So im not sure where this wire goes, but its the smallest one on the (pos.) battery. When I replaced my engine the wire got cut too short and now I have to make a small extension on the wire (only about 5") But and I am pretty sure this is why it keeps melting but I need some opinions,
I keep using a 12 gauge (have used auto, and home electric wire both melted). But I am thinking the wire that is stock is a 10 gauge, that part never melts only the small extension will melt the casing, or any amount ot electrical tape right off of it. It is in the engine bay so it may get hot i guess but I even put some split loom on it and it melts on the inside.
Is this because I am using too small of a wire?
Thanks to anyone who can help me confirm my problem!-

This post has been edited by mgnt232: Mar 9, 2010 - 6:30 PM

It's best to keep the gauge consistent. If the stock battery line is 10 gauge, use a 10 gauge - my alternator went and toasted my ground wire, almost started a fire in my engine bay a few weeks ago - $600 repair, had to pull my entire engine harness out and whatnot.

In any case, don't use smaller gauge wire for sure - your battery is putting out massive voltage/amps and will toast anything of improper size.

Your connection is only as good as it's weakest link.

Also, ensure your positive battery terminal is tight.

Put wire loom around it.

>

You mean the wire that goes from the battery to the starter? You cant use 12gauge there or any type of home electric wire. That is something like a 6 gauge wire. You can buy a new one from a car parts store in the battery section.

Using 12gauge there is a great way to start a car fire.

This post has been edited by lagos: Mar 18, 2010 - 11:08 AM

You need to use the same guage wire, tin the wires with solder. Put a crimp connector, and a piece of high heat, oil resistant, heat shrink. Solder the 2 together, crimp the connector and heat the heatshrink.

Your issue is a bad connection and incorrect wire size. Its arching from the bad connection and melting away the jacket thus making the connection even worse.

Just because a wire is 12 guage doesn't mean it can handle the current put through it. It needs to match the exsisting wires specifications. Doing it any other way is recipe for a insurance claim on a burnt down car.

Use a connector like this, you might need to purchase the crimping tool



Electrical transfer is all about surface area.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Mar 18, 2010 - 12:37 PM

I would trace the wire see where it goes and check the shething hasn't crack and the wire is touching the body work. is it possible it got nicked/pinched or trapped when the engine was changed?

It sound like the wire making a circuit somewhere in your car and the extension piece you are putting in is becoming the fuse so to speak and burning out.

I also agree with what the others have said about gauge's of wire.

Hope you get it sorted buddy