Having a local shop take a look at the motor. They told me the motor is:

1) running rich, they dont know why
2) ecu is spitting out a Map Sensor error

They are suggesting I just get the wiring redone, where it is just a simple plug and play. Or I find someone with a working map sensor, and see if its just my map sensor that needs to be replaced.

First of all, wiring is a complete mess. Whoever did the wiring did not solder or even use butt connectors, just electrical taped 2 wires together.

If it's just the map sensor that needs to be replaced, that would be the cheapest option but I would probably run into more problems in the future just because the wiring is horrible.

Question is: What should I do?

(killing myself is not an option)

Best advice is get the harness done by DR Tweak. If your harness is such a mess no matter whether you keep this motor or swap it out for another one you run the risk of an electrical fire which is not cool. Start there which seems to be your biggest issue and once you have a good harness then go through and check for other issues.

is it a 2nd gen or 3rd gen...i know with the 2nd gen they come pig rich from the factory due to the top mount. I put an SAFC and a wideband on and it helped a lot with the way the car runs and drives at different rpm's....but the way your harness sounds, it just as well could be that. take ^ advice and go through that harness really well, and if its that bad take it to someone that knows what there doing. i learned that simple stupid problems like a weird altenator or loose battery terminals will cause problems with these motors. props (lagos) lol..They are very tempermental, but easy to maintain if you know what you are doing...rule out any possiabilities before you jump to the conclusion that it could be this or that and end up spending way more money then you would of had to.

mr20c is a great site that will have anything that your looking for, for the 3s. try a map sensor and see if it works, worst case is you have to re-sell it.

This post has been edited by 95st-celica: Jun 12, 2010 - 3:15 AM

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if your profile is correct, and you have a 2nd gen 3sgte, the map sensor itself will not create a rich condition, it controls the factory boost gauge, is used for fuel cut, and a check for the ECU when you first turn the key. but if your map sensor is not working, IE: bad wiring or unplugged, the code it sets will put you in "safe mode" which will make the car very rich and slow because of the retarted timing.
who did the wiring? if its as bad as you say, i would definetly consiter pulling it out and having it all fixed properly. bad wiring is a fire waiting to happen.
trust me, its no fun watching all your hard work melt to a pile of goo on the side of the road.
if you have some electrical know how, you can trace each wire, and test for continuity, then fix each connection yourself, it just takes time and paitence.
otherwise,
what kind of condition are ignition components in?
o2 sensor?
like was posted above, the 2nd typicly runs rich from the factory, but not so rich that it dont run decently.

thanks for the input

looks like the ic piping wasn't able to hold up to the pressure, and i found a lot of leaks including a significant leak near the bov. had the piping redone and attached a synapse bov (didn't like the way the hks sounded). motor seems to be running a lot better. tends to almost stall when gas is not being applied (hits 200-300rpm), then it jumps back to 1k at idle. hoping to get my hands on a safc and throw her on the dyno and get a real good tune. as of now, the car is sitting because of lack of time/capital. hopefully, when things settle down at work and i'm not running all over the place, i'll be able to give her some more attention.

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You need to recirculate that bov back into the intake between the AFM and the turbo. Its not made to be vented and thats why you are having the stalling issues.

thanks lagos, i'll take a look into that when i have time.

cheers!

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Any long term problems for not recirculating? I am planning on changing my bov, any suggestions?

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A vented bov will cause the problems you are describing in this thread.
The synappse you have is one of the best bovs on the market, it just needs to be recirculated back into the intake for the car not to have these issues that you are describing.

New problem.

Boost gauge says I'm boosting, but the car really isnt accelerating. I hear a lot of noise coming from the BOV (air being sucked in), but the car is not accelerating as hard as it should be/as it has in the past.

Any suggestions?

I had the same problem with that bov. Once lagos told me to recirculate it. My car ran perfect.