808celica

#1

gonna set up this thread before i foget. I'll be pulling the trans and everything else with it so people car use this, or not, as reference to removing axles, starter, and transmission.

not gonna be a perfect thread but it should do.


-unhook battery

-remove cruise control when applicable

-remove starter


-unhook shifter cables


-remove slave from trans

-drain tranny

-remove axles










remove speed sensor
-----its behind the shifter cables just unhook it like the back up light

-remove backup light sensor


-remove center cross member


-remove front mount



-remove rear mount



-support engine, unbolt trans mount



-support trans



-lowering trans




-remove Pressure plate, disk, bearing








-remove fork (cuz im replacing mines) it just pulls right out



Installation is reverse sorry i didnt get pics i was doing this part by myself

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jun 17, 2010 - 9:48 PM

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

808celica

#2

pics are up of some stuff. those who are removing axles you dont need to unhook your swaybar links

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

lagos

#3

VERY COOL!
btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way.

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15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

808celica

#4

>

QUOTE (lagos @ Jun 30, 2009 - 5:32 PM)

>VERY COOL!
btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way.

yeah that was my other option but i dont wanna mess with my camber

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

ksporry

#5

Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions:
1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny?
2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts?
3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount?
4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny?

presure2

#6

>

QUOTE (ksporry @ Jul 1, 2009 - 6:49 AM)

>Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions:
1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny?
2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts?
3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount?
4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny?

the front and rear mount are attched to the crossmember, that has to come out to lower the engine to remove and install the tranny. so yes, the front mount has to come out.

the engine and tranny are held in place by the drivers side tranny mount, and the passanger side engine mount. the front and rear mount are there basicly just to stop the motor from turning on itself.
you need to support the engine when you undo the tranny mount.
you have to remove the 3 mounts i talked about earlier, then lower the engine/tranny combo to be able to get the tranny off and on.

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

dgbldr

#7

Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

presure2

#8

>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM)

>Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch.

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

lagos

#9

>

QUOTE (808celica @ Jul 1, 2009 - 6:25 AM)

>>

QUOTE (lagos @ Jun 30, 2009 - 5:32 PM)

>VERY COOL!
btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way.

yeah that was my other option but i dont wanna mess with my camber

it wont make a difference on the camber. camber is controlled by the two 19mm bolts that are connected to the strut. our cars have very little room for adjustment from those bolts, and you can simply push or pull the hub to/away from you to kick the camber out a little when you bolt everything back up. no negative impact to swinging that hub out, just less work.

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15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

GriffGirl

#10

>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 9:25 AM)

>>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM)

>Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch.

Plus once you get to that point, unbolting the tranny from the engine is just easy so you almost might as well anyway, even if you didn't have to (but you totally DO)

808celica

#11

>

QUOTE (ksporry @ Jul 1, 2009 - 1:49 AM)

>Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions:
1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny?
2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts?
3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount?
4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny?

yups like what everyone said

1.Yes front and rear
2.No like Presure2(Manny) said both right and left side engine mounts hold the engine and tranny while the front and rear mounts are out.
3. Yes put a wooden block between the oil pan and jack and support the engine. Then use a engine crane/cherry picker/transmission jack to support the transmission. Then remove the driver's side trans mount.
4. No you need to remove the front and rear engine mounts to get to the trans bolts and to lower the engine enough so you can slide out the trans. MAKE SURE YOU LOWER THE ENGINE ACCORDINGLY BECAUSE OF ALL THE WIRING AND YOUR EXHAUST.

>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 6:25 AM)

>>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM)

>Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch.

He has spoken

>

QUOTE (lagos @ Jul 1, 2009 - 7:02 AM)

>>

QUOTE (808celica @ Jul 1, 2009 - 6:25 AM)

>>

QUOTE (lagos @ Jun 30, 2009 - 5:32 PM)

>VERY COOL!
btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way.

yeah that was my other option but i dont wanna mess with my camber

it wont make a difference on the camber. camber is controlled by the two 19mm bolts that are connected to the strut. our cars have very little room for adjustment from those bolts, and you can simply push or pull the hub to/away from you to kick the camber out a little when you bolt everything back up. no negative impact to swinging that hub out, just less work.

