My car clicks a bit when I turn, and the CV boots feel rather shot. I did some searching for the axels on Autozone and they appear to run about $80 each after I return my old ones. Anything bad about going for rebuilt ones?

I found a guide on here for replacing the left on, but I didn't bookmark it, and the search appears to be extra pokey. Even aside from that, how do you replace the axel on the drivers side?


Just to double check, clicking does equal the axels/joints right? I don't feel like tearing apart my car this weekend only to find I was incorrect.

Thanks!

That does equal axles/joints..... meaning full axle, cv joint or ball mount. I had this issue where I changed out my whole axle and it ended up being my ball mount. Most of the time it will just end up being the cv joint though. Rebuilt ones, they are fine imo just make sure they come with some sort of warranty. There are actually a few threads about replacing axles on here and yeah, the search button is tricky if ya don't use it just right.

To change out the axles there is a few ways of getting them out, it's not easy. I got em almost out then threw a ball joint remover(looks like a tuning fork) in between the axle and the tranny/engine on each side and just pryed and hammered it in there to pop em loose. Its also good to just go ahead and change out that tranny seal if you are taking out the side that goes into the tranny. Also to remember there is proper lube. Other than that, there will be others that will chime in guaranteed. Other than that, keep searchin.

Found:
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=67291

But still nothing for the passenger side.

There is another way without using the ball joint remover. If you look at the lower control arm, there are 2 bolts and a nut that attach the steering knuckle to it. They are directly connected to the lower ball joint. If you remove these, you will be able to move the knuckle enough to get the axle out of the hub.

From there, you have to unbolt the axle carrier (pass. side rear of the engine), then you can pull the axle out.

Make sure that you drain the tranny fluid before pulling the axle out otherwise you can expect a gear oil shower.

Alright, I started late today, and have a few questions for when I pick up tomorrow morning(hopefully someone on here is a night owl!).

I got the driver side axel out of the wheel bearing fine, but not so much the passenger side. I pulled the rotors off on both sides, and the entire lugnut thing came with the passenger side as well, exposing some of the inner ball bearings. Naturally, I'm sure this is sort of something to worry about. There's the axel side of the bearing, and then the wheel side. Should I relube both of these?(And if so, what kind?), or pop them both back in and not worry about it?


Also, I'm a little unclear on how to get the passenger axel out. There appears to be some sort of extra bearing halfway between the wheel and the transmission, and the axel budges a lot less than the driver's side. Any thoughts?

I'm also still a little unclear of where to stick a pry tool and pry them out. I don't want to damage anything major, though I am replacing both sides of the transmission seals. It's my understanding that there's another sort of gasket I don't want to break right between where the axels meet the transmission.


Hopefully one of you will have some answers for me. I'd really like to get back on the road tomorrow!

Thanks!

Well to answer your first question, Celicas have sealed bearings and I would only lube them if they were dry, which they shouldn't be(use ultrahigh pressure) and only a light glaze of it. I usually try not to separate sealed bearings unless I'm going to replace them... you will prob be ok but make sure no dirt, metal shavings or anything find its way inside.

Why did you take the rotors/hubs off??? All you have to do is take off the big nut and then remove the bolts under the lower ball joint where it attaches to the lower control arm. Then the axle will slide right out if you tilt the assembly upwards.

For the passenger axle you have to remove the bearing carrier that attaches to the frame. Then the whole thing pops out of the transmission you usually replace that bearing as well with the axle.

To pry axles out of the transmission.... I usually try to pop them out by tugging on the whole axle assembly before I pry anything, but if that doesn't work I get 2 pry bars up in between the actual CV joint and the transmission. I use 2 if possible so it's less likely to damage the transmission casing.

TIP! Before you install the axles make sure they move smoothly by gently rotaing them through their range of motion by hand... if they feel crunchy then be forewarned, might be bad rebuilds which will make a racket and possibly break way too soon. I've often had this trouble with rebuilds, much less often with new ones.

Good luck!

