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FS: Eurou Raiser Blocks & CF Vent for GT4 Hood - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #70284 58 posts Started by vincent_doggy
>>>>>>Check out the pics, due to some technical issue, the 2 "HALF MOON" Vent don't have screws underneath, but simply stick on it with whatever reliable glues or double side adhersive tape is fine, since those are light in weight.

Not cover, direct replacement, need to remove your stocked one.

Robby test fit already and don't have problem so far.




USD$150 for all 3 vents, shipping should be around usd$20 more or less for all 3.

6 Colors to choose from

Most popular would be:
Black CF
Silver Kevlar

Yellow Black
Red Black
Blue Black

Mat Black

Eurou Raiser Blocks





FG USD$100 + Shipping
CF/Kevlar USD$160 + Shipping >
>
>
>>
>

This post has been edited by vincent_doggy: May 14, 2010 - 10:41 PM

Kamikaze eShop 神風 onFacebook
Put me down for the bonnet vents in black CF shipped to the UK smile.gif
Just need the full posted price and your paypal Vince

This post has been edited by Driveby: Oct 29, 2009 - 11:03 AM

1994 JDM GT4 WRC
The half moon cannot be screwed down? Thats a bit scary even if to use glue. That would be on my mind every time I drive worrying if its gonna fly off. I'm in Texas so when the summer time comes, it is hot and glue would not do.
Ill be using epoxy and some ground down bolts to attach mine with, theres always a way if you put your mind to it.

1994 JDM GT4 WRC
>
QUOTE (2bcelica @ Oct 31, 2009 - 10:17 PM) *
>The half moon cannot be screwed down? Thats a bit scary even if to use glue. That would be on my mind every time I drive worrying if its gonna fly off. I'm in Texas so when the summer time comes, it is hot and glue would not do.


Dude, I understand what u are worry of... your SUN is hotter than ours...
1. But I think once u drive forward, normally the air flow would go from front to rear... kinda like headwind all the time, so the vent would click well, thats my assumption
2. Use some silicone glue or anything that is more heavy duty, the windshield glass are also using silicone glue to stick on, i doubt that would fly off thou...


This post has been edited by vincent_doggy: Oct 31, 2009 - 12:07 PM

Kamikaze eShop 神風 onFacebook
I cant belive there isnt more interest on these?????? What is putting people off? fixing method? price?

1994 JDM GT4 WRC
I'm too poor to get the gt4 hood. Lol
Euro raiser blocks will be mine finally, buahaha.

Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
>
QUOTE (vincent_doggy @ Oct 27, 2009 - 4:28 AM) *
>>>>>>>Check out the pics, due to some technical issue, the 2 "HALF MOON" Vent don't have screws underneath, but simply stick on it with whatever reliable glues or double side adhersive tape is fine, since those are light in weight.

Not cover, direct replacement, need to remove your stocked one.

Robby test fit already and don't have problem so far.




USD$150 for all 3 vents, shipping should be around usd$20 more or less for all 3.

6 Colors to choose from

Most popular would be:
Black CF
Silver Kevlar

Yellow Black
Red Black
Blue Black

Mat Black

Eurou Raiser Blocks





FG USD$100 + Shipping
CF/Kevlar USD$160 + Shipping >
>
>
>>
>


im sorry to ask this that has nothing to do with ur ad but what type of rear lip is that?? the one on the black celi??
>
QUOTE (diegohiga @ Nov 7, 2009 - 1:05 AM) *
>>
QUOTE (vincent_doggy @ Oct 27, 2009 - 4:28 AM) *
>>>>>>>Check out the pics, due to some technical issue, the 2 "HALF MOON" Vent don't have screws underneath, but simply stick on it with whatever reliable glues or double side adhersive tape is fine, since those are light in weight.

Not cover, direct replacement, need to remove your stocked one.

Robby test fit already and don't have problem so far.




USD$150 for all 3 vents, shipping should be around usd$20 more or less for all 3.

6 Colors to choose from

Most popular would be:
Black CF
Silver Kevlar

Yellow Black
Red Black
Blue Black

Mat Black

Eurou Raiser Blocks





FG USD$100 + Shipping
CF/Kevlar USD$160 + Shipping >
>
>
>>
>


im sorry to ask this that has nothing to do with ur ad but what type of rear lip is that?? the one on the black celi??


