Hey all, I'm having some problem with my brakes heres an example: I'm driving down the road at 40mph I see yellow lights ahead so I slow down with the brake pedal about half way down but once I get to the lights with my brake pedal 3/4 way down the brakes would lock up and my car would skid about an inch. Does that mean I still have air in my brake lines or are the new brakes and rotors just working too well ?? Any input would be appreciated Thanks.

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Brake Specs
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-Hawk HPS Pads
-Brembo Rotors
-ATE Blue Racing Brake Fluid
-New Ebrake shoes lol
-SS Brake Lines
-All Greased up in the right areas

And yes I broke in the pads and rotors.

air in system = less brake power, so you'd have to REALLY step on it to make the car stop.

so you're saying your car stops too soon ? I don't get what you say

Sorry its been a long day for me lol when I press down about 3/4 on the brake pedal coming to a stop my brakes locks up on me and my car would skid. Feels like I'm getting too much braking power like someone slamming on their brakes when their going 40mph and the car skids/slides.

What exactly is "racing brake fluid" and why do you need it while driving to work and/or school?


Maybe its a caliper issue? Do you have ABS?

My calipers are still good I just replaced the pass rear which was having problems. I wanted to try the blue fluid which is suppose to have a higher boiling point. Over kill for this 5s but preparing for "more power" in the future.

Edit: Sorry I don't have ABS.

This post has been edited by Remy: Apr 11, 2009 - 6:50 PM

bleed it and see. it couldnt hurt to try. Unless the racing fluid is like $10 a can

I think its that awesome German brake fluid... don't trust the Germans

So your having brake grabbing at 3/4? Is it one brake, is it the whole front set, rear, all of it? You getting any vibration...etc.
Here is some stuff brought to you by google...
"GRABBING BRAKES: Often signs of a leaking brake caliper, master cylinder or wheel cylinder."

As far as the pedal play till this happens, I dunno. Usually grabbing brakes is "at the slightest tough" kind of things. But who knows. I would strip it down and do a vis inspec on all your components first before bleeding. You may have allowed some form of contamination into your system when you changed your fluid, pads, rotors, and new SS lines.

This post has been edited by Spider77: Apr 11, 2009 - 8:02 PM

Well the brake bites too well...it bites so well the brakes would lock up on me if the brake pedal is pressed all the way down. Its more expensive then the regular brake fluid I don't really want to bleed it again I did it 2x now. I hear good stuff about the blue fluid I just wanted to "try" it thats all.

its the stainless braided lines you've got DUH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I put the old hoses back on still the same Willz lol.

Edit: I didn't use the mighty vac to bleed the brakes put you don't need too. PR,DR,PF then DF thats how I bleed it.

This post has been edited by Remy: Apr 12, 2009 - 10:42 AM

what about you don't press 3/4 ? go a little easier on them.

I think you're just not use to your new brakes, you don't have ABS, so if you lock the brakes you'll skid, you have to leanr how to drive with your new brake set-up, that's all.



BTW, how much did you spend on the whole brake upgrade ? I'm curious

Well as I slow down though to come to a complete stop I would need to push the brake down more but thats where it happens when the brake locks up I noticed this problem when this lady slammed on here brakes and I was going maybe 20mph behind her and the brakes locked up instead of slowing down and then coming to a stop if any of you guys understand that lol maybe I just have to get used to this set-up thanks everyone.

I've spent maybe $400 including new pins, cups and hold down springs for the ebrakes and a rear set of calipers.

I haven't seen a spec of brake dust in this past 2 weeks and no brake noises/squeals at all.

Maybe when I swap to a 3s my brakes will go back to normal lol right now their too strong for this 5s.

Thanks again all.