Ahhh okay thanks Art. I've been doing my way for soo long its like second nature already.

Well i might as well remove my struts to put on my ebay coils cuz the 18's will go on for advertisement

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

Mstoochn

#12

folowed this guide for my auto to man swap.

presure2

#13

>

QUOTE

>Then use a engine crane/cherry picker/transmission jack to support the transmission.

lol..when i do it, i use the picker to hold the engine, placed in from the passanger side, attached to the drivers side engine hook.
then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done.

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

njccmd2002

#14

>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 6:24 PM)

>then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done.

no thanks sir. that is heavy. I used a jack and ropes to balance it... tried to bench press it but i almost end up hurting myself

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Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.

presure2

#15

>

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 5:38 PM)

>>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 6:24 PM)

>then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done.

no thanks sir. that is heavy. I used a jack and ropes to balance it... tried to bench press it but i almost end up hurting myself

yea, i use a jack with autos and the E153. now THATS a heavy transmission.

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

808celica

#16

>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 12:24 PM)

>>

QUOTE

>Then use a engine crane/cherry picker/transmission jack to support the transmission.

lol..when i do it, i use the picker to hold the engine, placed in from the passanger side, attached to the drivers side engine hook.
then i lay under the car, and bench press the tranny out, and back in after the clutch is done.

Cuz your a monsta!! if i was a badass mofo like you manny i would bench press the tranny too just lazy hahaha i guess that's the new generation always looking for the easy way

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

dgbldr

#17

>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 12:25 PM)

>>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM)

>Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch.

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. Once the trans is SEPARATED from the engine (like a few inches), is there enough room to replace the clutch with the trans still under the car, or do you have to roll it outside? What I'm getting at is this: If you need to roll it outside, the car needs to be sitting up higher on stands to clear, right?

808celica

#18

Oh i read your question right I doubt the pressure plate bolts are easy to get to with the trans oh say about 4in. from the engine. There is just no room to get at it safely IMO. My car is sitting about 4ft. in the air in my garage on jack just to let you know

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

presure2

#19

>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 10:03 PM)

>>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 12:25 PM)

>>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM)

>Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch.

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. Once the trans is SEPARATED from the engine (like a few inches), is there enough room to replace the clutch with the trans still under the car, or do you have to roll it outside? What I'm getting at is this: If you need to roll it outside, the car needs to be sitting up higher on stands to clear, right?

the tranny slides right out the wheelwell with the car on jackstands

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

808celica

#20

if i dont get caught up ripping everything apart i'll take pics.

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

808celica

#21

dONE!! putting the motor was a PITA!!! and the rear mount was a bitch too. pics

have a little pridicament though friggin leaking gear oil right where my driver's axle goes in the trans. i forget that name of that seal well back to toyota again i guess

found the seal its listed as oil seal for differential side bearing retainer #90311-35019


Driver's axle how to write up from someone else

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jul 3, 2009 - 7:20 PM

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

808celica

#22

>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 5:03 PM)

>>

QUOTE (presure2 @ Jul 1, 2009 - 12:25 PM)

>>

QUOTE (dgbldr @ Jul 1, 2009 - 11:17 AM)

>Once you get to that point, where the engine and trans are lowered and separated, is there enough room to replace the clutch without taking the trans out?

you dont have a choice but to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch.

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. Once the trans is SEPARATED from the engine (like a few inches), is there enough room to replace the clutch with the trans still under the car, or do you have to roll it outside? What I'm getting at is this: If you need to roll it outside, the car needs to be sitting up higher on stands to clear, right?

i doubt you'll have space to do this if the trans was still there

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

cardshark525

#23

Well I'm glad I found this thread. Just my $0.02 this should be in the how-to section up front or stickied.

My clutch is slipping and need to change it.... a week after I spent nearly a grand to replace my timing belt and alternator.

Hopefully this will help save me some money.

Great write up, awesome pictures, and thank you very much.

808celica

#24

Wow you dug this up Hahah Now that's using the search button any questions post in here

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

cardshark525

#25

>

QUOTE (808celica @ Nov 12, 2009 - 10:42 PM)

>Wow you dug this up Hahah Now that's using the search button any questions post in here

Just a few.

I'm doing the job this Sunday provided that my clutch arrives on time.

