>

Super charge and awd beams redtop.

Did you happen to know the weight of the aluminum gt4 front and rear calipers vs stock

Doesn't seem like you can shave much weight besides. Carbon hood. Have rusty send you a cold air box. Make some headlight covers like found on old school 240z and remove all 4 headlight for racing events(but seems like A hassle)

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 19, 2015 - 2:52 PM

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Oh I bet it would.

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No I dont, thats something I definitely should have done.


The only things that I have been looking to do are yeah, carbon hood, take off the fog lights, door panels (make some aluminium panels) and a CF hatch.
Then from there on out just focus on balancing out the Aero
First on the list is to re-route the end of the exhaust to be above the diffuser
those swan neck wings cost SO damn much.
Also I dont think I will be reaching high enough speeds to warrant a chassis mount wing

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Sep 22, 2015 - 7:59 AM

Some side tower braces by Jspeed just popped up on Yahoo Japan auction. You could make something similar like that here.

Carbon hatch meh too much money. Find a rear hatchback swap out the glass for some plexiglass and use that for track events only.

CF hatch is the way to go.

If you haven't already you can relocate the battery to the trunk, though that'd require a vented AGM battery. Or go all out and get a lithium battery and then just leave it up front as they weigh just a few pounds. Spare tire well makes for a good ballast holder, sand bags conform nicely and easy enough to fine tune and remove as wanted. Would probably throw in a sheet of plastic to catch any granules that might escape.

Something else to do if you're not already is to implement left foot braking, helps out FWD cars and nose heavy RWD cars as well. Can Google it and find plenty of detailed information, though it's something that'll take some practice especially with having a clutch as well. Maybe something to do in the off season.

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My plan was to Lexan up a CF hatch but....(continues below)

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Dustin is so far away.....

Despite my previous though of "I dont need to remove any more weight in the rear" removing weight it removing weight. I need to do it one way or another. If I dont get my hands on that CF hatch then yeah, I was planning on getting a spare hatch and Lexan'ing the crap out of it.

Dustin is so far away...and not everything fits in my Fit...sadly.

>
I already have an AGM battery but at 15lbs (for the time being, I definitely could change my mind) that I have thought about moving to the back but its not really worth the effort at the moment....but that my change down the road.

Ive practiced left foot braking in my DD Fit, never tried it in the Celica yet.



Among the ITB research and EMS stuff, I have begun to plan out the new exhaust route.
It will either run REALLY tight along the underside of the spare tire bubble OR I could cut out a section of the spare tire well to allow the exhaust to tuck up further...still in the early stages of this



afternoon boredom had me make this crude ms-paint mashup


This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Sep 23, 2015 - 2:55 PM

after a week or so of more research on engine building I will be putting extra emphasis on "THIS IS A LONG TERM VEBTURE" I think the "right" way to do it would be to get everything from Glenn (Celica RA45) in Australia who seems to be the BEAMS god, and rather than try and re-invent the wheel with modifying the BEAMS, that it would be better to trust proven modifications that Glenn has tested.


Looking towards re-routing the end of my exhaust so that it mounts higher up so that it would end up like the picture below.


I am trying to figure out if I want to run it tight up against the spare wheel well bump or cut out and push up a section of the spare area to really tuck the exhaust up.
After that is said and done I will probably start looking for a wider diffuser which means I will probably be selling the RT-P CF Diffuser!



This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Oct 2, 2015 - 12:14 PM

I have a cf hatch, no glass. maybe trade?

>
since when do you have a cf hatch just lying around??
Give it here!

Weekly I have the crisis of "what can I do to get more, reasonable power"
The answer I usually quell myself with is "thats not todays problem so calm the hell down"
I am happy with the power it puts out now but I would still like to plan out what direction I want to take and not knowing that yet is frustrating for some reason.

Friends and people I have met have been pushing me to Turbo the BEAMS, and for some reason I stubbornly resist the 'easy way out' albeit the cheapest, most reliable, probably the best way to get more power.

From what it seems to REALLY achieve the N/A power I would want, the motor probably wouldnt be very streetable and there is no way I am running the motor on 100octane and going on my weekly strolls on the streets.

SO despite my hatred of its ease, I have added Turbo into the queue of considerations for power (though its VERY low on the list). 8lbs would be nice


back to AERO and WEIGHT, the task at hand.

CF hatch this weekend.

Have an appointment with a fabricator to help re-route my exhaust. Might drop off the car the end of next week although I am still unsure if I want to have it hug the spare wheel well or cut a shallow tunnel in it and push up the exhaust some more.