BTW I might be doing a timing belt on my celica soon would anyone be interested in an instructional video on the subject?

This post has been edited by Jamchell: Jun 20, 2010 - 6:01 AM

Ugh. More problems here. I got the drivers side put together, however I can't open up the caliper(the reason I took the rotors off is to get them turned and to use the strut method instead of undoing the tie rod) to save my life. I've even tried bleeding it some to absolutely no avail.

Second, started on the other side, and it pulled right out, however, the bearing bracket won't come off. The bearing is on the new axel I got, but not the bracket that it fits into. Thoughts? Do I need to get this bracket or something? If so, how the heck do I fit it on if I can't get the other bracket off?

Thanks!

PS. Yeah, I think a timing belt guide would be good. I've done mine a few times and it's been fun.

The bearing bracket that is shown on top the one with the 4 bolt holes is similar to our Pass side axle you will need to find a shop to press it off the old axle and press it on to the new axle for you and toyota dealers won't do it for you just a FYI....you will have to find a shop or a place that rebuilts axles and ask them to do it for you I had mines done for $20.

I think thats what you were trying to say I got confused when u said u tried to bleed the axles or sumthin and then wanted to change the belt ?? lol

Yes Remy is right, you need to have it pressed into the bearing assembly. Honestly though I've done quite a few Celica axles and all except for one of them has come with the thing already fitted properly in a new casing. I suspect you got a super cheapie remanufactured axle, last one of those I got was so bad I think they just ripped one out of a salvage car and painted it silver, it even came with pre-cracked rubber on the boots. I highly recommend buying new axles as opposed to reman.

You need a large C clamp to compress the caliper, well a very large set of channel lock pliers will work too if you are strong. Just make sure to crack the bleeder or there can be issues(ABS valve damage etc..) You absolutely need to have that bearing in there or your axle will fly apart and beat on your engine block at high speeds, it also must be pressed in evenly or it won't last very long.

Ok well if you were turing the rotors anyways I see why you took em off. I usually use the strut method only if there is no other way to do it, some cars have eccentric bolts in that area and you will mess up the alignment if you loosen them(old habit).

As far as the axle bearing on the passenger side, I was able to just remove the snap ring and the bracket from the old one and put it on the new one(in the bracket of course) without a problem. This won't work I take it?

The bearing that broke was the wheel bearing.

I drove it around my neighborhood last night, and there's definitely some bearing noise that I obviously need to get resolved. Thanks for all the help thusfar!

>


Well, if it fits in there right, then it will be OK some bearings don't have to be pressed in, as long as the fit is snug it's fine, if it is loose it will rattle. Was the bearing nice and tight on the remanufactured axle? did you spin it by hand and was it smooth? If the bearing was good and it fit in just like the old one then your golden.

Try reversing with the steering wheel turned all the way, then try the same thing going forward... make sure to do it for each direction too. If you hear a bunch of crunchy clicking noise then you probably have a bad reman axle in there, from my experience up to 20% of reman axles have to be replaced an additional time. Start with that and then look into the wheel bearing itself.

Well, some mostly good news!

Both axles are fine. Not a single crunch to be heard period.

I sat under my car rotating the wheel on both sides to narrow down the bearing-like sound, and I did. It's between the axle and the dust cover on the wheel side(also where the ABS ring is). The little ring on the axle is warped a little bit inward causing it to rub onto the dust cover.

I cleaned off the insides of the dust covers and blew out some of the metal shavings. There's still the same bearing noise, but I feel a lot better know that it's something mostly minor. I guess I'll order some new dust covers for the heck of it, and be sure to blow out whatever's in there with some compressed air as the rubbing metal wears itself down, unless someone's got another idea.

I notice you mentioned ABS rings, is your car equipped with ABS brakes. If not then you need to remove the rings, they should pop right off if you hit them with a hammer, well you will have to at least pop the axle out of the wheel hub first though.

This post has been edited by Jamchell: Jun 21, 2010 - 8:42 PM

I do have ABS!