Your car looks so $hitty without the lense over the light in the hatch.
Fail.

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Got a butt load done this weekend.
removed the bracket for the belt PS pump. Its so empty down there now as well as where the old reservoir area




picked up the brackets I had welded. not bad for free!



bracket welded for the fan



got to work with the garage doors open, 60 degrees!!!


the rest of these pics are primarily of the bracketing and mounting of the pump












Basically mounted and done! Still have about a days work before I can run it. Hopefully it works!






This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Feb 20, 2017 - 9:20 AM

Wow, really ambitious! Nice work.

What fluid are you using ?
MR2s have a specific fluid, not regular stuff.

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Thanks! hopefully it all pans out haha

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Yeah, I saw that its been discontinued.
Doing a bit of digging came to find Nissan EHPS fluid and Amsoil EHPS Fluid where the two alternatives to the crazy expensive toyota brand fluid

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Is it specific to the pump or the rack. Cuz would it not be the celi rack

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specific for the pump. Im not sure yet how it will affect the rack. I havent read anything on it yet but I am still looking.
This is the name of the Amsoil Fluid:
Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Power Steering Fluid

decided on Pentosin CHF 11S
It should work fine with the pump, and fingers crossed shouldnt cause any leaks in the rack. From what I could find the seal material doesnt really differ between our rack and the MRS, its just the fluid that changes

My brother's Audi calls for Pentosin CHF 202, what're the differences between it and the CHF 11S I don't know since they're both synthetic hydraulic fluids and seem to have the same specs but it does say "power steering fluid" on the CHF 202 container. I also noticed the CHF 202 was green, which I guess could come in handy for differentiating a power steering or brake leak just by the fluid colour.

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I havent found any info on the difference between the two other than one comment on a forum saying that the 202 is the replacement for the 11S. BUT Pentosin still markets the two together. They are both compatible and mixable with eachother.
Yeah, I found out today that it was green when I was looking into the brand a bit futher. I am ALL about having different colored fluids. My brake fluid is Blue (which has now since been banned and is only offered in amber color now, I only have half a liter of it left ), PS will be Green, Oil is ...oil, and coolant is pinkish. I wont have any issues now trying to differentiate the fluids if there is ever a leak haha.

Speaking of the ATE Super Blue I found someone that still has it listed for sale:
http://www.mzmperformance.com/ate-super-bl...luid-dot-4.html

They're BBB accredited and located in Texas, I just finished switching to Castrol DOT 4 otherwise I would try ordering some now.

AWESOME find!! I will have to order some from them this weekend. My plan was to have both blue and amber so it would be easier to tell when the old fluid is completely flushed out.



for those of you reading and would like to know why I am so excited to possibly have a source for ATE Blue ( I am going to call them about their stock)

http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-n...s-distribution/

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Mar 1, 2017 - 3:26 PM

got fluid in the system and no leaks so far....so far.



here are a couple pics I took while getting some more things situated
I wasnt able to get the pump running with the relay attached. When power was applied, the relay and pump just kept clicking but not engaging. So I took out the relay, left the circuit breaker and wired the pump to a switch. I had taken off the pump ecu cover and the bottom half just to make sure the pump wasnt the issue.


the main issue of the weekend was mounting the lines under the car. I only had one avenue in mind and the lines hug so close together that there is no way to use adel clamps or any other sort of hose separator. SO I came up with the idea to make some of these






Had to add in the new sensors for the racepak





trying out motul for the first time, probably wont be able to tell the difference


also saw something that Im not sure if this is an issue or not but I will have to monitor it.
Oil permeating from the hose coming from the intake

Do you have an idea of what you spent on this steering project?
Looks great as usual.

You should probably get some real hoses cause those are sh!t and did the same thing when I bought my alltrac.. (PO installed them)

Otherwise she's looking great man!

