car pulls. apparently my brake isint releasing, so one side's brakes were still somewhat engaged, while the other side wasn't, thus pulling the car to one side. alignment was perfect, everything was as it should, cept people noticed a burning smell from my car. i took a hell of alot of time to pretty much rebuild my engine, and it was still pulling. till i had the windows down (its cold out) and i heard a sound almost like my parking brake was on.

not sure if its the brake lines (as where the brake line connects to the strut before going to the frame, its a lil rusted, possibly causing a blockage and not allowing the piston to return) or the piston itself is locked.

upon further investigation, i pumped the hell outta the brakes to the point where the suspect wheel could no longer be turned, the other was easy. i then popped off the nipple to the bleeder valve and loosened that... now the brake fluid just ran out, didnt squirt, so im guessing its the piston(brakes still locked after opening the bleeder). yet... i go and take the caliper off, and with the bleeder left open, the piston pushes back super easy... wtf

apply some grease where the pads clip in as they stuck a lil bit prolly due to heat build up, and tried again with everything back together and problem still exists.

this occurs when first driving and also after driving a while so i dont believe its heat dependant. i do plan to upgrade to a larger brake system on all 4 corners in the near future, but in the mean time id like this fixed if not too costly

I don't know a lot about breaks, but I would guess your caliper is sticking.

Definetely sounds like a stuck caliper. A rebuilt lifetime one should run you $75-100 after core IIRC.
Good luck.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Mar 13, 2008 - 11:59 AM

same thing happened to us...and it was that the caliper was seized on the right/front tire.


after we changed the the front rotors and un-seized the breaks they worked great besides the ebrake on for the right/rear wheel.

good luck

feen

i believe it is.. i have a parts hook up and a reman is $39 with a $50 core charge.. so $40 + $20 for new brake lines on that side isint too bad in my mind

figure should replace that while im at it

also.. anyone know of any DOT approved steel braded brake lines?

and... if they are what im thinking... ive had some that were nylon wrapped with steel braid and the ends pulled off a good deal easier compared to the regular rubber ones. a couple of times i was on a track n that stuff pulled out - like i must have ran over something and kicked it up in there and knocked it out.

id like to upgrade, but my experiances in the past have not been too positive.

>

DOT Certified:
Techna-fit lines are dot approved. http://www.techna-fit.com/toyota.html
~$150

OR

order from here:
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/techna-fit/tf_toyota.html <--i got mine
~$100

DOT Standard compliant
eBay search: celica steel brake lines 94-99
~$80

Its probably your slider bridge pin. You know, the part with the dust boot that the caliper bolts to. You have to take it out, clean it off with some sand paper or wire brush, and use special break grease to lube it up. If you have a hard time removing it, then you know its whats causing the problem. If it slides right out, then its fine.