I found myself trying to find another simple yet very meaningful project for the celica when I came across an idea for a diy garage door opener that wires up to the batter while i was trying to open my damn garage door with the pos battery one in my car in 0 degree weather. I'll be following the guide of this DIY Garage Door Opener. I'll be sure to keep you all informed of how it all goes. I'm also going to throw a twist on the button that I think you'll all find very enjoyable . I'm still in the process of measuring things out and finding the right parts. I should be done with it in the next 2weeks -1month depending on when the parts get in and when I have time to work on it.

too complicated...

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...amp;hl=homelink

stealth is the way to go man. No welding required...

there's no welding required, just drilling and putting in new buttons, but I'm not doing this for the buttons like i said you're all going to like what I'm doing for the button. It requires no drilling and if it does work then I'm sure it will be copied by everyone on this site, which I have no problem with I just wanna be the test dummy and make the write up for it . You may even change it.

That looks great, can't wait. I have two bulky clickers on my visor. I've seen this done on an NC MX-5, it looked nice. For sure a good mod.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Dec 19, 2009 - 4:49 PM

Awesome. I'm definitely going to do this since I hate those ugly remotes on my visor.

Bought one of these today, my plan is to take out the cig lighter and replace it with this. I got the far left one with the blue ring.

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Those look nice, where did you come across these at?

Going by the image properties, I'm going to guess http://store.expressions-ltd.com, specifically http://store.expressions-ltd.com/servlet/-...on%2Cled/Detail

This post has been edited by Galcobar: Dec 20, 2009 - 8:39 PM

alright i need help, it works great, i mounted the thing next to my gauge cluster under the center console and also wired the wires up to the first button, the button on the actual transmitter works and if i connect the wires it works but for some reason after i connected the wires to the button i purchased with the led on it it only works when i turn the key to on. I mean i understand its only making a connection when i turn the car on because i have the power and ground wired to the cig lighter wires. But the switch I have wired up is whats making it do it so I'm at a loss. Anyone help? I think i just make need to get a new switch.

i can't follow your post at all.. i would be happy to help but its not making any sense to me at all... if its wired to the cig lighter... it won't work with the car off or acc

sorry let me re phrase, i bought a homelink garage door opener and mounted it inside my dash, but to access it outside of my dash i soldered wires to the to ends of a button on the circuit board on the homelink so that i may wire up an external button somewhere else. I purchased a button Here's the link to the button i bought, with only a + and - in and out where the wires would mount. Now i know it wont work with the car off since the cig lighter only works with the car on, but whats happening is when im wiring up those wires from the circuit board to the switch it automatically completes the circuit. The led illuminates, the switch is in the out or off position, so right when i complete the circuit the garage door opens and until i turn off the power and turn back on or remove a wire and reattach it, it doesn't work. Now I'm wondering can that led really pass enough current through it to cause the signal to go through. i talked to the company i bought it from and he said that it cant complete the circuit but im not entirely sure why it wouldn't anyone have any ideas to solve my dilema?

This post has been edited by freddy121389: Dec 31, 2009 - 4:04 AM

since you are running with the cig lighter, the make sure you have the dimmer controlon full, you are loosing power.

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how does this relate to my dilema? i completely took out my cig lighter

This post has been edited by freddy121389: Jan 1, 2010 - 5:30 PM

It sounds like you've wired the switch sensor on the board to the LED circuit in the button, as opposed to wiring it to the switch circuit in the button.

However, that's based upon my having to interpret your post as your sentence structure and grammar make (or lack thereof) makes for an unclear post.

If you're saying the button you purchased has only the one circuit, then that makes sense if it's an interrupt -- as in pressing the button interrupts the circuit. Rather like the button on your car doors, whereby closing the door cuts off the power to the interior lights.

As for njccmd2002's post, he's pointing out that the power you're drawing off the cigarette lighter wiring is adjusted by the dimmer switch. It's the power to the wiring that is affected, which is what you've accessed.

im trying to be as clear as i can, i even sent a link to the actual button im using to be more precise. I soldered in 2 wires into the two sides of one of the buttons for the homelink so that i may wire an external button else ware. so the button i purchased only has 2 connectors in the back for 2 wires + and -. When i have it hooked up the led comes on and when i push it in the led turns off. But no matter what the circuit stays closed causing the garage to open immediately once i turn my car on. And why is the cig lighter controlled by the dimmer i really dont understand, i keep it on full all the time but what reason is there to make the cigarette lighters power to dim?

sorry got confused, tought it wass the cigarrette light and not the lighter, which is not dimmed

the button you installed has an LED? right? the led is drawing the power and not making the unit work. try a button with no led.

but i want the led one because it looks awesome, he's sending me a new one where the led and button are separate so im pretty sure the led was closing it, now ill wire up the cig light to the led light, so it only comes on at night.

Try detaching the button, and test what happens when you simply cross the leads off the HomeLink switch.

the garage door opens when i do that

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And does it go down when you disconnect them, or do you need to send the signal again to close it? If the latter, that would indicate the button is meant to be an interrupt switch, while you need a button which creates continuity when pressed.

it is a interrupt button, hes getting the right one sent to him... problem solved

if theres only one lead in and out, its impossible for it to be a momentary switch...

you're right in thinking that the LED will not create enough current ON ITS OWN to work the garage door... but the LED is a diode, not a resistor, which means the current will still flow through it to the Homelink, no matter how much current is pulled for the homelink, it will still work with that type of switch

so pitt are you saying the led can cause the switch to activate or no? or are you saying that it will work for the way that i want it to work(push button the garage door opens)

so it's finally done, homelink is installed with the replacement button he sent me, turns out the led was actually carrying enough current to trigger the button, so he sent me a new button with the led leads and switch leads separate. I wired the 12v source from the cig lighter to the homelink and then took the 12v source from the cig lighter ring and used that to power the led. So now it only works when the car is on and the led ring only turns on when the lights are on. It looks amazing I'll post up picks later.

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great! just to clarify... it has NOTHING to do with the LED - why the old switch didn't work

it was the wrong kind of switch - it was closed with the button pushed out and open when the button was pushed in - it was an interrupt style switch - the button stops the voltage rather than starting it - you wanted the opposite - the switch you have now is what you were looking for

no because the this new one did the exact same thing until i unsoldered the two positive and negative leads apart. this was the exact same switch just he left the back cap off for me so i could unsolder the 4 leads apart if i needed to.

here's a video of how it works and what it looks like
6gc homelink


This post has been edited by freddy121389: Jan 10, 2010 - 8:33 PM