confused again (because of spacers and rotors etc..)


-Culpable04+

-Culpable04+


ok I have a set of correct offset rims (trust me I do ) & the most important pieces the GT-4 brakes: calipers and the standard 315mm* rotors.

However for the rotors to fit you require them to be 297mm or smaller? I dont suppose there are a set of 297mm by 32mm thick rotors? Is it safe to take the 18mm off the standard rotors to get to 297mm rotors?
Other parts required to for these to work: 3mm wheel spacers (1 for each front wheel) the longer stainless steel brakelines and the calipers need to be tap and threaded. The caliper required to some work aswell?

sorry for taking long,

if you are trying to do this conversion using ST205 rotors, you'll have to follow the previously made post, as I didn't use ST205 disc there are small diferences on the installation.

the rotors can be anywhere from 297 mm to 300 mm

I previously said 297 wouldn't work, but later we realize that I was using a 5th gen knuckle for test fitments and is slight diferent than a 6th gen knuckle,.

297 mm will put you right at the end of the pads, pad and rotor will meet perfectly at the end, so if you want a little extra disc go with 300 mm.

you won't need the small spacer for the disc, using ST205 disc, but I don't remember all the details so look for the post and follow it, maybe pm lubu for questions.

if you go with the Cadillac Catera disc, trhen I'll be here to guide you throught it.

Hmm Lubu hasn't been on since August, the things I dont like are the spacers between the calipers & the grinding down of the caliper. The other thing I haven't checked is would I be able to get a LLVTA cert (In NZ you have to get certain mods certified like: adjustable suspension, + Turbo, + engine cc/ + cylinders, roll cages etc)

>


with the ST205 rotors you will still need to grind the caliper down. the reason why I needed a 3 mm on the back of the rotor is because the disc would touch the ball joint without it.

if you are not in a rush, let me look and see if there is other rotor that you can use without the spacer on the back. but you will definately need to grind the caliper bracket, no way around that unless you do a SS III suspension conversion, the offset needed for the rotor to be center with the caliper is too deep and will hit the ball joint when driving.

Yea I understand culp, will also talk to guys on whether I would be able to get these certified.

note to anyone doing this


buy new brake shims ( supra TT ) along with the pads.



may seem basic but with all the excitement of completing this, I forgot to buy new ones when installed my pads, so you can just imagine how they sounded like, finally saturday I got the shim kit ( US$21.00 from the dealer ) and installed it Sunday, quiet and firm brakes, I coudln't be happier with the result of this. is not as hard as it may look once you have all the parts is just as hard as a regular brake job. If it wasn't so cold out I would do some 60 - 0 tests to get some performance numbers to compare with the stock brake system, but that will have to wait for better weather and bettter going power.

I guess eventhough I had the bad brake noise due to lack of shims, is also good to mention that all this time I've been driving my car with these brakes and other than the noise, no isses have been developed or noticed,

Hopefully a few more of you go this route instead of BBK for 1k or more, I agree with those who think the stock brakes do a good job, but the extra stopping power is not bad to have, specially if your car is accelarating faster than is was meant to. These brakes will come handy for auto X and road course in the spring time.