crappy cell phone lol, best to turn your speakers all the way up and ur sub up a little, its alot more brutal in real life though...





This post has been edited by delusionz: Jan 27, 2009 - 4:12 PM

I'm sorry, but I really don't hear a difference??

me either, i dont mean to be a dink but what are we listening for? and what the heck is that getup hooked up to your intake?

what is it exactly?

Untrained ears to the 3s-ge eh, wish i had a better microphone, its a brutal changeover when the 4 butterfly throttles in the intake manifold open up 100%

the box is a remoulded cold air box from a European car that uses a long cylindrical air filter, i adapted it to fit a podfilter, I was just too eager to try it out before scrubbing it up with sandpaper, then wet and dry and then painting it.. plus im not happy with the fitting yet...

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jan 29, 2009 - 8:31 AM

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I think it's more the recording, can hardly hear it myself and it's something I hear several times a day

Yeah mine sounds more definate, you feel another 10% (really its proberly only 5%) more loudness/acceleration.

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hmm I'm sure they close making it shorter at high RPM's ???

>


Nah, unbolt ur acis lid and see for urself pull the actuator anticlockwise (ie, simulate vacuum applied) and then push it back clockwise (it will probably be sticky with trapped vacuum in the hose)... If u look into it closely you'll see why I've modded mine

I've found though, the higher the changeover rpm , the more definite it sounds/feels, however i do believe it's ready for changeover a bit earlier than 4800 or 5000

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jan 29, 2009 - 11:08 PM

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yeah I know what you mean, I think a good setting is 4800rpm rather than 5100/5200rpm


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I did ages ago, lol I was looking at the wrong picture (looking at the idle pic), although I haven't adjusted the RPM setting as you have , but you can adjust how quick it changes over, by screwing the bolt in you are effectivly making the distance for the change over shorter
(OFF)

(IDLE/ Low RPM's) its not quite closed in that one I know

(HIGH RPM's)

Tell me you can see exactly what I'm saying.... Your low rpm and high rpm pictures should be swapped around... they are totally opposite... look at the paths... (yeah on the closed mode, mine is more shut than urs, i think thats just the effect of that screw)


basically when the throttles are straight up it acts as a constrictor, with half the air taking a longer path... when they are laid out flat it blocks the top part off and the air has a more direct path...


What you're actually noticing is that ACIS is "stuck on" when your engine is running with the hood up, this is (I believe) due to trapped vacuum in the line which makes the actuator sticky... and when the motor is off the vacuum is free to escape.

Heres the thing... Apply 12v to ur Vacuum Solenoid Valve, notice it clicks open, If you unplug the hoses while your running the engine, you'll get a vacuum leak from one of the hoses and the motor will rev up... now with the motor running, unplug the 2 wire power plug from the VSV, notice your ACIS doesnt close, hit it with your multimeter, notice its on 0v... now unplug the hose going directly to the diaphragm... You'll hear a pop as the trapped vacuum in the line is released and the ACIS throttles will close... Get what I'm saying???? This was the whole reason behind the controller and the standalone vacuum routing i made... I incorporated a pressure release system in my setup so the throttles would close when they're supposed to be.

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nope, thats what I use to think but after looking into it I realised I was wrong

since we are discussing 3S-GE ACIS lets do it here