the website lists slotted rotors as a $100 option on their kits. not really all that bad. I'd go slotted over drilled whenever available.

Wondering if they'll clear the tC wheels, but I'm sure they would, but if I decide to go the 5x114 route, i'll end up having to go with their Camry kit.

*edit* they don't make a BBK for that generation camry... demmit...

This post has been edited by NgoFcukinWay: Dec 25, 2017 - 1:05 AM

Puretone has this BBK on his ST184 with tC wheels. I don’t know how the 5th gens compared to the 6th gen in terms of offset and clearance but I don’t believe he has spacers on his car. I have 15 mm spacers, so I’m effectively 17x7 +30. I was concerned that I would need to get 20 mm spacers to clear these brakes but I have plenty of clearance. I think you should have clearance on your current setup, but I think anything less than +35 may have issues.

im glad the rims cleared the bbk. Sometimes I still miss them....

i remember reading the body shop issues you had, it was there for 3 months if i recall.

mines been there for slightly over 6 months. and before then 7 months tearing down the car for paint. anyway this thread isnt for discussion about my celica...

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They fit the Celica so well. I was always jealous when you owned them. There was no way I could pass them up. I look for spares from time to time.


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Ours was four months at the body shop, which felt like forever. We got lucky that it was so quick since most body shops don’t like full paint jobs. Surely yours is getting close by now if it’s been there for that long.

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Indeed. I didn't even need to touch the FUEL PUMP in order to fit this kit.

My kit from Revolution Brake: http://store.revolutionbrake.com/14-0016.html
Wheels are OEM Gen 1 Scion TC
No spacers, neither front nor rear.
Stainless steel braided brake lines front & rear.
I have no front/rear brake bias issues at all, keep in mind a 1992 GT Convertible weight distribution is significantly different from a Liftback/Coupe. Rear rotors are some StopTech-sourced units with EBC pads
As for tyres, I'll have to get back to you guys on that one with the *exact* size specs...I've been separated from my BEAMSica for a while & I lacked the foresight to have written those numbers down correctly.
I have NO real rubbing issues with the tyres. I did do a 3-ish mm fender stretch ages ago using the universally accepted ghetto-tech method. I've had a scrape once or twice, but under extreme conditions...left or right front wheel at full suspension compression, nose-down on an angled descent. Plastic inner wheel-well cover got it's decade worth of grime somewhat cleaned off. A benefit in my book. This is with Eibach springs and a Kayaba/KYB shock absorber setup of my own hacked-up design...the combo gives the same usual 1+ inch or whatever drop in suspension.

The only other "mod" I made to my setup was to replace the wheel studs. They had been there since the car left the factory in 1991 and I felt my girl was due some proper wheel/hub jewelry. ARP longer wheel studs (the knurl is the same as a Mitsubishi EVO8 or something) and Mishimoto aluminium lug nuts. I would not be surprised if this stud/lug combo saves about 1 pound per wheel, which is A Good Thing.

time to tackle Pike's peak again. they look great!

who sells the replacement rotors, are they available?

Of course. The rotor is not made specific to our cars. I believe it’s from a BMW, and been drilled to 5x100. An adapter ring was provided for the hub. There was a part number on the rotor that I didn’t bother to write down, but I intend to next time the wheels are off. I can buy direct replacement rotors from Revolution Brake or find the correct BMW rotor and have it redrilled.

ok then. Sadly i bought a tool to redrill the supra rotors for our cars, its a shame i cannot find a good caliper to use it with....

Specs on those rotors?

i believe they are non turbo...

Looks like the Revolution Brake rotors are 27 mm taller and 2 mm thinner, so these calipers aren’t a match for the Supra rotors. Maybe next weekend I’ll pull a wheel off so I can get a specific part number for my rotors to get specs. Revolution Brake lists the rotors as 323mm x 30mm, without listing any other dimensions. Calipers are 4.5 lbs, and I’d like to weigh my stock calipers for comparison.

if only tigawoods posts real specs on his "supra rotors"

im hopefully getting new rotors made to match the spec of my current ones. Ill have measurements soon

Nice Daniel! I like the looks of them

I'm not going to say that I told you so, but I distinctly remember making an anecdotal comment to a similar effect....

