GriffGirl

#31

Are you putting in another set of door speakers in addition to the tweeters and ones that were at the bottom of the door? If so what size speakers, and do they need to be slim so they'll fit and not interfere with the window? I was thinking about adding another pair of speakers to make a total of 10 speakers (counting the subs) but IDK if putting them up front would just overpower things or if it'd make more sense to put them in the back. Doesn't the stock 8 speaker setup contain 3 pairs total up front?

Your tweeters look great, by the way. I kind of wish you could carbon-wrap the triangles though, I think that would look really nice.

Rizer

#32

Than the rear speakers is installed.

Original speaker



We have to remove some of the plastic to make room for the 6,5" speaker.




The new speaker



We had to make new monting holes for the screws, as the originale ones was too wide.



In the car


This post has been edited by Rizer: Aug 29, 2008 - 4:01 PM

Rizer

#33

The door speaker involved some more troubble that I had hope for, but now it's finaly done.








And here we go, 3 speaker front door system.




This post has been edited by Rizer: Aug 30, 2008 - 5:24 PM

AnaXyd

#34

You should really re-glue the cover again..

Rizer

#35

Today we did damped both doors, and the rear.
This did a huge different, and I can highly recomend to do this.









This post has been edited by Rizer: Aug 31, 2008 - 3:22 PM

Rizer

#36

>

QUOTE (AnaXyd @ Aug 31, 2008 - 6:56 AM)

>You should really re-glue the cover again..

I know, it does not look that good, but today tha glue was hardened, and it looks GREAT.
I will upload a new picture of it later.

Rizer

#37

Just a quick update of the door, after the glue has hardened.
The tweeter angel is way of, so we have to change that soon.



This post has been edited by Rizer: Sep 2, 2008 - 2:56 PM

markjbutler

#38

Out of interest - i see that you had to cut the tweeter holes yourself which suggests that you did not have the premium system but then you have the bracket for the third speaker. Does this mean that the adapters are just sat in the door waiting to be used?

GriffGirl

#39

If you're referring to the connectors for the tweeters, yes, they're sitting inside the door waiting for to be used!

markjbutler

#40

>

QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Sep 2, 2008 - 3:36 PM)

>If you're referring to the connectors for the tweeters, yes, they're sitting inside the door waiting for to be used!

i was asking about the bracket holding the 4" speaker - although i look again i see that there is a 4" speaker in the photo so i'm guessing he got them from a scrapyard or something. Thanks though.

Rizer

#41

We did "rip" the vinyl off the door as you may see in the pictures.
Then we add some spattle, and this way builing up the door to a flat round surface.




This post has been edited by Rizer: Sep 2, 2008 - 3:08 PM

Rizer

#42

Now we are almost finished with the new floor, and the wiring.
I think we should be done next weekend.

AnaXyd

#43

Looks great! You are using some of my ideas in the trunk.. (I am from Norway too, got a big worklog on diskusjon.no)


A nice tip would be to separate the power and signal cables to prevent noise. The connection cables are good though, but it may be noise..


Are you planning to do some dampening in the trunk with vibroplast?

This post has been edited by AnaXyd: Sep 6, 2008 - 5:15 PM

itssteve

#44

hey man this looks really good, im just wondering what are the deminsions of the amp in the pics because i have an install that i wanna do but i dont know if the amp that i have is to big or not to go in there, thanks and sorry for post dumping

Rizer

#45

>

QUOTE (itssteve @ Sep 8, 2008 - 1:18 AM)

>hey man this looks really good, im just wondering what are the deminsions of the amp in the pics because i have an install that i wanna do but i dont know if the amp that i have is to big or not to go in there, thanks and sorry for post dumping

Hello.
Just follow this link, and you will find the dimensjone at the bottom of the page.
Technical info LRx 5.1
Length:53,8 mm

itssteve

#46

thanks that really helps out man, i really think that im gonna have to go this route when i re-do my set up in a lil while, cause i have no place other to put this amp, keep up the good work man i cant wait to see how this turns out in the end

Rizer

#47

We was not happy with the rear speaker instalation, so we have now made 2 MDF adapter rings.
This way we got the speaker closer to the "door panel", and the acoustic shortcircuite is now history.
We did also added a foam ring around the speaker, just like the originale ones.

Legit94GT

#48

That looks great

That is basically what i had in mind when i upgrade my rears to 6x9s, but i was worried about putting the plastic piece back over it, when you used the think mdf board does the plastic piece fit right back where it should or di you have osme fitament problems?

Great build

---

1 JL 1,000/1v22 JL 12" W6v22 Focal 6.5 component 165a1Kenwood DDX512 head unitRunning 142.6db with the back seat up:)

Rizer

#49

IT'S ALIVE AND KICKING!!!
Pics will come.

Rizer

#50

>

QUOTE (Legit94GT @ Sep 13, 2008 - 1:33 PM)

>That looks great

That is basically what i had in mind when i upgrade my rears to 6x9s, but i was worried about putting the plastic piece back over it, when you used the think mdf board does the plastic piece fit right back where it should or di you have osme fitament problems?

