Here are the pics from the install...

I decided to remove just the turbo and not the entire exhaust manifold, to help avoid any issues with stripped exhaust studs.
I also had a brand new Hose from Hell that has been sitting in my house for months waiting for this day.... and wouldn't you know it, I didn't think of bringing it with me to my friends house where the installation took place. oh well.

Removing the ct26...















Here is an interesting picture of the effects of washer fluid injection over a period of time. the turbo on the left is the new ct20b and the turbo on the right is my ct26. You can clearly see a white precipitate that has formed as a by product of mixing washer fluid into the combustion chamber.
It also looks like there is a bit of an uneven distribution of the washer fluid as cylinders 1 and 2 have a lot more of the white percipitate than cyl 3 and 4.








the ct20b installed...



Sam buttoning a few things up...



car finished as if nothing ever happened...

I also decided to take this time to install an st205 crash bar and frame brackets, and build a new mount for the intercooler.

Here is the modified gt crash bar with the intercooler bracket I originally made..




Sam had some steel laying around, so we decided to make a new intercooler mount of it of.



The intercooler basically sits ontop of these 3 brackets that bolt to the front of the car. I plan to paint them black in the future.

congrats Art

How's the CT20 feel compared to the CT26?

very nice.

Nice!

Why'd you decide to go CT20?

at least your current HFH looks to be in decent shape, art.

looking good man, ya think the white residue is possibly from any detergents or anything that may be in the WW fluid?
when i pull the car apart in a few months, ill take a few pics of mine as well for a comparison

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it could be just a byproduct of the methanol burning or perhaps detergents. I took chemistry last year and a white precipitate is very common when certain chemicals burn, just not sure whats causing it.

Only thing thats interesting is that the port that comes from cyl 1-2 is a lot whiter than the port from cyl 3-4.

I wonder what kind of effect that white residue has on o2 sensors. Why dont you try running a mix of straight methanol with water and see if that gives the same effect?

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I have been running the injection for years, and never had any issues with my o2 sensors. So its safe to say its fine for that.
Probably not going to remove the turbo again just to check a different mixture.
There is really nothing wrong with the white residue, just something that happens.

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My initial impressions weren't that great after my first ride, however after playing around with my EBC and adjusting the gain for this turbo's waste gate along with turning up the boost... here is what i think...

After the very first start up of the car with the new turbo, I could notice this turbo flows a lot better and spools faster. Even by reving the car while its stationary, I could feel that the engine reved up faster and the bov was pushing out more air.

You really need to make sure you have a boost controller (as most of us do except for joe!!!). Around 15psi on up is really where you will see the most benefits from the ct20b.

The ct20b spools a lot faster than the ct26. Even just daily driving at part throttle you can tell the whole car has more power and is more fun to drive.

The ct26 has a very limited power band. You make all of your power from 4k-5k and then everything starts to drop off, where as the ct20b continues to keep pulling harder and harder the longer you stay in it...like a car should.

Over all, I have to admit that the car is pretty quick. It really surprised me after I dialed in the boost controller and was driving home one night. The car pulled really hard and torque steer was more noticeable (in a good/fun way!). If I had to guess based off my but dyno, Id say the car is at around 270hp and has plenty of fuel to make more power, but might be octane limited without alcohol injection.

Bottom line is, if you have a 2nd gen swap. Upgrade to this. Its well worth it.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jan 9, 2010 - 12:46 PM

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Agreed.

CT20B is the BEST turbo for a GEN2 still on the stock ECU/injectors.

nice my man im glad your enjoying it...im looking forward to putting it on my car after we take it to the dyno and pump out some numbers....and also get my car in order as well.....crash bar looks great too...over all, for an old head., id say not bad, little long on the install though...hahah

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easy to say for a guy who didn't come by and help!

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Well, I have to say I'm sold now. I have been holding back on the ct20b cause I wasn't sure if it its all that people make it to be. But with your review, I now believe! Part of the hold back also is cost b/c I have been thinking maybe getting the 3rd gen might be a better deal if one can get it under$ 2k. But it hard to just get rid of my 2nd gen that is running so superb, except for the frequent clutch breakdowns. I guess now I have some serious thinking to do.
Thanks for your impressions. I have been waiting for this.

Eli, you should just go with competition clutch. They have worked wonders for me. At-least you haven't snapped any axles.

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that is a terrible idea... completely terrible

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Hey Will,
You know I have. I got one from Doc rated at 300lbs of torque and that broke into pieces after like 6months. then I went clutchmaster and the spring came loose on that one. Now I just installed ACT 6puck in a little over month ago. Praying this one lasts. I have never had this much clutch problem until I swapped. As a matter of fact, all my cars since 1994 have been manuals and I have never had any clutch break downs. I have changed driving habits going easy on it but to no avail. I'm beginning to think the car is making more than the clutches are rated for? . I have been thinking going 153 tranny and clutch, but its just too much hassle with the axles thingy and having to go thru all that every time axle goes out.
Anyway, thanks for the advice though.
I will be in MN in march (second week) on vacation maybe we can set up some meet?
Eli

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Whats up? I'm sensing bad experience with them?

thought Id share my experiences, im running around 18,5psi on my CT20b, and its much better than the st185 I´ve driven couple times, as it has the CT26..

I thought I´d ask, how much torque does the standard clutch handle? Guess I should be buying new clutch before more power goodies..

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So the white residue is from a mixture of the liquids? Or is it fuel deposits? I am just asking, I wouldn't know.


Also, I wanted to ask if you or anyone else happens to know what the difference is between the CT20b and CT26? Because people are telling me after switching to CT20, it pulls so much harder and it allows them to boost at higher psi. Is it just cheaper to buy a CT20 and run with that? Or is it actually better? Because I see what kind of HP upping the trim on a CT26 to 47,50,56 and 60-1 and it looks pretty good, especially for just driving on the street (way better than that actually). Because I don't know much about turbos, but by comparison, the housing appears a bit of the same. I ask because the only turbo car I have right now is my MR2 and it has the CT26. I haven't had a chance to see what the Japanese ones have, however I noticed that on a stock vs stock test, they are faster than the Supra RZ MKIV in the 1/4 mile test. I thought the Supra uses the CT20 as well. So I just wanted to be schooled a bit.

IIRC ct26 = steel components ct20b = ceramic components

ceramic is lighter then steel hense quicker spool.

CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG PLEASE

edit: looks real good art, My question is more a value driven question. Ct27 upgrade or the Ct20b? i have a basic idea of $$$ for both

This post has been edited by devilsden97: Jan 13, 2010 - 11:44 AM

the quicker spool is because of better / improved / more modern desing of the 20b, think about it as 1st 2nd and 3rd gen 3s, they also revised the turbo and improved its efficiency, it has nothing to do with being ceramic or steel, there are Steel 20b around as well aand they spool just as quick as the ceramic ones.

Seems I have a pretty bad exhaust leak. Luckily it seems to be coming from one of the front turbo nuts not being on tight enough. Ordered new nuts as the old ones are starting to strip and going to buy a proper 6point wrench to try to fix it up. I just hope I dont need a new turbo gasket as they go for about 80bucks (total ripoff).

Nice job Lagos, I new ct20b is much more fun to drive then olddog26; been there and done that;) Funny thing I remember from old days that I could barely catch up to beams mr2 with my stock 2nd gen. Cheers

Nice work lagos