Soo..........had a trans problem

and here is the culprit




everything checks out okay here


old and new



the new oem grade parts


new fork, bearing clip, and shifter selector arms



Herosblade (my cousin) out with the old and in with the new


soooo what you think??? my 5s has toooo much power

this was a great job to do. was a big pain but well worth the laughs. we had a good time

is it up and running yet?

what was your first reaction when you you pulled that out?

So she's back up and running? Great.

yeah she's running but i have a bigger problem now. i cant get into second while driving. everything checks out fine, all other gears work. clutch pedal is still krispy kreme soft but im able to get into gear. second is soo mushy soft that i dont know the difference between staying in neutral or if it actually went in 2nd and when i drop the clutch the car doesnt jerk like normal and i hit the gas and the car just revvs

holy crap man.
do you drive with your foot on the clutch pedal?

sounds like the system isnt blead very well.
mightyvac FTW.

You MFer!!!! quit playing with my emotions!! I'm glad you got it all goin!

give it 3 -4 weeks, it will get hard. It happened to me..

i know your pain (except my clutch pads were gone on the disk and wearing down the rivets). just keep bleeding the clutch man, i had to do mine a LOT since i didn't gravity bleed it. I still need to bleed it more 3rd was bein a butt today.

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yup yup picked up one

haha i dont drive with my left foot down

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Brady got a kid that wants it. need to fix this problem though

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well it seems like 2nd isnt going all the way in if i dont press the clutch and try to put into 2nd it doesnt grind right away, only when the stick looks like its in the gate is when is starts to grind a little like your just entering the gate


oh yeah.......clutch pedal spontaneously pulls itself down faulty new master????

yeah i need to gravity bleed mines too. its hard trying to have the bleeding nipple drip every 5 seconds and then coming up here to forums and going back down to check the fluid level Hahaha

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Wow the erection takes that long booo well hopefully it does.

I never heard about waiting that long. It should be good at the time you do it.

yeah it should be good immediately... are you guys bleeding the clutch right??? its really not tough... two people makes it easier but it can be done with one...

loosen bleeder at slave... push pedal to floor, tighten bleeder - pull pedal up.... repeat 4-5 times.... check fluid level - refill... repeat previous process , after refill this time - with bleeder closed - pump pedal about 15-20 times.... then release bleeder again... push to floor, tighten, pull up... pump 15-20 times.... release bleeder, to floor, tighten, up... pump... refill level.... done... should be good to go forever if you have no leaks

and just to explain the process.... when you push the pedal down... the air is pushed forward out the bleeder.... when you pull it up... its sucks fluid into the line to replace the air you pushed out.... pumping it compresses the fluid and builds firmness to the pedal...

caution: do it somewhere where you can get the floor wet... you will be shooting clutch fluid all over the place

yeah my dad and i was doing that. sometimes the pedal pulls itself down. got new slave and master, you think the master is faulty?? like when we open the bleeder and push the like the 3rd time we do that the pedal pulls itself down. then we close and i have to pull it up and pump.


still tripping that the pressure plate came out like that.

you should try doing a clutch pedal adjustment. if the clutch grabs right off the floor, than that could fix it.

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k i'll keep playing round with that.

i should just drive 1st all the way up to 5k and shift to 3rd

Hey Jon, when the car is off try pumping the clutch pedal till it gets firm. If it does then start the car and press the clutch pedal again, and this time if it's spongy or drops back down with no firmness then yeah you might have a defective master cylinder. Too bad I can't fly up cause i'd definitely help you get that car up and running in no time

This post has been edited by netrata: Jul 5, 2009 - 3:39 AM

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k shoots nolan. mahalos everyone looking for a s54 trans (newer not beat up one Haha)

so what you think nolan?? you gon rep hawaii in the calendar??

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jul 4, 2009 - 10:13 PM

did you take the slave cylinder off? or did you undo the clutch line when you took the greabox out and leave the slave cylinder on the gearbox?

how are you bleeding your clutch?

i think the shifter selector arms are adjustable, so align them to how they were orginally.

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slave and lines where off the trans hanging by a wire to the radiator hose.

how im bleeding the clutch???....

like what everyone's saying; open bleeder, push pedal, close bleeder. and when there is no pedal pressure i have to pump the pedal then repeat.

selector arms and all stuff were replaces and installed the same.

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jul 5, 2009 - 2:35 AM

pump the pedal, hold it to the floor.

have someone watch the slave.

if it stays out, untill you lose pedal pressure, the master is faulty.
if the slave goes out, but starts retracting soon after, the slave is bad.
but, if you never opened the line (since you removed the slave, you shouldnt have had to) you shouldnt even have had to bleed it.
and seriously, buy a mightyvac. you can get it at autozone for ~20-30$, without a doubt one of the best investments i've ever got for the garage. makes bleeding clutch lines, brakes, ect a one man job. (not to mention its much faster than the old pump and hold method.)

manny i did Hahaha im getting the clear stream with no bubbles. oh i did bench bleed the master too so i dont know why