Great build

Mine 6,5" fitted just like the origian ones, no problems at all.
I shall take some pics, and post them soon.

Rizer

#51

Here we have some pictures of the rearspeakers in place.
As you can see, they fit snug thanks to the MDF rings and foamsurrondings.
This is very important, as you will loos the closed box effect with out it.

Rizer

#52

>

QUOTE (Rizer @ Sep 14, 2008 - 3:51 PM)

>IT'S ALIVE AND KICKING!!!
Pics will come.

Well there has been a little slow around updates, now that the system is up and working.
Here is a picture of the half finished installation.


This post has been edited by Rizer: Sep 25, 2008 - 12:20 PM

petna

#53

not convinced with how the power and speaker cable is run together to be honest. loving the rear speakers though

---

www.celica-club.co.ukMy Garage

Daftboy

#54

Nice which hertz speakers are you using as this is what I have in my setup as well.

(Headunit)
Pioneer Premier FH-P800BT Dual Din
(Front)
Hertz ESK 163L Speakers
6 1/2 inch Woofer
4 inch Mid range
3/4 inch Tweeter
92 dB/spl
250W peak 125W RMS
50Hz - 23 kHz
4 Ohm
(Rear)
Hertz DCX 165
6 1/2 inch 2 way Coaxial
93 dB/spl
120W Peak 60W RMS
60Hz - 21 kHz
4 Ohm
(Subwoofer)
2 JLW010
Running at 2 ohm Bridged
(Amp)
Alpine MRP-M450 Mono Block


and are you going to setup a 4 way for them ? or only a amp for the woofers?

---

--------------------------------私は銀行に漂う,TRDInspired

Rizer

#55

>

QUOTE (petna @ Sep 25, 2008 - 5:55 PM)

>not convinced with how the power and speaker cable is run together to be honest. loving the rear speakers though

Oh.. Yes it's just temporary, we was so eager to hear what it sounds like, so everything was just "thrown in".
We will correct this later

This post has been edited by Rizer: Sep 26, 2008 - 1:33 AM

Rizer

#56

>

QUOTE (Daftboy @ Sep 25, 2008 - 6:01 PM)

>Nice which hertz speakers are you using as this is what I have in my setup as well.

(Headunit)
Pioneer Premier FH-P800BT Dual Din
(Front)
Hertz ESK 163L Speakers.
6 1/2 inch Woofer >>We use >>Space 8
4 inch Mid range >>We use>> ESK 130
3/4 inch Tweeter >>We use>> Space 1
92 dB/spl
250W peak 125W RMS
50Hz - 23 kHz
4 Ohm
(Rear)
Hertz DCX 165
6 1/2 inch 2 way Coaxial >>We use>> EXC 165
93 dB/spl
120W Peak 60W RMS
60Hz - 21 kHz
4 Ohm
(Subwoofer)
2 JLW010 >>We use>> ES 300
Running at 2 ohm Bridged. Same as we do.
(Amp)
Alpine MRP-M450 Mono Block >>We use>> LRx 5.1


and are you going to setup a 4 way for them ? or only a amp for the woofers?

This post has been edited by Rizer: Sep 26, 2008 - 4:01 AM

Rizer

#57

We have now recived the new neonlights.
Pics will come soon.

RickJamesBish

#58

What are you talking about exactly with the closed box effect for the rears? Mine sound pretty bad and I'm trying to figure out why.

razor7

#59

>

QUOTE (RickJamesBish @ Oct 26, 2008 - 8:48 AM)

>What are you talking about exactly with the closed box effect for the rears? Mine sound pretty bad and I'm trying to figure out why.

Easy, they're blown

Nah, just take a look at the cone, make sure they're in good condition. If you have new ones installed, then make sure that everything is tied down correctly. Follow this guy's plan and put foam in between the speaker and the adapter/holder. This will eliminate rattle. I would also recommend the 3/4 panel dampening, it'll save you a lot of hassle later.

Rizer, if you are planning on redoing the wiring to the rear, put down some sound dampening material along the whole bed of the car. It'll help out a LOT when you cruise on the freeway. Helps eliminate a vast majority of the road noise we suffer from, you'll thank me later! :-D

-TC

---

Live your life for yourself. Don't hold back for anything or anyone.

RickJamesBish

#60

>

QUOTE (razor7 @ Oct 26, 2008 - 10:28 PM)

>Easy, they're blown

Nah, just take a look at the cone, make sure they're in good condition. If you have new ones installed, then make sure that everything is tied down correctly. Follow this guy's plan and put foam in between the speaker and the adapter/holder. This will eliminate rattle. I would also recommend the 3/4 panel dampening, it'll save you a lot of hassle later.

-TC

Yeah right, I would kill if I my two-month old speakers were blown! It's distortion. I think my HU isn't powerful enough to power all four. They're also sitting on the old glue from the speaker, so it's not rattle. The fronts are sealed onto the adaptors with the adapters sealed to the housing. I think I might just need an amp...

And looking at his pictures, I don't even know if I have that surround that he has. Would the foam in between the speaker and the housing really help, since it's already seated in well enough.