Can I have the cylinders bored on the 5sfe? I heard the cyl-walls are too thin to get it done and would be prone to cracking. True??

Also, what components do I want to get after the full rebuild? Radiator? Hoses? Water Pump...what else???

One more thing...webcams (is it really worth it, I mean with a short ram air intake, stock header, and performance exhaust, what gains am I looking at for HP with the webcams and shouldn't I get a port/polish on the head for better breathability for the webcams??)...how much and what's the address I have to send them to? Thanks!

This post has been edited by 6G96GT: Mar 6, 2008 - 4:51 PM

Yep, you're correct. You can't bore the 5sfe because the walls ARE too thin.
I'll leave it to the pro's to tell you what you'll need after a rebuild.
But as for the webcams camshafts, it's worth it ONLY IF you decide to stick with your 5sfe motor, if not, then don't even bother and just do a 3s swap, because it'll cost like 6-700 to have them regrind your cams, and your car will have downtime as you have to take ur cams out to send to them unless you buy a spare set.
However, it's quite worth it if u decide to stay with ur 5s motor because it's like a 20hp increase (there's a thread all about it) and it'll give that constant power in ur 3rd gear all the way to redline and past.
Also for the port/polish on the head, it'll cost you like ~200 and once again, IF U DECIDE to stay with ur 5s motor and eventually do the 5sfte will be the only way you'll get some more serious power gains.
I can't remember the address to Webcams, but im sure its somewhere in one of the threads, or search on the parts database for the website and collect the contact info.

Thanks, appreciate the info!

i had mine bored .040 over and its doin fine...i rip on it a lot too

yeah, i wanted to but it's just not a good idea...

So it seems like .020 is ok right...but .040 isn't but it worked for Kerr1...so I was wondering about that...I saw a performance engine block for a 5sfe where it was bored to .040 and they installed ROSS Forged Pistons (10.5-1 comp ratio). It seemed ok for those guys...just wondering.

just finished my rebuild. bored mine to .030, fine here also.


check out my list for my rebuild, you might wanna start there...



http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=55662&st=0

This post has been edited by nightryder: Apr 6, 2008 - 4:56 PM

>

I was just reading your post on that...cool. Anyway what pistons did you get? Did you use stock rods? Is our crank forged from the factory? Cool project man, looks great...sorry she died on you though, I know how that feels. Could you include some engine bay pics?

You're most likely fine boring the block.
To what exact point I couldn't tell you.

The block cracking is mainly for those seeking very high HP.

As far as what is forged, the crank is, as well as most likely the rods and pistons.
Forging is normal for OEM parts. Has been since the 90s.

as far as i kno the pistons are cast... the rods are forged, but not very strong.. the crank is forged too and supposedly its a beast...very strong from the factory.

5s cranks are forged - and beastly! (they are used in 3s strokers)

pistons/rods should be upgraded if going for high power #s, though it is up to you and the budget

-Terra

I have to get into contact with my machinist, he has all the info on the pistons and whatnot. I did replace the rods tho...


the rods are def the weak point of the bottoms end, if you are worried about something busting on you, worry about the rods...



Crank is forged (and beastly...yes) i had mine machined down and had oversized bearings installed.