Noberto:

You should look into the LS430 calipers....

wink wink

Does Brigette work in an OR? The tape pictured in some of the previous photos is autoclave safe and it turns when it's heated to let you know when what it's wrapping has been sterilized (at least that's what it looks like).

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Thanks! They definitely fill the wheel much better than the stock brakes. They make the tears look nonexistent. The Hawk definitely weren’t much of an upgrade for a carefully street driven car, that’s for sure. Of course, I’ve had plenty of time to swap them out for something else and I still kept them.


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Good observation. She’s in banking, but I work with OR’s. Every now and then I’ll take some of the wrapping with me rather than throwing it away. It’s good to have around the garage.

Once again, just posting to keep track of things, not because any real progress was made. The tach adapter has always annoyed me but I’ve gotten so used to it twitching that I barely even notice it anymore. However, I’ve decuded it’s time for the tach adapter to go in the trash and do the 10k ohm resistor. Since there’s a new Redtop going in soon, I’ll have a chance to clean up some wiring. It will be nice to have a factory setup again and get rid of this box and some wiring.

LED's are nice and bright btw. Anything special?

The camera makes them look a little brighter than they really are. I don’t think I could tolerate them if they were as bright in real life as they seem. They are Diode Dynamics LED’s. I’ve tried several other brands that all failed but the Diode Dynamics bulbs have been going for several years with no issues. I sanded the backs of the gauges to get rid of the green tint as well.

agreed. the camera and longer exposure will make it look that much brighter but it isn't. that's how i shot mine. hahaha

but I might have to get some of those from diode dynamic. I'm still going through my cheapo 20 pack I bought from ebay and now I see why they come in 20s. I have to change out at least one every year and it's getting annoying. my tach is flickering right now and will probably give me a seizure while driving. the rest are fine so it's a hit and miss with these.

I tried eBay LED’s, Superbrightled’s, vled’s, the list goes on. They only ever lasted a couple of months to a year. Finally spent the money to try Diode Dynamics back in like 2013 and not a single one has failed yet. I get a slight flicker out of the type 74 in my key ring light on occasion but it’s not bad and doesn’t happen often.

yea, I've tried superbrightleds as well and they did last almost a year i believe.
I put some in the license plate lights on the trix and it's a party back there some nights. I'm sure drivers following me think I'm some idiot ricer who put a strobe light in the back. lol

I will need to get a good number from diode dynamic and do a full replacement all my cars. given the gauges aren't too hard to get to in the 6th gen but when I do my 1st gen I do not want to go back into it and replace ONE bulb. you have to take most the dash apart to get to them. lol

I've surprisingly have had good luck with eBay/Amazon stuff, though I had one set that burnt up within a minute of use as they got the resistor value way off as it was 10% of what it should've been. Of course I got refunded real fast after sending pictures and explaining how they got the resistor value wrong. Those were single LED chip "bulbs" and I ended up replacing them with old school single 12V(kind that look like tic-tacs) and they worked great with no resistors. It's really hit and miss, but if you know what to look for it can help somewhat. For what it's worth my brother ponied up for Sylvania ZEVO bulbs for his tag lights after having everything else he tried flicker, and sometimes burn up in smoldering ash, and they've been going strong for a year or two now. I hear the Philips LED are also good. I think depending on the severity of failure and how long they stay on the more you should spend, of course in a lot of instances halogen works just as good or better still. The only reason I bothered with LED myself was to go all amber lighting so I wouldn't go blind at night turning on a light or get a headache staring at my red instrumentation.

This post has been edited by Box: Feb 7, 2018 - 2:12 PM

Ya for updates!

Good updates coming so far. I really thought about buying the BBK when it was for sale but couldn't justify the needs for it just yet.

bump?! lol.... do people even bump anymore? is it hip? is it cool?

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That's so 2011!

bump