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Yup, I have a very clear idea. One that I am doing my best to try and forget

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They are fine for vacuum but I guess if there is any sort of oil in the system it will permeate out of that hose. I guess that's why my catch tank hasn't been picking up anything

quick update on the power steering. I drove the car for the first time since November and now with the new PS setup. The pump is a little finicky, but there are alot of variables in why it is acting the way it is. Its a used pump so I cant say for sure if it is in 100% tip top shape. Ill do a summary right up in a couple weeks once I play around with the setup a bit more, but for now it is working so on to the last project of the "winter"


the last thing before spring is the lip and skirts. I have never done a lick of body work and I already am nervous about pulling the trigger on mounting anything, both for the semi-permanence of the application of the lip (not being able to remove the bumper without removing the lip) and for the questionable aesthetic look of how the lip and skirts will look together.

Here are the 2 issues that I am fighting with:
1. Mounting the front lip and having it be removable all while not showing any sort of visible holes or whatever needed for nuts and bolts. I want an adhesive mount look but a nut and bolt mount hold
2. Are the design of the skirts going to match with the lip since the lip sticks out quite a bit towards the rear

While I battle and try to find a solution for both of those problems, here are a few pics of them poorly mocked up









This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 3, 2017 - 10:52 AM

Hmmm, at some angles like the second picture I think it could work but then in the third and fourth picture I'm not entirely sure.

the lip flares out at the side which is kinda mimicked by the side skirts as well so it could work.

As for mounting, the lip can be held on by double-sided tape where it touches the bumper on the sides and in the middle grill area. That's how i did my TOMs lip. Not sure how the bottom of that lip is as it's fiberglass rep but the TOMs lip has mounting points that line up with where the underplastics attach to the bumper so maybe you could make something simliar to mount it. My lip is definitely not permanent as I used to take it off when I drove it in the winter and it took all of 5 minutes to mount/unmount.

This post has been edited by cheela: Apr 3, 2017 - 1:31 PM

You are right they do kind of match in that sense.

I'm sure the OE or TRD skirts would match better.

Maybe I am underestimating the hold of tape? I have some but was really hoping for a more solid mount. Something that would prevent a tearoff from a bit o downforce

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Apr 18, 2017 - 8:05 AM

tackling a few tasks concurrently

lip and skirts still are at paint

instead of building a new smaller diffuser or re-doing the one I already made I saved the money I would have used on that, sold the CUSCO underbrace and grabbed



I had been eying these for the past 2 years and had been frequently checking in to see if I could get them anodized a different color. no go




so I got them powder coated





picked up some RPF1's for cheap. the fronts are going to be tricky to fit so I am not sure if I will keep them or not







and the lucky 96 camry that was kind enough to donate its hubs to me.
had to push out the pos next to get some space to access the camry

Looking good! keep it up!

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Just one lip hey? Did you end up deciding to not keeping the Aeromagic front?
Are those the rear trailing arms? How will those compare in ride to having a Heim joint rather than rubber bushings?

Really curious to hear how those T3 rear arms affect ride quality. Racecars gotta drive on roads too sometimes.

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he lives!!!!!

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I have the Aeromagic and the Euro sides at paint, I am keeping the front lip but the sides...remains to be seen
yup all the arms in the rear.
It will probably be a bit harsher of a ride in the rear but not really noticeable in my situation

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my car is stiff as hell already id be surprised if I notice much of a difference

You'll just get more harshness transmitted into the body of the car, shouldn't really make it stiffer per se. When I replace the rear arms on the Firebird I was going to go with Johnny/Roto joints since they offer the articulation benefits of a Heim joint but with reduced harshness, plus they can be rebuilt.

T3 stuff is awesome!
I got a list of about $2000 or $3000 worth of stuff to buy from them for my 1st gen. basically all the suspension parts. lol

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Nothing wrong with that, pretty much how it is with me and the bird. Everything I want to do is brakes and suspension. You should see if anyone makes a Watt's link for the first gen Celica, I know it's the first major mod I want to do with the Firebird.