Found a supplier of lexan windows for the ST205. Still considering going that route, They supply ALL the windows in lexan (minus the windsheild) but I think I might just start with the hatch. They have sent out a sample pack of their material for me to check out.

CF hood early next month.

New front bumper next month....if I decide that I like how it looks.


if not the only good way to adapt a splitter to the post face would be like this


This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Oct 16, 2015 - 9:19 AM

You guys have 93 octane? You can run 94 octane on a 12.5-13.5 compression ratio. I'm sure a few places around you have 94 octane. 100 seems like overkill. That's what celicaRA45 told me when I asked about his custom beams parts

thats the BEAMS beverage of choice, yeah 93 is easily found.
He suggested 98 & 100 to me a couple weeks ago with his 13.5CR pistons. But I think overkill is what is needed to get it to 250whp.

Dog he is clearly referring to their RON rating, not octane

Beams run best in 93/94 octane =98/100 RON

If anything you can install water/method injection. Haha or go E85

CF hatch ?
You coming up this weekend ?

>
That would make sense. It would be surprising for him to tell people 2 different things.
BUT I dont think he would have suggested to run the same octane that the engine is already running on. Or maybe he was saying that the build wouldnt require more than 93.

I had thought of both of those but I would rather not go beyond easily available pump gas


>
Oh...I thought you were coming to me!

But this is solid info I got from him hence all the prices and proper specs
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...61995&st=40

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Oct 17, 2015 - 1:28 AM

I was going to ask you to provide some PM info from him and BOOM you did, nice...but I still don't think it's making it clear...for me atleast.
He says there that Waynos was running 98 octane. Waynos lives in the U.S. So would he be talking about US 98 and not 98RON?
If that theory is correct, wouldn't it make sense that 100octane would match up with a 13.5-1 CR?


It's also funny to see how minimally he answers haha he does the same with me but looking back I've figured that he's been dealing with this for YEARS

Ya your internet searches will do this justice.

Only places around my area are the VP fuels that are located with 76 gas stations. With the the exception of one at a car wash. I never seen any 98 octane. Only 100 or 110 octanes, but each state is different at $9.50-10 per gallon seems terribly high for a daily

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Oct 17, 2015 - 1:30 PM

93 AKI will support 12:1 compression in most instances. Another thing that also comes into consideration is your cam overlap and dynamic compression. If you have a lot of E85 stations nearby that'd be a cheap source of 96 AKI, but would require reconfiguring the car for it. I'd be tempted to look into a ProCharger as it'd help the weak points of the BEAMS and round out its power range. At least a supercharger helped out the 2ZZ-GE tremendously, something to look into anyway.

>
there are a couple performance shops that sell 98 100 and 110

Sometimes you can get lucky and find 100 at a gas station local to a racetrack

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A supercharger would be ideal yeah, but I dont like how people mount it in the rear of the motor(maybe thats just how the MR2s did it)


in other news picked up that hatch
along with a bumper....that is useless to me lol

where'd you get that bumper from?

andrew (purplegt4)
since we are color twins and he had a spare i figured why not

Why is it useless?

its useless for me since I dont plan on using it at all and the fender mount on the one side has nearly sheared off. Fixable but I wont go through the efffort
SS-Four would be nice but more holes more drag

You will extract a few more ponies with a proper header, that eBay design isn't that great

probably, but I would rather spend $1500 on engine work than on a custom header

so last week took a lil leap and removed the back section of the exhaust to be redone




re positioning the diffuser to its new position


dropped the car off for fab. going to have a few pie cut sections in the new exhaust so thatll be a sweet sight!

I like how you went through the trouble of getting the GT-R into that last shot.

many already saw on FB but gotta update the main page!

Didint really have the best experience with this fabrication shop and the quality of the welds are good but not as pretty as the work from the fabricator that did the last version. As long as it flow then Its okay I guess.

here are a couple shots.

The pipes extend out a little further than I want and will probably go back this weekend to cut them back an inch.
I also adjusted the angle of the diffuser a bit (not pictured) so that the bottom of the Y pipe wasnt touching it and so it would be a bit more level.

Also have to wrap the exhaust again where it routes under the gas tank and I also figured I woud do it up to the Y section so that thin metal in the trunk area wont be effected by the heat. I also need to find a solution to protect the crash bar and other metal above the exhaust so that it doesnt rust out.

After that, onto front splitter work and MAYBE a full underbody tray done up with Alumalite.















This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 16, 2015 - 9:34 AM