Ok so I relocated my Battery to my trunk. I grounded the battery negative to the trunk frame. Well the problem is, im now having starting issues. It sounds like when i dont have enough juice to start the engine. Now if i dont run the car at least once a day, the battery dies. WTF is the problem, can anyone offer some advice?

This post has been edited by sapperk: May 2, 2009 - 6:22 PM

When i try to jump it shouldnt the lights at least come on when i have a good car and battery hooked up with the jumper cables. I dont get anything.

what size wire did you use for the + and the - ?

Not sure the guage but standard battery wires that came with the kit. And did i mention my brand new battery is dead after only about 1 weeks of not starting it?

I suggest you change the wires for something like 35mm2 diameter. Also connect a groundwire directly from the battery to the gearbox/engine (in combination with the trunk ground wire)

Ok I will try to add multiple grounds this weekend. I was trieing to avoid running another battery cable all the way back to the engine compartment. But i will try and see if that works.

The smallest wire (the lower the number, the larger the wire) I'd run is 4ga. Any kit you would buy would probably use that size.

A wire to the front for ground will help tremendously - solve the problem most likely.

I have relocated bat's to the rear before, and there was a noticeable difference in each car I've done it in when I ran a dedicated ground wire from the rear to the front... with that said, everytime I've done it, the rear bat grounded to the body has been at least totally functional, just not as strong a start as stock. It sounds here like you are missing a ground connection from the engine to the body... but regardless, the dedicated line is definitely worth doing.

This post has been edited by crankyelbow: May 14, 2009 - 7:45 PM

your car is not properly grounded.
ive had it both ways, with a ground running to the front, and grounded at the rear, its the same, as long as its done properly.
make sure your gounds are making metal to metal contact in the rear, and add a ground from tranny to chassis at the front.

agreed with with presure i havent done this with the batt but i have done it to amps and it sounds like its not getting proper ground........if u have a volt gauge hooked up in ur car i would check it to see if ur alt. is even getting contact to ur batt.......also be sure u are not using any thing smaller then 4 gauge wire.......and by smaller i mean skinner such as 6gauge or 8gauge.......4 gauge down to 1 gauge will work 1 being the best 4 being the limit......and be sure u have a safty batt disconect....

This post has been edited by Dragondog: May 17, 2009 - 3:21 PM

Dragondog,

So what you are saying is that the alternator could not even be charging the battery if it is not connected correctly through ground with the battery? Would connecting a 4GA cable from the alternator to the battery fix the problem of the alternator not charging the battery as much as it should?

>


What exactly do you mean by a dedicated ground wire from the rear to the front? Would this be splitting the negative terminal into two different chassis grounds, one in the back and one in the front?

yes if the cycle of positive and nigitive are not compleat the charge is no good it takes two to work...for exm==the positive wire must read same current as negitive if negitive is reading lower the positive will be lower....the current is always equal..........imo its best to run one 4gauge ground wire from batt to the front conected to a ground wire kit,,, the ground wire kit will be conected to the main ground wire while all the other ground wires in the kit be conected to the locations ground is needed...such as chasie...and altenator..ect.......further explain what i would do is run the ground to the front conect it to the chasie along with the ground wire hunny comb(kit) and have all the leads come from the hunny comb to there desired locations....starter, alt, throtel body, and so....where u decide to locate the ground with the hunny comb is entirly up to you just be sure the leads r in reach of there destination

edit::the more ground the better.....one 4gauge runnin from batt to the motor bay along with a ground kit will solve the problem....... not nessesary but it wouldnt hurt to ground the batt to the back chasie where its located....as well as the front...just be sure not to cross conect negitive and positive together

This post has been edited by Dragondog: May 20, 2009 - 2:18 PM

there is no need for all that extra crap.
a few GOOD grounds is all the car needs.
two from motor to chassis, one for the alternator, and a good solid one for the battery.
all this splitter, grounding kit stuff is just extra crap you dont need.

what presure said will work but i disagree on the ground kit....a ground kit is good to have it provides EXTRA ground directly to the batt the more ground the better the responce....a ground kit will do just as presure says plus ground a little extra.....basicly like useing smaller wire for batt wire u wouldnt use a 6, 8, or 12 ga wire RIGHT....when u limit the ground well then u limit the ground and u already know what happends when u limit the ground but when u provide the ground extra routes then u have a full circuit.......the way presure says it will work for that would be factory.....btw a ground kit is not used to replace any other ground it just provides more ground