404 I believe, its a very common one

Kamikaze eShop 神風 onFacebook
Do we need a list then?

Carbon Vents
1. Driveby - Black CF

This post has been edited by Driveby: Nov 10, 2009 - 1:18 PM

1994 JDM GT4 WRC
>
QUOTE (Driveby @ Nov 10, 2009 - 7:17 PM) *
>Do we need a list then?

Carbon Vents
1. Driveby - Black CF
2. Robby - Black CF

you have any half moon vents with defects that i could pick up at a discounted rate? i don't care what they look like since they'll be going on my rallyx car.
Eurou Raiser Blocks:

1) OOBE - CF

Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
Nobody else wants in? Come on, guys. smile.gif

Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
>
QUOTE (OOBE @ Nov 13, 2009 - 8:55 AM) *
>Eurou Raiser Blocks:

1) OOBE - CF
2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF

>
QUOTE (CelicaGTSboy23 @ Nov 28, 2009 - 9:33 AM) *
>>
QUOTE (OOBE @ Nov 13, 2009 - 8:55 AM) *
>Eurou Raiser Blocks:

1) OOBE - CF
2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF

3) Fate - Debating CF vs FG


The "Fly Low" Project: 3rd Gen 3SGTE
Is this still ongoing? I would be interested in the Eurou Blocks in FG, how much would the shipping be to the UK?
>
QUOTE (smirnoff @ Dec 15, 2009 - 9:31 PM) *
>Is this still ongoing? I would be interested in the Eurou Blocks in FG, how much would the shipping be to the UK?


USD$140 SHIPPED

Kamikaze eShop 神風 onFacebook
Eurou Raiser Blocks:

1) OOBE - CF
2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF
3) Fate - Debating CF vs FG
4) smirnoff - FG
Eurou Raiser Blocks:

1) OOBE - CF
2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF
3) Fate - Debating CF vs FG
4) smirnoff - FG

Hood Vents:

1) OOBE - Black CF

Come on, guys...let's do this!

This post has been edited by OOBE: Dec 30, 2009 - 12:57 AM

Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
Thanks to Vincent I now have my CF bonnet vents smile.gif
I know a few people were worried that the rear vents had no fixings fitted and were dubious of using sticky tape / glue to secure them so heres a quick how to for a more oem fitting.
You will need;
Suitable long enough bolts with nuts and washers, a spanner or ratchet and socket combo to remove the old vents and secure the new ones.
A suitable two pack epoxy or glue combo. Id say it would have to be a two pack variety as they cure quicker and are generally much more secure than standard type glues. I used JB Quick Weld as I cant rate this stuff highly enough.

Remove the standard vents by loosening the nuts that secure them.


Next place the new vent onto the bonnet (yeah you call it a hood wink.gif) some tape may come in helpful to secure it as your going to mark the bottom of the vent for where we're going to secure the bolts.


With the vent in place, raise the bonnet, and through the oem fixing holes mark the underside of the new vent. The hole is quite small, I used a welding rod to scratch the underside. It doesnt have to be exact as this is only a guide for where we're going to put our first blob of two pack adhesive.
Remove the vent, now put your new bolts through the fixing holes in the bonnet from the top, down over.

Next mix a little two pack adhesive and put a small blob - enough for the head of the bolt to squash into, it doesnt need to be any bigger at this stage - on each of the two marks that you made earlier on the back of your vent, do the vents one at a time due to the curing time of the adhesive.
Next carefully refit the vent to the bonnet being very careful of the adhesive on the back, at this point tape the vent down to stop it moving around as the adhesive is still quite pliable. With the vent in place, open bonnet and push the bolts gently up into the adhesive, twist them gently back and fort to seat them securely. Most two pack adhesives cure pretty quick - about 15 minutes depending on temperatureand quantity with full hardness in a couple of hours. At this point you have two choices, let the small blob cure fully or if your confident of your skills and steady hand, removed the vent very carefully after about 10 minutes making sure you dont move or misalign the bolts. If you misalign them at this stage your vents wont line up and will look crap. Once the vents are removed, mix up a bigger quantity of adhesive and apply around the head of the bolt to secure it fully. Dont refit the vent until the glue has cured completely or youll risk pulling the bolt out when you tighten the nuts.


