Wow thanks for that link. That'll help for sure.

Yea no problem man.
I just found it myself actually. ordered from them on tuesday:)
Hopefully I can tackle the task of installing them myself.
The most work i've ever done on my car was lowering it.

Well the car is basically ready for the strut and the bushings to be installed, just have to remove the control arms, and wait for the parts to get here.
Unfortunately, Canada post is on strike and only deliver a couple of days of the week ATM, so hopefully it doesn't take too long for the bushings to get here..

We're almost half way through the summer and you haven't driven your car yet? ouch. It seems like there's always one problem after another. Well goodluck with the repairs. Hope you get the car back on the road asap.

Yea its been a nightmare.
Just one thing after another, and its all been out of my control.
Shouldn't be a problem gettin it done, as long as nothing else comes up once its done..

when its happen to me whit my old 5gc 1991, (paid 300 buck) i didnt want to spend money , so i fix it for 0$ in 10 minute, putting whit hammer some little nail inside around the bushing, and cut some rubber in circlev( buy strap rubber and cut it) and put it on the back of the bushing and put back the bolt whit some washer to push the rubber , it will affect the movement if you tightened too much, but

pro- its work, no shaking no more

cons- u lose comfort and stability, since its metal to metal, and no more bushing
but u feel more the road from the rear, not a big difference for normal driving,
u have keep the wheel centered to keep alignement- tough (u can change the alignement later whit some more pin inside the bushing
but i wont suggest to do that,

but for someone who dont have money or want to fix it now, it can help
that least on my old celica till she died

This post has been edited by Needles: Jun 16, 2011 - 7:15 AM

You want me to put nails in my bushings?
No thanks.
I don't want to ghetto rig my car like yours..

A buddy came over tonight to give me a hand.
On the driver side we got every bolt out for the lower control arm, except we ran into the endlink dilema.
Could not get the end link off, so we moved to the passender side.
On the passenger side, there was no problems with the endlink, except the bolt on the control arm that threads into the sub frame (19mm), came out about an inch and will not come out any farther by turning it with a wrench.
It started to rain, and I don't have a garage to work in so we had to call it quits.

With the endlink, I tried using the allen key method and a wrench, and the allen key started to slop so I left it so it didn't strip.
We then tried to hold it with a vice grip and turn it with a socket/wrench, and it didn't budge.
I want to avoid having to cut the endlink at all costs, cause I can't afford new endlinks right now.
If I do have to cut it, is it a harm to drive the car without the front sway bar hooked up for a while till the endlinks came in the mail?

Not sure what to do with the last control arm bolt, has anyone else ran into this problem while removing their lower control arms?

it's ok to drive without the front sway bar hooked up but you will have to drive slowly through turns and avoid large bumps while avoiding sudden movement with the steering wheel to avoid body roll. a temporary solution would be to get some wire and loop it through the sway bar and control arm several times, but you'd still need to buy a pair of links asap if you do.

Yea, I'd just be thinking about driving it like that while waiting for endlinks to get here. and I twould only be on the driver side, because we managed to get the passenger side off.
I'm still gunna give it another shot today later on after the car show.

Quick update.
Thanks to Batmans advice, I was able to remove the control arm from the passenger side, and got one of the bushings out.
Now I just gotta torch what's left of the bushings, and then wait for the new bushings to arrive.
And figure out how to save my endlink on the driver side.

good job man.

Woooo!!
While I went to get a torch to remove the remainder of the bushings from the passenger side control arm, somehow my dad got the driver side endlink without cutting it.
So last night I finished everything I could do; I removed the driver side control arm, and forced the bushings out using a drill, hammer, and a propane torch.
Just have to wait for the bushings to get here and then I can finish the job off.
I just wish Canada Post wasn't on strike right now..

Does anyone know if the control arms will be just as difficult to get back into the car as they were to remove?

They will be harder. Your best bet is to bring it to a shop with a press and have them press them in. If you have a shop like Advance Auto Parts, we have a loaner tool program and you can try using the rental press... but idk if it'll work.

Im talking about gettin the control arms mounted into the car, not the bushings into the control arm.
I'm already expecting to have some problems getting the bushings into the arms, but Ill give it a shot myself.

make sure you get the metal ring out of the arm bushing holes. Use a dremal or something to cut just the ring, then use a chisel and hammer to pop it out. Getting the bushings in is easy, use a vise and don't be shy on the lube.
Getting the arm back in is 100% easier then taking it out.

Do you mean a metal ring that would sit on the outside of the bushings, but the inside of the control arm(hole for the bushings)?
Me and my dad were looking at it, and I couldn't figure out if there was a ring in there that had to be removed or not.

EDIT

Just took a look at it and I do have to remove that ring.
Is a dremel strong enough? or could I use something like a wire wheel on a drill?

Do I have to worry about the inside of the control arm getting scratched/marked up from removing that ring?
And is this ring only on the larger diameter bushing that mounts to the chasis?
The smaller diameter one did not require a torch, i was able to just pound that one out with a hammer

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Jun 21, 2011 - 7:46 PM

both rings should came out (the small with the bushing as you know), just take the ring out of the big hole, don't worry.
I used a sawz-all but I was careful, I wouldn't reccomend using one because you can damage the bushing hole.
Just get the ring out, the bushing fits better without.

Do you think a hammer and large flat head screw driver would get it out?
Without causing damage to the big hole

so have you fixed it up yet? hopefully you'll be able to drive it soon!!

Not yet, because Canada post just felt they had to go on strike as my parts were in the mail.
My car is sitting on jack stands with a missing strut and no control arms.
Hopefully they will be here soon.
Then I can get them on, and allignment done and FINALLY get it going again.
Can't believe I ahve only driven it once in the past 6 months,

they're back to work today!!! hopefully you get your parts soon.

haha yea I've been watching it like a hawk lately, but apparently it may take up to a week to clear the back log, but I'll keep my fingers crossed

It's going to be like christmas when it comes! Good luck!

You sure got that right!
And thanks

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Jun 28, 2011 - 8:10 PM

update ?

Haha, just a little ahead of me.
Well after a **** load of frustration and waiting, its FINALLY driveable.
The lowere control arm bolts were stripped so I just order some new botls from toyota and they worked fine.
So I got it all together last night and it rode good.

However i am still getting a clunk sound similar to blown struts coming from the rear, even though I changed the mounts.
This is what I replaced: http://cgi.ebay.ca/KYB-Rear-Strut-Mount-/3...=item5ae1a288e2 in the front and the rear, along with all 4 struts.

I'm thinking maybe there are some other componants of the mount that should have been replaced as well?
Either than that the car runs pretty good, and i'm pretty satisfied I finally ahve it done, I thought this time was never going to come haha.

Are the KYB's cartridge type? Did you get struts or the shock insert? If it's the insert, make sure the holding device is tightly secured. Sometimes the nut on top (or bottom like in my Koni case) is coming lose and makes a horrible sound.

>
I got the full struts.
So All I had to do is take my old ones out and put the new ones in, not just cartriges.

Washed the car up quick today, and snapped a couple pics with my sisters crappy point and shoot.
Didn't really know what I was doing so I just threw it on auto haha.
Some are pretty dark, put osme turned out pretty good IMO.










Car is in need of a good wash/clay bar/wax, which I might get around to this weekend depending on the weather.
Any tips/opinions welcome.