>
QUOTE (rj8807 @ Aug 19, 2009 - 11:54 PM)

>awesome! thanks alot! I'm currently trying to see if the head tech will let me run stock class, even though i have very light mods. (rear strut bar, shifter, cone filter) They are usually pretty lenient whenever I go to an event, because they just want to have a good time, but I shot the head tech an email just incase.
I was thinking more towards studless winter tires. Do you think the Traction T/A's are a better choice?
it depends on what class you get put in, but seriously, the traction t/a's are a great all around choice. they are not that expensive, provide way better traction than a normal summer performance tire, and yield good tread life for daily driving. for me, if i ran winter tires, i would be in the modified class and i would have a real hard time staying up in points in competition, so i stay in the stock class for now. to be honest, you will be able to get the rear to rotate around easily on the stock suspension without the strut tower bars. i have a front strut tower bar and a rear bar set up for a racing seat belt harness that connects the rear strut towers, so its basically acting as a strut tower bar. i take these off before the rallyx and run completely stock. if you can do the scandinavian flick and left foot brake, you will find that this car is actually pretty good in the dirt. i found that i don't need to use the e brake, that left foot braking works as good if not better than the e brake while in the dirt. 90% of the time i'm keeping the gas pedal pinned to the floor and tapping the brake with my left foot to get the rear to come around. works great. if i were you, i would take out the strut bar and try it out. i would also give rallyx a try before buying tires. this way you get a chance to see if it is something you really want to do before you start spending money, and second it gives you a chance to see how much tires will help you when you upgrade later.