How bad did your car spill its guts in your garage/driveway? I'm trying not to completely stain the driveway so I'll be putting a tarp down, but I would like to know what to prepare for. Typical oil change (a little drip here and there), or like... an anti-freeze change where its ganna get all over the place?

Only other real question is a combo.... how long did the job take you all together start to finish? How many people did you have help or were you flying solo? Which part took the longest? How much of a bitch were the axles?


Thank you for the info. Yea I searched because I couldn't believe there wasn't a sticky or anything on something as typical to do on our cars as change our a clutch. Should be right next to the drum-disk brake conversion how-to as far as I'm concerned.

Again thanks for offering to help out, I'm sure we'll run into something on the way that will have us scratching our heads.

epocsirhc

#26

I've never done a clutch but axles are easy. It took me longer messing with the carrier bearing(i think) on the passenger axle than to actually change it out.

808celica

#27

>

QUOTE (cardshark525 @ Nov 17, 2009 - 4:34 PM)

>Just a few.

I'm doing the job this Sunday provided that my clutch arrives on time.

How bad did your car spill its guts in your garage/driveway? I'm trying not to completely stain the driveway so I'll be putting a tarp down, but I would like to know what to prepare for. Typical oil change (a little drip here and there), or like... an anti-freeze change where its ganna get all over the place?
I drained the gear oil in a bucket i cut in half, then put that oil in an oil change box (try not to recycle gear oil since you're there).

Only other real question is a combo.... how long did the job take you all together start to finish? How many people did you have help or were you flying solo? Which part took the longest? How much of a bitch were the axles?
From 9am to 5pm with breaks like lunch, tv time, piss break, and stuff like that. Had just my cousin (Herosblade) and I doing this in my garage. The part that took the longest was dropping and raising the tranny out and back in. Axles were kinda easy cuz i did axle jobs before so i knew what to do.

Thank you for the info. Yea I searched because I couldn't believe there wasn't a sticky or anything on something as typical to do on our cars as change our a clutch. Should be right next to the drum-disk brake conversion how-to as far as I'm concerned.

Again thanks for offering to help out, I'm sure we'll run into something on the way that will have us scratching our heads.

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

cardshark525

#28

I've got another question as we're nearing game time....

And let me know if you'd rather have these here or in a pm.

Did you have a difficult time getting the tranny off? I was told by a family member who just changed the tranny on his truck that I'd need a gun and a torch in order to loosen the bolts on the tranny, is this accurate?

I know that it'll depend on how old the car is, weather in the area and so on, but did you have trouble with this?

Also what are the torque specs on it?

808celica

#29

>

QUOTE (cardshark525 @ Nov 18, 2009 - 7:41 PM)

>I've got another question as we're nearing game time....

And let me know if you'd rather have these here or in a pm.

Did you have a difficult time getting the tranny off? I was told by a family member who just changed the tranny on his truck that I'd need a gun and a torch in order to loosen the bolts on the tranny, is this accurate?

I know that it'll depend on how old the car is, weather in the area and so on, but did you have trouble with this?

Also what are the torque specs on it?

First time i had the tranny out the bolts came out easy with a cordless snap-on electric impact gun and went in with that same gun.

1 1/2 later doing the tranny drop in this post i only used 1/2in drive rachet with a breaker bar with some good effort to get them off.
Take not that I live near the ocean and i never did clean the engine bay are (top of bottom)
Having any Pnuematic tool on had is always a plus whether you need it or not.

I dont remember the torque specs i did but i do know it was hand tightened at first then a couple weeks later i re-torqued to the specs in the book. I would say no tighter than 60 should be good. IMO you dont wanna over tighten in that area.

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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

KAOS

#30

>

QUOTE (lagos @ Jun 30, 2009 - 9:32 PM)

>VERY COOL!
btw, you dont need to remove your hubs or your tie rods. you can just unbolt the top two suspension bolts, and swing the whole assembly out of the way.

What top two bolts are you referring to here? Would you happen to have pics to show us?

(I have to swap out a tranny right away here and want as much research under my belt as possible before I start... hence the "back from the dead" thread)

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KAOS|THE PROGRESSION - SLOW & STEADY|PARTING OUT- it ALL must go!|