10w30 is fine, 5w30 if its super cold in the winter where you live. i prefer to run 10w30 synthetic year round and i use mobil1 oil and either purlator pureone filters or a mobil1 filter.

Thanks man.

I have an ST of the same year just make sure you have a good breaker bar to remove the drain plug. My ratchet was too short and I had to borrow a breaker bar.

What's a breaker bar?

If I'm lucky, I can get 500 miles in 3 months but I still do an oil change because over time oil loses it viscosity or balance. You can say its 3 months first or 3,000 miles whatever comes first no matter how much you've driven it.

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like a bar (metal tube) to put on the ratchet so you get more leverage

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not to call you out or anything, but i always thought it was a bar that did not ratchet. Although that's a good way to improvise if you don't have a breaker bar. I believe it gets its name from being able to "break" free stuck bolts because of the added torque you can place due to the length of the bar.

Either way, I personally think that the drain bolt is a tad bit too tight if you need a breaker bar. Don't you risk breaking [no pun intended] the drain bolt and ending up with the threaded stud in the pan by tightening it so much?

I remember once I hadn't change my oil and it was up to 4k miles my car ran like crap and smoked alot through the exhaust until I changed the oil after that my car ran better/faster and stopped smoking what does that say ?? I don't know though it goes both ways experience and what you read, what can you believe these days ??

I only use mobil 1 5w30 w/ mobil 1 oil filter btw.

doesn't it say on your oil cap what oil type you should use? mine says 10w-30, what about yours?

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Yeah it should be printed onto the stock oil cap. Mine says 10w-30 too.

And a metal pole or attachment added to a ratchet for leverage is called a "cheater bar". A breaker bar is an actual tool that is just a longer non ratcheting version used to "break" loose harder to get bolts. You should not need to apply that much torque onto a drain plug bolt. If you need a breaker bar to remove it, it's either on too tight, or you are just very weak (that's not directed towards you personally haha, it's just another possibility for needing to use such a tool).

It doesn't take a lot of torque to strip the threads to the oil pan, so when you tighten it, just tighten it with enough force where the washer is sealed and you know it won't leak.

This post has been edited by MaskedMan: Nov 1, 2008 - 11:55 PM

Yeah I think the Dealer who changed the oil last made the bolt too tight.

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Oops I meant mostly 10w30 I just switched to 5w30 for the weather.

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Yeah thing about dealers is that they typically over torque a lot of bolts "just to be safe". Reason being is because it will start with one loose bolt, then a missing bolt, then something will happen resulting in a lawsuit against the dealership.