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Jake and Sam were visiting them but for all we know, Brigette killed him and called them out to buy parts off the BEAMS so that may not even be him responding.

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F*CK you're right! Damn it.

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Fixed that for you.

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nope, i fixed it!!!!!

Dan,
do you feel like the superstrut "darts" when you get it past a certain point in a corner? Or does it just corner well?

I ask because if I make a right hander in mine it feels ok, almost normal. But if I make a left hander, christ almighty hold on. On a track it would have darted down to the inside on the apron.

Inherently I know that there's a joint issue somewhere in the superstrut, been too lazy to actually diagnose it and change parts, but wondering if the right hander or the left hander is the problem after re reading some of the last years posts.

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You for sure have one or more worn parts and likely a dynamic alignment problem because of it.

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Could be a loose bushing bolt. When you turn, the outside wheel takes the load and its enough to shift a loose joint. Does the superstrut have crush tubes and are yours installed?

This post has been edited by PizzaGuy01: May 28, 2020 - 7:36 AM

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When I bolted the halfcut subframe in, it is in exactly that same condition with exception to the fact I added the struts that were missing. So its a definite maybe.

Pretty sure all the bolts are tight. I have shop down the road that always has skylines, miatas etc out front. Probably just take it there so he can put it on the lift with all my spare SS parts, see if they can make something work.

Let’s see how this works out...

Y'all 6GC people need to quit stealing my damn 7th gen parts! Wheels, seats, now COMPUTERS!

This post has been edited by Bitter: Nov 24, 2020 - 6:48 PM

should try the 2zz next. maybe you'll get a BEAMS with lift.

This is funny.

I think some of ya'll just need to go out and buy a damn 7th gen...

The goal here is passing emissions. Colorado emissions are pretty strict and older cars are put on a rolling road for an exhaust sniff test. Getting most older cars to pass isn’t an issue as long as it has been reasonably maintained but in the case of a swapped car with no EGR and a cheap Magnaflow two gas high flow cat, there’s no way it will pass. Then 2020 happens and people are keeping their distance from each other and trying to limit contact, to which Colorado emissions stations have responded by not doing sniff tests and instead only checking for OBDII compliance. When I was initially doing my swap I came across a thread from Doug Copeland where he learned that a 1ZZ ECU will actually run a Redtop. I looked this thread back up and found that sure enough, a 1ZZ ECU runs the e fine surprisingly well. There are 3 differences in the wiring, one of which is the W pin. If I can get this working, then I can move this car right through emissions.

Upon initial test, I found that the 1ZZ ECU does in fact get the engine running, although the CEL doesn’t work.



Comparing pinouts with some help from Jordan, I moved the W pin on my harness from E2, pin 6 to pin 15. This got the light working perfectly but still can’t connect my OBDII scanner.





Currently doing some research to see what it will take to get the OBD scanner to connect. It may be easy to or could be a giant nightmare and not worthwhile.



The acute observer will notice that the ST205 had Colorado plates where the BEAMS remains registered in Indiana, if this gives you any idea of the issues I face with Colorado emissions with a swapped car.

You could always move somewhere else, just saying.

If there is a 5000-mile exempt rule like there is in PA (where my car is reg'd)

just get a digital dash like I have and make the ODO whatever you want it to be and be exempt for lyfe

or move to Texas and pay someone $80 to pass it unless it's at least 25 years old. Then it's just $12.

This post has been edited by NgoFcukinWay: Nov 27, 2020 - 1:53 AM

or move to Wisconsin and not have to worry about any of that emissions crap.

Or move back to Indiana and come out to some meets more often.

IT WORKS!



I haven’t passed emissions yet. Still have to drive it around and get at least two of the four readiness monitors complete, then I can push it through emissions. But in the meantime, I have an OBDII compliant BEAMS.

I used to have that same scan tool...until I forgot it on the roof of my Celica once.

Still find it interesting a 1zz ECU will run a Beams. Would be cool to find out the tuning differences & all that other engineering BS.

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I'm not that surprised, they're close in displacement, use almost the same sensors (biggest difference would be MAF scaling I suppose since different type of MAF but clearly similar output), have similarly sized injectors, use probably the same TPS sweep, same type of knock sensor, same coolant sensor range, etc. Toyota does not change a lot and it shows. Also the VVT system operates exactly the same. All in all I'd be more surprised if it didn't work!

Now, what remains to be seen is if he can swap in a 1ZZ Celica MAF and that gets it closer to running 100% or if theres some other differences and will it run a 1ZZ standalone like a Hydra EMS with full tuning to get the most out of the Beams? I know a highly tuned and lightly built 1ZZ can hit +160whp on the dyno with a couple people going full out due to race class hitting 180+. I imagine a Beams with a good tune should have no problem doing between 200 and 220WHP and even more than that with some aggressive cams and the right VVT tuning. Just not in Denver

mhmmm.... i heard a 3sge greytop manifold and 50 state cat will pass emissions for obd1 in california. but i have a 99 so i still think this wont do me any good

so any update on this? itd be nice to check engine status for fuel trim, misfire counts, maf metering. but i guess at that rate the benefits of a standalone ecu come into play....... is it possible for dual beams vvti altezza motor to get all the data info without much messing around?

Well?

Sold it.

No, the old Celica is still around. I had to replace the Optima battery with an Interstate battery and that’s about it. The emissions thing isn’t going to work out unless I make some changes like adding a downstream O2 sensor... I’ll just replace the cat and be done. But I have driven the car around on the 1ZZ ECU and I can confirm that it is 100% functional with a slight loss of power, which is the groundwork for finding out if we can run a 1ZZ standalone.

Do both, cat and downstream sensor and then you can easily put the 1ZZ ECU in whenever you need to do emissions just about anywhere except maybe california.