i have officially made the journey from domestics to imports as i purchase my 97 celica. i refuse to drive anything the way i buy it, so heres what i've come up with so far......

the plans for my 7afe....

4AGE (16 valve) head
2ZZ (11.25 compression?) pistons and rods
jac knife the crank
CRANE CAMS RPM 2600-6000; Adv. Dur. 292 Int./302 Exh.; Valve Lift .458 Int./.472 Exh.; Lobe Angle 110 deg.;
PACESETTER HEADER
OEM exhaust (less the resonator and cat)
extreme port and polish on the head
HKS valve springs
HKS adjustable cam gears


any ideas suggestions comments are enthusiastically welcomed.....

never heard that done before - this frankenstein.

do a search on 7agte i have a full build

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=21831

also check 7age

and there are things that arent going to work that you have listed


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This post has been edited by nik: Jan 26, 2009 - 11:31 AM

i have been doing research all week. although i would love to boost this little puddle jumper, i just dont know if its a headache i want to deal with right now. although the ebay "tuner kits" are conveniently priced under $1000 and include just about everything you need, less the manifold and downpipe.

just about every post i've seen for the NA 7A, recommends swapping to a G series head. Boring out the cylinders to 82mm would allow the 2ZZ pistons to slide right in, and i just discovered that they now offer 13:1 pistons for the 2ZZ. The new head and HKS cam gears require swapping the timing belt with one from a porche. i dont have it right in front of me which one, but it is in my records. There have been several people who have done this conversion already, however none who tried the 13:1 piston or extreme cams. i plan to use the same methods with the air and fuel as i used on my 98 ford contour zetec. after tripping the CE light with the air flow, the new 5th injector was just enough to straighten that out plus the new straight through exhaust makes an impressive improvement over the OE 110hp. returning to the celica, with a dry sump oil pump, custom IM, bigger throttle body, and a whole lot of hard work and tuning. i believe i can bring a +250hp 7a to the table.

on the other hand........... it could just snap craccle and pop when i try to start it...... that would succ

i just recommend that post cause its pretty much the same as building a na

there has been alot of post on the pistons and rods to use

the 2zz rods wont work with the 7afe crank
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...821&hl=7age
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...054&hl=7age







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maybe a turbocharged slightly modified 7afe would be a better option.... economically.... a rebuilt 7afe will run about the same as a heavy duty set of pistons and rods.............. and the turbo would be much cheaper than having all the machine work done.......... kinda feels like im right bac where i started........

I found a 20v head for sale near me yesterday and am considering doing the same thing... but not after I research the hell out of it first

the biggest pain is getting the timing dailed in right alot of math

you gotta set up that belt right

also you have to redo your coolant setup

but it can be done

for now i think i will just keep researching my options. when the time comes to add the GFS to the car, i will just have to go over the finances for the project.


off topic.... there should be a collection of carbon fiber pieces available for the 6g and the 7AFE in the months to come. but no one knows yet!!!

same here im deff gonna watch this topic. i was either gonna save the for a 4A, or the ge hybrid

here is a good 7age set up i looked at this in my early days of my 7agte build

http://te51levin.superjamie.net/7ageintro.html

This post has been edited by nik: Jan 27, 2009 - 4:33 PM

Some info first off...

Use 4AG pistons. They fit the 7A and are much easier to find in a wider range of compression... 13:1 comp is too high for regular street use, unless you plan on building a straight race engine or something... As for rods... custom or aftermarket. Re-engineering 2ZZ rods is gonna cost a bit and not perform as well as aftermarket rods due to incorrect stroke ratios. As for the head... go for the 20V head. If you use the 20V head, you can use the existing 7A water lines... but if you use the 16V head, you'll have to redo everything.

That said... I think you're biting off more than you can chew. Based on your research so far... you're just speculating when you talk about 250hp and such. FYI, a 7AGE hybrid in n/a trim doesn't make significantly more power than a stock 4A. Maybe 5-10 overall across the powerband in stock trim. Tuning for 200+ hp isn't amateur stuff... let alone 250. Toyota Formula Atlantic motors only make 240hp at 10,000 rpms. Granted they're 1.6 liters, but consider the build cost and tuning requirements of those engines and know that they aren't very streetable motors, then go back and reassess your goals. You're starting with a base motor that is 160hp at best (20V)... and are attempting to increase that by 100hp. It is no easy task and requires more investment than bolt-ons.

If you're looking for power... turbo the 7A. If you wanna realistic power goals from a 7AG hybrid... around 180hp is more realistic and would still require a good deal of tuning.

This post has been edited by Kwanza26: Jan 28, 2009 - 12:47 AM

nicely said how you been B

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thanks for the info nik. the turbo is probably a better option financially plus it will add some color and liven up the engine bay. when i get ready to do the labor im sure you'll be hearing more from me. thanks again

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nothing to do with this topic, but the second generation Prius runs a maximum of 13:1 compression ratio

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and the prius does not use an otto cycle engine like everyone else does, it uses an atkinson cycle engine.
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