make out the diff parts. I can't from here but my monitor is a few years old flat screen - maybe someone else can? I can see whre it's at but couldn't make it out enough to explain it to you.
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
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QUOTE(DEATH @ Feb 27, 2008 - 12:52 PM) [snapback]646486[/snapback]
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You don't need it. Top right picture would be perfect if it was light enough to make out the diff parts. I can't from here but my monitor is a few years old flat screen - maybe someone else can? I can see whre it's at but couldn't make it out enough to explain it to you.
you know my phone sucks... remember the last houston meet? @ dennys? you and me were the only ones with pics... mine were blury and yours were dark, lol. We still need to put em together to make a decent camera for this saturday.
But it would be awsome if someone could break it down for me. Plus i made sure i had pics of all stages so if it'll help.
Oh death, on the 1st pic, the caliper isnt on. Its the pads and the caliper bracket only. lol. your moniter at work does suck huu?
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
Not that bad - top RIGHT picture bro
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
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QUOTE(DEATH @ Feb 27, 2008 - 1:09 PM) [snapback]646497[/snapback]
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Not that bad - top RIGHT picture bro
oh... oops
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
there should be 4 bolts in there, 2 17mm bolts that hold the cage thinger fast. then 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the cage. when you start the 14mm bolts, they go through the caliper and theres a little nut in there somewhere, you need to hold that and tighten, otherwise it may just tighten itself into the caliper and not move correctly, or it will back out and become loose giving your caliper some play, so when you tap the brakes it allows the caliper to move. since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.
just a thought =/ but good luck
edit - heres a pic, theres a round piece on the cage, then that nut, hold the nut with an open wrench, then put the bolt on and tighten down (like 30-40lbs)
This post has been edited by jason: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:00 PM
you know why they put sheep at the edge of a cliff.... that way they push back!(2:27:32 AM) edit: please f*cking work, f*ck, sh*t, piss(2:28:08 AM) edit: that did the trick
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QUOTE(jason @ Feb 27, 2008 - 1:54 PM) [snapback]646514[/snapback]
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there should be 4 bolts in there, 2 17mm bolts that hold the cage thinger fast. then 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the cage. when you start the 14mm bolts, they go through the caliper and theres a little nut in there somewhere, you need to hold that and tighten, otherwise it may just tighten itself into the caliper and not move correctly, or it will back out and become loose giving your caliper some play, so when you tap the brakes it allows the caliper to move. since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.
just a thought =/ but good luck
edit - heres a pic, theres a round piece on the cage, then that nut, hold the nut with an open wrench, then put the bolt on and tighten down (like 30-40lbs)
i see now. So i need to hold that nut, While tightning the bolt.
Okay, the last time i adjusted it (only the bolt), (the bolt) was holding tight. Should i use a wrench and bring the (nut) back a little bit; and then tighten the two together?
This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:31 PM
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
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QUOTE(jason @ Feb 27, 2008 - 1:54 PM) [snapback]646514[/snapback]
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since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.
genius - we saw evidence of this on the corner of the offending pad. Now we're getting somewhere.
D-man to answer your question - i have no idea where we would find the measurement for this however, we can measure mine and start from there.
Or you could just change out those pesky rotors for my perfectly good working ones and problem solved
This post has been edited by DEATH: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:38 PM
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
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QUOTE(DEATH @ Feb 27, 2008 - 2:37 PM) [snapback]646529[/snapback]
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QUOTE(jason @ Feb 27, 2008 - 1:54 PM) [snapback]646514[/snapback]
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since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.
genius - we saw evidence of this on the corner of the offending pad. Now we're getting somewhere.
D-man to answer your question - i have no idea where we would find the measurement for this however, we can measure mine and start from there.
Or you could just change out those pesky rotors for my perfectly good working ones and problem solved
HAH-HAH!! And then i can just throw those pesky drilled and slotted rotors to the trash can (where you'll be waiting?)
no~
But that does give me an idea... the front 2 rotors have a VERY small amount of play before you mount the tire on, I wonder if it's being held tightly, BUT sitting at an angle on the lug bolts? With the tire holding it on, it could very well be holding it at an angle, where just 1-2 bolt threads high; but would force the rotor to hit the caliper, and that would explain the feel of clucking, as well as feeling in the pedal. And would explain the synchronization of the rotation of the wheel and the clucking.
Now we've made some progress. P!SS OFF BREAK CHECK, I got 6gc.net
Lets find out tonight. I'll let you guys know in the morning. (Thanks Jason)
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
edit: Repost
This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 3:31 PM
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
edit: re-post
This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 3:30 PM
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
i imagine the slight amount of play in the rotors is due to them not being machined perfectly, or being tightened 100% never really messed with that on my car.
as long as they are held on tight enough witht he wheels on to settle in i would imagine you are ok.
once everything is tightened up you should be good to go.
if the corner of the pad is worn a bit goofy you may still hear some noise at first till it wears even.
you know why they put sheep at the edge of a cliff.... that way they push back!(2:27:32 AM) edit: please f*cking work, f*ck, sh*t, piss(2:28:08 AM) edit: that did the trick
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QUOTE(jason @ Feb 27, 2008 - 3:55 PM) [snapback]646589[/snapback]
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i imagine the slight amount of play in the rotors is due to them not being machined perfectly, or being tightened 100% never really messed with that on my car.
as long as they are held on tight enough witht he wheels on to settle in i would imagine you are ok.
once everything is tightened up you should be good to go.
if the corner of the pad is worn a bit goofy you may still hear some noise at first till it wears even.
Right-on.
I'm going to duck-tape the rotor in place from one side; around my strut, and back to the rotor to hold it tight while i mount my tire. That way, i can rather fix or eliminate this idea. It sounds perfectly possible to me.
If not then saturday morning at death's house measuring break pads, rotors, calipers and such. lol.
QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM)Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW!QUOTE (DEATH @ Nov 11, 2008 - 5:40 PM)Damn D-Man - most impressive.QUOTE (99GT @ Nov 14, 2008 - 4:04 PM)D-Man's post should be a stickyQUOTE (samir0189 @ Nov 4, 2008 - 10:50 AM)LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts.
you can buy the a anti-rattle kit at the dealer for under 10 bucks which has 4 springs, 4 clips