Once fully cured you can fit your vents and secure them with the nuts and washers, take care when tightening the nuts and dont over tighten them.


The snorkel vent comes with fixings already fitted so is just a straight swap out.




Pretty straight forward job to do, should only take an hour to do depending on the speed that your glue cures and how brave you are. Id advise the final cure is left over night so as not to risk pulling the bolts out.


1994 JDM GT4 WRC
You have one of the sexiest GT-4s and now it has become even more sexier. biggrin.gif

Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
what is does the FG mean for the raiser blocks?

This post has been edited by 6gcnoob: Jan 1, 2010 - 3:50 PM
FG means the raiser blocks are made of fiberglass instead of carbon fiber.

Past -7A-FTE: Will never forget youPresent -3rd Gen3S-GTE: Swap in progressQUOTE (SinisterSinner @ Dec 19, 2009 - 10:52 AM)I dont want to even think of turbos, they blow up way too often...
how much shipped to 06331?
>
QUOTE (6gcnoob @ Jan 2, 2010 - 7:24 AM) *
>how much shipped to 06331?


FG USD$100 + Shipping
CF/Kevlar USD$160 + Shipping

shipping is about usd$35

Kamikaze eShop 神風 onFacebook
>
QUOTE (Driveby @ Jan 1, 2010 - 6:12 PM) *
>Thanks to Vincent I now have my CF bonnet vents smile.gif
I know a few people were worried that the rear vents had no fixings fitted and were dubious of using sticky tape / glue to secure them so heres a quick how to for a more oem fitting.
You will need;
Suitable long enough bolts with nuts and washers, a spanner or ratchet and socket combo to remove the old vents and secure the new ones.
A suitable two pack epoxy or glue combo. Id say it would have to be a two pack variety as they cure quicker and are generally much more secure than standard type glues. I used JB Quick Weld as I cant rate this stuff highly enough.

Remove the standard vents by loosening the nuts that secure them.


Next place the new vent onto the bonnet (yeah you call it a hood wink.gif) some tape may come in helpful to secure it as your going to mark the bottom of the vent for where we're going to secure the bolts.


With the vent in place, raise the bonnet, and through the oem fixing holes mark the underside of the new vent. The hole is quite small, I used a welding rod to scratch the underside. It doesnt have to be exact as this is only a guide for where we're going to put our first blob of two pack adhesive.
Remove the vent, now put your new bolts through the fixing holes in the bonnet from the top, down over.

Next mix a little two pack adhesive and put a small blob - enough for the head of the bolt to squash into, it doesnt need to be any bigger at this stage - on each of the two marks that you made earlier on the back of your vent, do the vents one at a time due to the curing time of the adhesive.
Next carefully refit the vent to the bonnet being very careful of the adhesive on the back, at this point tape the vent down to stop it moving around as the adhesive is still quite pliable. With the vent in place, open bonnet and push the bolts gently up into the adhesive, twist them gently back and fort to seat them securely. Most two pack adhesives cure pretty quick - about 15 minutes depending on temperatureand quantity with full hardness in a couple of hours. At this point you have two choices, let the small blob cure fully or if your confident of your skills and steady hand, removed the vent very carefully after about 10 minutes making sure you dont move or misalign the bolts. If you misalign them at this stage your vents wont line up and will look crap. Once the vents are removed, mix up a bigger quantity of adhesive and apply around the head of the bolt to secure it fully. Dont refit the vent until the glue has cured completely or youll risk pulling the bolt out when you tighten the nuts.


Once fully cured you can fit your vents and secure them with the nuts and washers, take care when tightening the nuts and dont over tighten them.


The snorkel vent comes with fixings already fitted so is just a straight swap out.




Pretty straight forward job to do, should only take an hour to do depending on the speed that your glue cures and how brave you are. Id advise the final cure is left over night so as not to risk pulling the bolts out.



very good job......and professional to fix up .. I need follow you. hehe
>
QUOTE (OOBE @ Dec 30, 2009 - 1:56 AM) *
>Eurou Raiser Blocks:

1) OOBE - CF
2) CelicaGTSboy23 - CF
3) Fate - Debating CF vs FG
4) smirnoff - FG
5) 6gcnoob - FG

Hood Vents:

1) OOBE - Black CF

Come on, guys...let's do this!